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Old 10-09-2006, 10:54 AM
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350 convering to a 383

i wanted to know if converting my 2 bolt main 350 from my 79 corvette to a 383 would be a good idea and also how much power would i be looking at. also besides the crankshaft and the pistons rings and rods what else should i have to change and do you know where i can find complete kits at afordible prices thanks a lot for the help.

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Old 10-09-2006, 11:38 PM
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Well I dont know if its a good idea for you or not, thats completely up to you but a 2 bolt will make just as good a 383 as a 4 bolt. I would use ARP main studs though, very cheap insurance. You can buy complete reciprocating assemblys from Scat, Eagle and a host of others suppliers. You dont need to change your rods, they are 5.7" which is what you want for the stroker, but if you buy a complete assembly then you can sell your old stuff. What you,ll need? everything for the short block, you,re rebuilding it so dont cut corners.
Ask around and find a good reputable machine shop in your area or if you have to travel to get to one then do it, it will be worth it. Power differences with the same equipment will be around 30-35 hp. I suggest you read every article you can find on building a chevy engine, there tons of stuff on the enternet, look up RyansStrokerCombo.com, lots of engine combos and dyno tests, pick the one that suits your driving style, good luck.....Dave
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Old 10-10-2006, 07:33 PM
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We have built a lot of 383's over the years and we machine a lot of 2 blolt blocks for splayed caps as we have seen what happens when 2 bolt caps are over powered in most cases when they are disassembled the bearings look bad due to the caps walking in the registers.

Most of the 383's we have built and ran on the dyno and we have used the Vortec heads they have made around 500 foot pounds of torque and with out good caps I feel these engine we have built would not be as reliable with stock 2 bolt caps.

Here is an interesting link to look at when you have time.http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38173

Hes is a pic of a block that made just over 40 horse and after several races it started loosing oil pressure we installed splayed caps on the block and the customer turned the crank and istalled it back in the car and so far the engine has run fine and the oil pressure is fine and these caps were about welded to the block when it came in from N.Y. and it did have a studs as studs don't make the caps any stronger as they are still a grey cast iron cap.
[IMG][/IMG]

Here is a pic of a block we put billet caps on and straped the rear main cap but on the 383 engines we build if we can't find a 2482 cap block that sonic tests good we will install just the 3 center billet caps as these don't walk around like a stock 2 bolt cap and these caps pull on the pan rails as well.
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 10-10-2006, 07:39 PM
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And all the 383's we have built we have used the 6 inch rods as it frees up some friction in the engine and is alot easier on the cylinder waslls and a crank that is machined for a 6 inch rod can be internally balance with no problem and the pistons are much lighter as well

Here is a link to a engine we built last year for a customer.http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...highlight=DYNO
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Old 10-10-2006, 09:40 PM
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With all due respect to CNC....I,m very sure you guys build a heck of a race engine and yes they require all the machine work and equipment as you stated. I agree with you 100% BUT... I,m assuming this guys 79 vette is not a race car but a daily driver street machine that will never see 6000 rpm let alone 8500. Good machine work and ARP main studs will work just fine for the street. No need for splayed 4 bolt caps or 6" rods unless he wants to spend the extra money for them. Theres probably thousands of hard charging 383,s with 2 bolt caps and 5.7 rods that get along just fine.......on the street. Now if you,re talking a SERIOUS street engine with a big roller, lots of compression and a big hit of nitrous then its a different story.
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Old 10-11-2006, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 327NUT
With all due respect to CNC....I,m very sure you guys build a heck of a race engine and yes they require all the machine work and equipment as you stated. I agree with you 100% BUT... I,m assuming this guys 79 vette is not a race car but a daily driver street machine that will never see 6000 rpm let alone 8500. Good machine work and ARP main studs will work just fine for the street. No need for splayed 4 bolt caps or 6" rods unless he wants to spend the extra money for them. Theres probably thousands of hard charging 383,s with 2 bolt caps and 5.7 rods that get along just fine.......on the street. Now if you,re talking a SERIOUS street engine with a big roller, lots of compression and a big hit of nitrous then its a different story.
We deal with a couple hundred blocks a year as there are quite a few that have been sent us that have been run on the street and strip with caps not qyite that bad but the caps have been moving on the block.

Now you add 3.750 stroke crank to a 2 bolt block which causes a lot more side load on the caps the a 3.480 crank and now add a lot more torque and thise caps will move.

And most of the 383 engines we build have around 500 foot pounds of torque and thes are every day drivers and with that much torque I reall don't think that a 2 bolt caps are as reliable as a set of 2482 center caps or billet replacement caps or even splayed center caps.

We have a good reputation for the blocks we sell and and the engines we build as we don't try to cut corners on our engines. As we seen maybe 10 or 12 blocks a years in this condition because the proper caps and machine was not done in the first place.

Look in the old GM catolog and on the pol Bowtie blocks that came with 2 bolt caps was only rated at 350 horse and I am sure that they have done there research and home work on what works and is DEPENDABLE and know what the horse power limits are on the blocks but I know there are some guys that are smarter then the engineers at GM LOL. I know we see it all the time like the guy who built the engine in the pic I posted. And we get a lot of calls and emails on this subject.

Not to be a Smart a-$-$ here but do you do the type of work we do at our shop and have hands on experiance as we work with some top engineers in this feild and we deal with a lot of top shops in the U.S and Canada. If some askes me what block will work for there application I let them know and so far we don't get blocks back at our shop that look like the one in the pic I posted and the customers are happy. DO IT ONCE RIGHT.

Any SBC we build that has more then 400 foot pounds of torque or horse power we use blocks that sonic test good and caps that will handle the load on both street and strip and circle track engines we build. As we don' try to out engineer the guys at GM.
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Old 10-11-2006, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
As we don' try to out engineer the guys at GM.
That means building it cheaper and taking chances.


Most street engines don't have enough tire to make it a problem. 500lbs of torque on a typical 8" tire with greasy pavement? Most of these street engine don't get driven often enough so they seem last longer as well.

Spending more on a block and machine also means you get more life or rebuilds out of said block. Saving you money later down the road. Makes the block worth more to resell too.

Most guys's over estimate the engine power levels too.
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Old 10-11-2006, 10:33 PM
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CNC.....no I,m not taking it that way at all nor do I want to get into a p----- match with you or anyone else. Let me ask you this, how much money do you charge for a fully prepped splayed 4 bolt bare block ready to assemble, like the units you eluded to earlier?
And to answer your question... no I dont own, work or hang out in a machine shop, probably 95 % of the guys on this site dont either. And no, I dont build race engines, I dont have the experience or technical skills to attempt one.
I,m retired, just turned 60 (geez) and have been around cars sense I was a kid. Most guys dont have unlimited funds to build street engines, at least I never did and thats why I told the vette owner that his 2 bolt would work for a street motor that may see an occasional blast up to 5500. I,m sticking to my guns, still want to know how much for your block though and how many guys on this forum could afford it........Dave
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Old 10-11-2006, 11:15 PM
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hey, I'm in a p------g match w/ dgcantrellsr, he started it!!!! But seriously, what is the best way to keep the caps from shifting? I've tried peening the block with a chisel prior to machining to snug them up a bit, but I just don't know how secure this is. I've considering building them up a bit with a weld and milling them down but am concerned about the integrity of the cap. whats your solution?
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Old 10-12-2006, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 327NUT
CNC.....no I,m not taking it that way at all nor do I want to get into a p----- match with you or anyone else. Let me ask you this, how much money do you charge for a fully prepped splayed 4 bolt bare block ready to assemble, like the units you eluded to earlier?
And to answer your question... no I dont own, work or hang out in a machine shop, probably 95 % of the guys on this site dont either. And no, I dont build race engines, I dont have the experience or technical skills to attempt one.
I,m retired, just turned 60 (geez) and have been around cars sense I was a kid. Most guys dont have unlimited funds to build street engines, at least I never did and thats why I told the vette owner that his 2 bolt would work for a street motor that may see an occasional blast up to 5500. I,m sticking to my guns, still want to know how much for your block though and how many guys on this forum could afford it........Dave
In most cases we try to find a 2482 cap block that sonic test good and if we install 4 bolt repalcement caps on a 4 bolt block is 172.00 for the Pro-Gram caps and 125.00 to line bore and 160.00 to line hone.

If we build an engine and it going to make over 400 horse we don't care if its a street peice, drag or circle track engine it gets the proper caps and there never seems to be a problem and we stand buy our guns on this issue as we have been in this bussiness for 32 years now and over the years we have seen what works and what don't work. We have broken 2 bolt caps here and some that look like the ones in the pics I posted and broken hyper pistons and after thay look at the peices that were used and failed they go with what we recomend.

The reason the guy in the pic had problems with his caps was because some one blirted out that the 2 bolt block they have would be fine for what they are doing as this was from a guy that does not do this for a living and I am sure if they were still having problems I would have got a call by now but after installing splayed center caps I really don't think they will see those caps welded to the block.

And 99% of the 383's we build they have around 500 foot pounds of torque and around 455 horse on the engine dyno and we use hydraulic cams in these engines and they rurn under 6500 RPN but to get these kind of numbers on the dyno it takes a fair amount of money and good reliable parts to do this.

The guy in this link http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...highlight=DYNO spent some good money on his 383 and he some of his friends have 383 engines that he wasn't really impressed with and by the way we have opened the eyes or his friends what an engine can do if it is built right.

Guy that bring in a block in the shop we sonic test it first clean and mag it line hone with a new ARP bolt kit square deck it bore it and hone with a torque plate and stroker clearance if needed and clearance the lifter bores for 595.00 and this seems to be a great deal as we do a lot for other smaller shops in the area as well. And the block work is done in a HAAS 4-axis CNC machining center as it hard to compete with this machine and it takes less then 45 minutes to machine a block like I have mentioned earlier.
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Old 10-12-2006, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaSouthWon
hey, I'm in a p------g match w/ dgcantrellsr, he started it!!!! But seriously, what is the best way to keep the caps from shifting? I've tried peening the block with a chisel prior to machining to snug them up a bit, but I just don't know how secure this is. I've considering building them up a bit with a weld and milling them down but am concerned about the integrity of the cap. whats your solution?
The problem is there is very little surface area in the register for the caps to set in. Now it the 350 two bolt block had center caps like the 400 block that were that wide it would be a much better peice.

The old 327 block had 2 bolt mains but only had 3.250 stroke and when bulding a 383 that has a a 1/2 an inch more stroke they side load the caps more and those caps will flex as guys try to use studs and girdles on the blocks but these devices don't make the cap stronger as it is still a grey cast cap in a tiny register. Whe you start putting stroe and HP to to bolt caps they become very unstable in the registers

Check this link out as ther is a lot of great info.http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38173
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