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Old 11-01-2006, 11:12 AM
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350 Crank & Rods Question

I Gota Plan (I think) I want to have a set of vortec heads machined with 202 160s and machine the valve stems and maybe have some p&p work at a speed shop that has a flow bench (head machine work & p&p at a local speed shop). I have been offered a deal on a GM 350 Forged 1182 crankshaft (cranks fresh and is 10 10) and a set of reconditioned X rods for $250 (rods have stock GM fasteners) is this a fair deal on crank and rods ?

I'm going to buy parts as I can afford, an build when I have everything. is this crank & rods a fair start for $250 ?


I want to duplicate this dyno build
combo 109
http://ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos15.html
Displacement: 355 cu. in.
Carburetor: Speed Demon 750 and a 1 1/2 in. spacer
Heads: GM L31 Vortec
Intake: Edelbrock Super Victor single plane
Camshaft: GMPP HOT hydraulic roller, with 0.525/0.525 in. of lift and 218?/228? of duration @ 0.050 in. of lift.
Exhaust: Hooker 1 5/8 in. headers with Flowmaster 2 1/2 mufflers
Pistons: stock
Rods: stock
Crank: GM
Ignition: Stinger electronic with MSD 6
Timing: 32?
Comp. Ratio: 9.75:1

MAX HP: 422 @ 5700
MAX Torque: 418 @ 5000

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Old 11-01-2006, 03:13 PM
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A forged GM crank will take a lot more beating than your combo. Im not sure what the x rods are but if youre talking about pink rods or LT1 rods as they are also known as I would say they are fine too. 250 $ for 8 rods and a forged crank? Sounds good to me IF they are in good condition
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Old 11-01-2006, 03:48 PM
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Machine shop around here get $65 for a stock 3.48 crank. Rods are $10 a piece.

A Edelbrock RPM intake would have been a better choice.
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Old 11-02-2006, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pianoman
A forged GM crank will take a lot more beating than your combo. I?m not sure what the x rods are but if you?re talking about pink rods or LT1 rods as they are also known as I would say they are fine too. 250

yup the X rods are LT1 or pink rods. just wasn't sure if $250 was to much, and the rods are reconditioned but prob need arp bolts correct ?

any other advice ?

Mustangsaly
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Old 11-02-2006, 07:38 AM
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350 crank & rods

Hi,
imo the crank & rods are a good deal, I wouldn't waste money on porting & polishing, (it's a street engine) when you can do it yourself, get yourself an old head & a head porting kit then practice polishing the bowls & opening up the space around the valves a little, go to that machine shop & watch them & ask questions, they will probably show you how to do it, ( you know how to get guys to do things for ya, it's in a womans DNA) then do your own, polish the exhaust runners, gasket match the runner openings on the intake side.
I personally would use Edelbrock aluminum heads, & just bolt them on, better heads & no hassle, price about the same.
Take care & good luck,
rich
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Old 11-02-2006, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustangsaly
yup the X rods are LT1 or pink rods. just wasn't sure if $250 was to much, and the rods are reconditioned but prob need arp bolts correct ?

any other advice ?

Mustangsaly
Correct. Get ARP bolts but make sure the crank end of the rod is checked with those bolts. Often you need to hone the rod.
Unless you plan to run a minimum 2500 rpm converter I would consider a dual plane intake. However I run a Weiand TeamG on my 355 and its working perfectly, but I also have a Hughes 10" converter, 3.42 gears and low wheels (26")
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Old 11-02-2006, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richard stewart 3rd
(it's a street engine) when you can do it yourself, get yourself an old head & a head porting kit then practice polishing the bowls & opening up the space around the valves a little, go to that machine shop & watch them & ask questions, they will probably show you how to do it, ( you know how to get guys to do things for ya, it's in a womans DNA) rich


I'm starting with salvage yard Vortecs, Hey I'm a 45yr old man, married with 4 children 25/24/17/14 and 2 grandchildren







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Old 11-02-2006, 02:51 PM
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kids

Hang in there, I'm 64, got 4 kids, 10 grandkids, and three and a half great grand kids. Just pray they turn as well as mine have so far.
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Old 11-02-2006, 03:06 PM
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I would take the crank. The rods don't sound "reconditioned" if they have the old bolts in them. I also don't know why everyone thinks "X" rods are anything special, but you have to figure that ARP rod bolts are going to cost you about $45, plus $100-$125 to have them installed and resized.
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Old 11-02-2006, 04:25 PM
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The rods and crank does not sound like a bad deal and if the rods are not the ones that are pre 80's as those rods had very little material around the rod bolts as the later rods that have the big stamp pad are the better ones to use as I believe that GM up dated there rods in the early 80's up to the PM rods.

Years ago when we had to use OEM rods in some of the circle track engines we built we never changed the rod bolts as we have seen on some after changing the rod bolts too ARP or SPS that they have a lot of interfearance causing some cracking around the rod bolts after a year of racing and after we so that we never changed the rod bolts and we cured the problems that we saw in that area and we never seen a stock rod bolt break so far.

Now there a lot better rods out there then the stock rods as the street performance engines we built and engine kits we sell we have been using the Scat forged rods and cranks and so far no problems and on the circle track engines we build we have been using the higher end rods like the Crowers and some Manley rods with good results.

We might see 1 or 2 sets of stock rods a year to resize and check for bend a twist which is over looked by many shops out there that recondition rods.
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Old 11-02-2006, 05:09 PM
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[QUOTE=CNC BLOCKS N/E]The rods and crank does not sound like a bad deal and if the rods are not the ones that are pre 80's as those rods had very little material around the rod bolts as the later rods that have the big stamp pad are the better ones to use as I believe that GM up dated there rods in the early 80's up to the PM rods.QUOTE]





(I read it 3 Xs but still not sure) are the pre 80s GM X rods better or are the later 80s GM PM rods better ?

Thanks

Mustangsaly
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Old 11-02-2006, 06:57 PM
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[QUOTE=Mustangsaly]
Quote:
Originally Posted by CNC BLOCKS N/E
The rods and crank does not sound like a bad deal and if the rods are not the ones that are pre 80's as those rods had very little material around the rod bolts as the later rods that have the big stamp pad are the better ones to use as I believe that GM up dated there rods in the early 80's up to the PM rods.QUOTE]





(I read it 3 Xs but still not sure) are the pre 80s GM X rods better or are the later 80s GM PM rods better ?

Thanks

Mustangsaly
The pre GM 80's rods some are the X and O rods but do not have the extra material around the rod bolts and the 80's and up to the mid 90's rods were the better one in my opinion as GM changed there design for a reason and the late 90's to present are PM rods which we stay away from PM rods and the standard Mellings oil pumps as there gears are Powdered metal as well and have had calls on the gears breaking.

Hope this info has helped.
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Old 11-02-2006, 07:20 PM
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[QUOTE=CNC BLOCKS N/E]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustangsaly

The pre GM 80's rods some are the X and O rods but do not have the extra material around the rod bolts and the 80's and up to the mid 90's rods were the better one in my opinion as GM changed there design for a reason and the late 90's to present are PM rods which we stay away from PM rods and the standard Mellings oil pumps as there gears are Powdered metal as well and have had calls on the gears breaking.

Hope this info has helped.




Thanks you are/were a help ! butt it sounds like the steel crank & rods deal fell through, as he had a nice trade offer for some aftermarket heads. I said do it.






Mustangsaly
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