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Old 05-28-2010, 10:41 AM
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350 clearance for 400 crank

Im wondering where do you have to add clearance to the block at to clear the 3.750 stroke. Is it where the rods where hit on the oil pan area? My local machine shop has took care of it for me before. Its a 90 350 1pc crank. I would like to learn the procedure and do it my self. What type of grinder would you actually use to do the job? Any pics of any builds of where the block has to be clearanced would be nice. Thanks For reading

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Old 05-28-2010, 11:26 AM
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At the bottom of the cylinder where the crank comes around with the connecting rod. usually you cut more on one side of the bank then the other.
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Old 05-28-2010, 12:44 PM
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Connecting rod bolt head and edge of bolt head pad on the rod to cam lobe depending on cam size and rod type, capscrew type rods clear easier as there is no bolt head.

Rod bolt nut or capscrew head to oil pan rail area.

Rod bolt head area to bottom lip of cylinder bore.

I have built 383's were the second two problem areas didn't need any grinding at all, some where only one side of the block needed just a little work, and some that needed work on both sides, some that cleared the bottoms of the cylinders but not the pan rail areas,... just depends on the casting. The Capscrew type rods offer more clearance, and later 1-piece seal blocks also tend to clear easier or need no work at all.

Trial assembly and test fits are the order of the day here.

A double cut tooth carbide burr in a die grinder works the best, followed by cartridge rolls(60-80 grit) if you want a smoother finish but not absolutely necessary, the cutter finish is good enough.

Not at all hard to do, just takes a little time.
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Old 05-28-2010, 12:55 PM
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yes depends on the casting. Alot of times there is more material around the radius so you take more of one bank then the other. I WOULDNT say its not alot of work . Take your piston with no rings on , and a dummy bearing , set up , rotate and see where clearance might be needed.
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Old 05-28-2010, 02:37 PM
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Thanks i was wondering about the rings if i could build the engine without having them and im going to check all clearance issues. Could i check on one bank and see what needs took out then do the remaining cylinders on on side the same, or what im asking could i install number 1,and number 2 piston sbc and rod,crank,and match any clearance issues for the remaining clinders the same on each bank, or will each cylinder be different and require more or less?
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Old 05-28-2010, 02:50 PM
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If it was me i would check them all. remember its a cast thats why some banks have more material. I know alot of guys will do it that way im sure but if it was me i would check them all. No you dont need your rings . Thats why i say its alot of work
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Old 05-28-2010, 03:00 PM
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Ill check them all one at a time,and do it right the first time. Im going to run a stroker rod with cap screws to help. I hate i already installed the cam bearings, but wasnt going to go with a 400 crank at first. How should i handle the metal flakes just blow it out real good with a air hose, and maybe was it down with some soapy water before i build, just dont want to find a piece of metal the hard way like on a bearing
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Old 05-28-2010, 03:25 PM
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Pressure washer, dry dish water soap, lots of tide. Air hose, yes.
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Old 05-29-2010, 02:45 AM
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Don, I know it's easy for me to sit here and spend your money, but if you don't have a set of these, get a set of these....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-5192/
It's the only way you'll get the crud out of the oil galleys.
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Old 05-29-2010, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
Don, I know it's easy for me to sit here and spend your money, but if you don't have a set of these, get a set of these....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-5192/
It's the only way you'll get the crud out of the oil galleys.

Ditto on that! A good set of brushes is a must have for prepping a block.
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