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Old 12-30-2004, 11:09 PM
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350 combo opinion

i just bought a 350 longblock and am going to be tearing it down to get the block magnafluxed and bored 20 over etc...anyway here is my combo so far.. any help will be appreciated this will be mostly a fun car.. not a daily driver so rough idle etc doesnt matter as much to me as if it were a daily driver..

-- Lunati Cam -- Dur @ .050 227*/233* How much compression
Valve Lift .489"/.504" will I probably need for
LSA/ICL 110/105 this cam??
im not sure if you can use roller rockers if you dont have a roller cam?? but if so 1:6.1 comp rockers, new valve sprins (any suggestions on brand?), heads ported/polished, crank balanced, pistons to raise compression enough for the cam, edelbrock rpm intake, holley 650cfm double pumper, high volume oil pump, and as far as heads go... would i be better getting aftermarket or porting/polishing the ones i have? i've heard its better to just get aftermarket ones.. but then wouldnt u have to still get them ported and polished?

oh also 2500 stall would be about right? also running 3.73 gears

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Old 12-30-2004, 11:28 PM
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my choice

You are going to get 100 opinions on this posting.

My choice for a 350 is;
flat top pistons
crane 302 energizer cam Model H06
.500 lift 302 duration
Edelbrock 64 cc heads (no polishing or porting necessary)
This will give you 10.5 to 1 compression
Edelbrock performer rpm intake.
Holley 650 dual pumper with mechanical secondaries.
You will turn 6300 rpm safely and you can go get your groceries with it.
Stamped steel rockers. Don't waste you money on roller rockers.
High volume oil pumps (in my opinion) are for 4 wheel drives unless your going to a 7 quart oil pan. At high rpm you may suck the sump dry.
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Old 12-31-2004, 11:02 AM
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Well you kind of left a big part out in the open. Saying you will port and polish your heads really means nothing as we dont even know which castings you have to begin with.

Youd be better off getting a set of Dart Iron heads (if you plan on keeping your compression under 10:1) as they are great heads and wont require any porting. They will also allow you to run more lift (as they'll have better springs than your stock heads). If you want, or plan on having higher compression, to keep it running on pump gas without worries then go with some aluminum heads. Edelbrock does have some good heads however so do many companies around. Id look into Trickflow and AFR as well. Kind of depends on your budget as well .

Full roller rockers are not a waste of money. Not only do they give you some HP back, but they relieve the valve train of some stress and friction. You do not need to run a roller cam to run roller rockers. However studs, hardened pushrods, and girdles are recommended.

The cam bracketeer suggested is rather large (246 @ .050 / LSA 106) With its duration and LSA its going to move your powerband up quite a bit. You'll need a good bit of stall to launch in its powerband. If you are just looking for a fun car I'd look at a little smaller cam. Something with its powerband more off idle.

BTW what year longblock did you buy?
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Old 12-31-2004, 01:51 PM
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rebuttle

Yes it requires a high stall convertor.
The comp cams model # 12-242-2 is their largest cam without needing a convertor.
.477 in .480 ex lift
268 in 280 ex duration

Roller rockers will give you 5 to 15 extra hp. Which comes out to 5/100ths to 15/100ths in the quarter mile. In my neck of the woods they cost about 350 bucks. Take the spare tire and jack out of the trunk. You'll pick up the same time slip. Its your money.

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Old 01-01-2005, 03:49 AM
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Summit sells full roller rockers for 150-170 I believe. I am running them currently and I like them a lot.

It does come down to a cost/benefit ratio. 350 bucks seems high for the power gained. But for me, at 10 bucks per HP . . . thats not really all that bad .
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Old 01-01-2005, 08:36 AM
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i still have to clean it all down real good.. it was sitting in a barn and is grease caked has leaves in the intake valley.. etc.. lol i wanted it to do a complete rebuild just for the learning experience.. i couldnt read the casting number yet but the heads had GM89 on them.. that mean they were made in 89? if so it would more than likely be a roller cam setup already correct?

if i get the 1:6.1 roller rockers what other changes will have to make? as far as the pushrods.. also what about this cam? lunati 233*/241* duration... .504/.525 lift....lsa 110.. icl 106 rpm range of 2200-6400 i know ill need a stall w/this.. around 2500? be running 3.73 gears w/700r4 w/overdrive i never got a comment on my setup lol.. heads i will probably get the world s/r torquer w/64cc combustion chamber unless when i post the casting number you guys say its a decent head.. i was thinking of changing it to a 383 stroker but im putting this in a 83 nissan 280zx.. and i dont want to have to reinforce the frame etc.. according to how much hp my 350 setup gets i may have to still put a rollcage in it to keep the t-tops from getting twisted up too bad.

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Old 01-01-2005, 08:41 AM
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no

its a chev not a ford. , no roller.
The casting #s for the head are 7 or 8 digit #. You have to take off valve cover to see it. If the lower edge of the head where it bolts to the block is straight across. Its an older head. If its all bumpy and wiggley its a 78 cc smogger. Nothing you really want to dump alot of money into.
As long as you don't put slicks on the car you can pretty much do as you please without twisting the car. But if that car hooks.
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Old 01-01-2005, 09:08 AM
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looks to be 3998998 so no factory heads are worth keeping?

CORRECTION... number is 3998993

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Old 01-01-2005, 09:11 AM
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bad heads

3998993
1968-1979
1.72/1.50 & 1.94/1.50 valves
115-175 horsepower
76 CC Chambers
Intake flow 150.8 CFM
Exhaust flow 91.1 CFM
you want a maximum of 70 cc chambers
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Old 01-01-2005, 11:52 AM
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I bought a nice set of full roller rockers (scorpion) With 7/16 studs for 100.00 off e bay. 7/16 studs you probably wont need stud girdles. ill keep the spare tire out and still use roller rockers I win!
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Old 01-01-2005, 12:34 PM
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american forum

I keep forgetting I'm on an american forum. Being canadian, I have to pay exchange, duty, frieght, and taxes. Price of high perf car parts are considerably higher here.
But 100 US is one hell of a deal. Depending on quality. I am not familiar with Scorpion.

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Old 01-01-2005, 08:26 PM
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my block number is 3970010 ok.. well i pulled the oil pan off today.. lol.. whoever had the motor b4 me didnt tighten a connecting rod cap nut all the way.. guess what happens.. bam rod is all twisted agains the crank piston locks down.. peices fly through oil pan and you get one hell of a scare i'd imagine... the crank looks ok may have to get a pro to look at it. but far as i can see the block is ok once i get the crank out i'll have to inspect the cylinder walls to be sure nothing screwed them up.. if i have to get a new crank do you guys think i should just go w/a 400sbc crank and 5.7" rods? make a stroker.. have to get it bored anyway.. but when i measured it is right on 4.00 (using a tape measure not a caliper) a used 400 crank would work right?? i'd have a screamin engine then.. heh
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Old 01-16-2005, 03:19 AM
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383

I'm not a fan of 383s.
Give me a 350. It's cheap to build.
Or better yet a 400. Why stop at a 383. If I'm going to lay out the extra coin, I want my moneys worth.
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Old 01-17-2005, 03:13 PM
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You have a good block to work with. Take it to a machine shop and have all the tests and inspections done. You'll need to have the crank turned or a new crank depending on if you want to stroke it or not. Get some suggestions on a competent machine shop and talk to them about what you want to do.

383's aren't that expensive to build but it really depends on how much money you have/are willing to throw into this engine. Generally I take the projected figure of a project, double it, and then ask myself if I can afford it. Projects usually run be double what I first figured .

Good luck.
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