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Old 08-02-2012, 04:13 PM
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350 Chevy Timing

I was reading some old posts and came across one that may or may not be relevant to my situation. I have a 350 chevy bored 30 over W/492 heads, flat top pistons, Gm(crane)mechanical lifter cam (459/485 lift) 2800 stall convertor in a 700r4 trans and 342 rear in a 3000lb 85 s-10 Blazer 4x2. I have to set the timing very high to get it to run( timing light seems to be of no value) I now have it as far as the back of the intake will allow and it still wants more. Is the distributor a gear off or is the cam a gear off to the crank and if the cam is off will this eventually damage anything if it is driven more? Thanks

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Old 08-02-2012, 05:21 PM
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You can remove the distributor and turn it clockwise I(I believe) Then turn the motor over by hand or clicking the starter until it falls into the oil pump slot(fully seating it). This should put the distributor in a better position to advance it more. It is probably off by one tooth of the cam. Then I would find top dead center with a piston stop. There are many threads on this. Proper timing is more important now then back in the day since today's gas is poor.
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Old 08-02-2012, 06:56 PM
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You need to verify true TDC on the balancer. Probabily got the wrong timing tab location.
Get a piston stop and find true TDC and correct the timing tab.

That cam does not like a low compression ratio (unless supercharged)
it wants 10:1 to 10.5:1 on premimum gas.

The distributor needs to be recurved. May want as much as 24deg base at idle.
34 to 36 toal at max advance.

Start by correcting the timng tab.
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Old 08-02-2012, 09:57 PM
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Sometimes the aftermarket distributor oil pup drive in the base is to thick and needs to be filled down to fit in the oil drive slot and seat fully. Very common.

Your timing running out of room for twist advance, then re orient the plug wires 18436572 one earlier on the cap. it will allow more/less rotation.

What ever build the mechanical total most like to be fully advanced 34-36 deg by 2500 to 3000 rpm.
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