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Old 05-07-2002, 10:42 AM
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Red face 350 ENGINE

HELP!!!!!
I am not a street racer nor do i take on any car that revs up at me. I am the proud owner of a 1982 chev p/u. I bought it several yrs ago from a friend. anyways, ive recently sprayed new paint on it with ghost flames, its sitting on some old 10'cragars w/295-50s. My problem is that i run a stock 350 engine. I am mechanically inclined and i am good at trouble shooting and fixing it. I am good at body work too. My problem is i dont know much about specs on how to get more power out of my engine. I want more muscle to it, and i want to get that muscle thump out of it. Ive asked around and all i get is "throw a cam in it" well, it already has one, if it didnt it wouldnt run. Can someone please give me some specs on what i can do to get more out of my engine. What size cam should i put in it, and what all do i need to match up to the cam. I really dont want to put new pistons and all that in it, but i want to add enough to it where i can leave my 295/50s on the street. Ive put in a new exhaust system, including headers, flowmasters and new pipes front to rear. I still need to get that grunt/thump out of it. Someone please tell me what size cam i can put in it, and what i can expect out of it, i know a cam can and will not do all of it. so please share some of your expertise and ideas with me. thanks in advance.

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Old 05-07-2002, 12:55 PM
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i could sit here all day and throw cam specs at you, but the best thing you could do for a trouble free system is order a power pack from edelbrock through jegs or summit. this includes a dyno-tested matched set including intake,cam,lifters, and sometimes a carburetor. it's the easiest way to more power. for serious power you must calculate the volumetric efficiency for your engine. after that, get a carburetor and cam thats just slightly larger and you shouldn't have a nasty cam lope at idle and it should run like a top.
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Old 05-07-2002, 02:00 PM
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well.... if texas emmisions are as strict as californias, i would make sure you get a "50 state emmisions approved" cam, if you get a summit or jegs catalog, look in there for a chart that shows what type of cam you need. i know my new summit catalog has that in it.

like the middspecauto said,get a power pack deal, this way you know that your valve train is desighned to work with your cam.

GOODLUCK!
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Old 05-07-2002, 08:32 PM
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last I knew Texas is one of the more leanient emission states. however, the powerpak plan does sound to be fairly wise
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Old 05-07-2002, 10:10 PM
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Throw a set of performance heads on it. You can add 40 to 80 hp or more that way, more than most other modifications, and dollar for dollar, about the most effective. What good is a hot cam, carb or intake if the engine can't breathe properly? You can get 'em as cheap as a couple hundred bucks each for new or near new aftermarket ones (some guy on this board swears by some kind of heads called "Aero", I don't know them myself), or pay maybe $50 and up at your local U-Pull-a-Part Auto Salvage yard if you know what to look for (buy a crossover or interchange manual so you know what to look for), and find some good stock Camel-hump heads (read up on these kind of heads on the internet, just do a search). The heads should have 2.02 inch intake valves, 1.60 inch exhaust valves, and you can throw 'em on in a single weekend. You won't have to touch your bottom end (pistons & stuff, and you should be one happy trucker when you are done. And don't forget the silicone sealer on the ends of the intake manifold when you reinstall it(ruuber end seals alone don't seal very well at all)! Good luck, and y'all come back and tell us what you've done, afterwards, OK?
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Old 05-08-2002, 11:26 AM
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unless gonzalez already has good castings on the heads, if you throw too damn much at it at one time you'll be sorry later, without a bottom end he'll be losing power with huge port heads.
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Old 05-08-2002, 09:55 PM
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I agree that breathin is important for an engine,afterall aint it just one big air pump? The only thing is that 85% of the folks on the road today would never be able to tell the difference between a 2.02 and a 1.94 in any street application. I'm thinkin that for a bone stock engine, a good high power RV hyd cam would bring Gonzolazes engine to life enuf to get him wantin more
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Old 05-09-2002, 06:36 AM
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THANKS A BUNCH EVERYONE, I WILL TAKE ALL OF THE ABOVE INTO CONSIDERATION AND WILL TRY AND APPLY ALL INTO MY LITTLE 350 STOCK AND TRY AND CREATE A MONSTER OUT OF IT. I WILL KEEP YOU GUYS POSTED, *** WE ALL KNOW ALL PROJECTS TAKE TIME AND MONEY, TIME I HAVE, MONEY COMES IN BUT IN 2WEEK INTERVALS, AND THE WIFE SKIMS OFF THE TOP. I GUESS IN A COUPLE OF MONTHS, I WILL HAVE IT FINISHED. THANKS AGAIN. ANYMORE ADVISE I CAN GET IS WELCOME.
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Old 05-09-2002, 08:43 AM
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Gonzalez: Probably the hottest deal for a chev 350 is to buy a set of L31 vortec heads directly from Chevy ($430), a set of self aligning rockers, the proper intake from Edelbrock, a 650 or 750 cfm carb. You can add a comp cams XE268H hydraulic roller cam and it will work with your stock converter. You say you don't want to change pistons. This combination is based on 64cc heads, so you will have to take a careful look at what you have now to be sure your compression ratio and head quench area is acceptable. But pistons are cheap if you would need to replace them. With this combination built to 9.5:1, and the parts you already have, you will be able to smoke em up all the way down the block. The L31 vortec heads were designed as truck heads and therefore are well suited to moving a pickup (fast) if built properly. Easily 125 hp more than stock.
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Old 05-09-2002, 12:27 PM
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I APPRECIATE THE ADVISE F-1RODDER, I SURE WILL LOOK FOR THEM HEADS AND TRY THE COMBO YOU MENTIONED ABOVE. COUPLE OF QUESTIONS THOUGH. DO I JUST GO TO MY LOCAL CHEV DEALER AND ORDER THE HEADS? AND HOW DO I FIND OUT WHAT THE PROPER INTAKE WOULD BE?
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Old 05-09-2002, 05:18 PM
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I suggest you order the heads from Scoggins Dickey Chevrolet. They have a website and they deal in a lot of mail order chevy race and preformance parts. When cast in aluminum, they are known as "Fastburn". I would order the intake from either Jeggs or Summit. Scoggins Dickey would probably sell it also, but I think the price would be better from the one of the others. The intake requires a special gasket, order that from Scoggins as well.

You could cruise the junk yards to find the heads and rockers for half the price, but since they are so inexpensive new, I would spend the money for peace of mind.

Get the cam diectly from CompCams and order their Magnum self aligning roller rockers and lifter kit. I believe that the stock L31 springs will work with the cam, but you may consder buying the springs that Comp cams recommends.

If you do this right, I have seen a 350 motor built to these specs in Chevy High Perfomance magazine that ran the dino at 425hp!! You like those numbers? I have built this motor as a 383 stroker and it makes absolutely massive torque. I can hardly touch the throttle and the rear will light up.

Have fun!
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Old 05-09-2002, 08:33 PM
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Tell me more about L31 vortec heads! If they were designed as truck heads, doesn't that mean they have tight runners? For lower down torque? In what way are they different than bone-stockers, anyhow? Why not use some old 283 heads, wtih bigger valves, if you want tight and narrow runners? This may sound like heresy, but these questions need to be asked. I am in sales and marketing and advertising myself, and know that what you read ain't always the way things REALLY are, especially when it comes to "performance" stuff!
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Old 10-02-2002, 05:34 PM
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Hi i am putting a vortec 350 in my 1975 corvette the only thing i dont know is what cam is best to use for the swap, and what valve springs do i use, also what manifold is best? (edelbrock vortec performer?)
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Old 10-02-2002, 05:53 PM
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[QUOTE] Tell me more about L31 vortec heads! If they were designed as truck heads, doesn't that mean they have tight runners? For lower down torque? In what way are they different than bone-stockers, anyhow? Why not use some old 283 heads, wtih bigger valves, if you want tight and narrow runners? This may sound like heresy, but these questions need to be asked. I am in sales and marketing and advertising myself, and know that what you read ain't always the way things REALLY are, especially when it comes to "performance" stuff!

The reason why the L-31 Vortec works well, is because they flow alot of air, AND they have relatively small (170 CC ) Runners. This is the name of the game, sure a huge 220 CC intake runner will flow alot of air, but you sacrifice airflow velocity with big runners, and on the street high velocity equates to more torque, and the good flow of the vortec will make good horsepower upstairs also.
It's all in the combination of parts. I built a 377 with TPI, and bolted on a set of 215 CC Darts, and the thing didn't run for ****. I put the worked over 350 TPI heads back on it, and it hauled. Why? the engine was built to run 5500 RPM with the TPI and cam I ran, and the TPI heads complimented my combination of parts. If I wanted to use the big heads, I would have needed to change induction, cam and probably rearend gears to take advantage of the high winding heads.
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Old 10-03-2002, 07:07 AM
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NAIRB is right. Heads with big intake cfm numbers and big valves are designed to generate horsepower at higher rpm levels (5500-8000). Thus you need higher lift type cams to make these heads work best (a big roller for example). Also, with higher valve lift and rpm levels, you need high quality valve train components and bottom end components. A good example of low rpm horsepower with a small cam and small intake runner/valve size heads is the new Z28's and Trans Am's. Over 300hp without turning over 5500 rpm. Even though these low rpm motors run strong, it's kind of special to pass someone with a screaming small block at 7200 rpm with some really low restrictive duals.
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