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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2013, 11:01 AM
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I have to doubt very much that it is the starter giving up. I've got a 388 with 10.7 SCR and used the oem starter on it until I had to pull the flexplate. Then I changed to a $75.00 mini starter from Speedway. Neither starter ever gave me any trouble. Your cables are too light, have bad or weak connections, or you have a spot of high resistance somewhere.

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Old 02-03-2013, 07:00 AM
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it's not the heat problem...the engine being so load on the starter.....that's why I think about needing high torque on....and there is much room arround the starter area.....thx for the caddy.. even the headres is equpped....will see if there is a need sure will get one

Thanks

Last edited by Jaykobo; 02-03-2013 at 07:12 AM.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaykobo View Post
it's not the heat problem...the engine being so load on the starter.....that's why I think about needing high torque on....and there is much room arround the starter area.....thx for the caddy.. even the headres is equpped....will see if there is a need sure will get one

Thanks
I would run some #4 or larger cable, grind and polish all connections and grounding spots. Make certain of good solid ground between frame/body/engine block. I still don't believe it's the starter. 10:1 SCR is not that much for an OEM starter to handle.
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:04 AM
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it's 10.5 CR........I think the KB climer piston...when it getting tight to the cylinder wall....extended with the heat as the tech tell me....it's the first start for the engine and need to be trained....I just run it totally 24hr.....I belive the engine will work much better after it's trained and turn easily

and take a round with it slowly for 30 km...........some told me the timing....and I adjust it ....sure it work greater but the starter the same.....also the ICM ...was bad and I change it with Dyno one from summit

Davis Unified Ignition Dyna-Modules 000444 - SummitRacing.com


it's miss fire the engine and make it shut off....I replace it with cheap used one from the JY... 10 $us and work fine...but the part not reliable.


and I read a lot talking about cables....I check it for worn,cut,corrosion,heat and test it with clamp meter.... .it's ok....even though I bought new cables from local shop....the same

I replace the starter with AC delco remunfactured....the same



I have 3 engines in my home.....I but the old starter on stock 305 engine working great with the same cables....but on the first one....slowly

the starter working great when the battery full charged 13.4 volt.......but once the drop to 12.75...it's start working weak.....when it's 12.2 V the starter almost stop....I changed the battery with higher amper "the stock was 73A I bought 78A......work little bit better...so I finally decide the starter is the problem

so I,m sure it's the starter.......sorry for taking long.....now all is fine only the starter
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:20 AM
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Jaykobo,what is your first language? please do a load test on your battery
consider an ignition kill switch if the engine is hard to crank due to high static spark advance.
do a draw test on the starter.
do a load test on your battery using your cables if the battery is good.
Do a draw test with your starter using your cables,all to make sure the parts work together.
Is you battery in the stock location?
Put a torque wrench on your engine to measure how hard it is to rotate your engine.
Do a starter motor draw test with the ignition disconnected.

do some math
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:49 AM
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oh yes....I try all....and sorry for my bad language...it's the 2ed language

I didn't check the Amp draw.....just the voltage it's drop to 11.5V to 10.8 while crancking

the battery 100% good..I mean the new one ...and the battery is still in the stock location

I do the torque turn it's reach 110 ft.lbs when it's in compression stroke....but not exactly about the # but not higher than 115ft.lbs

I,m away from the car now so I just work on it on my off days .....ok


thanks for helping man
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaykobo
I didn't check the Amp draw.....just the voltage it's drop to 11.5V to 10.8 while crancking...
I'm not sure if I'm reading this right, but the battery should have more than 11.5V at rest. 11.5V is basically a dead battery.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:47 AM
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I'm not sure if I'm reading this right, but the battery should have more than 11.5V at rest. 11.5V is basically a dead battery.
really!!!!this is the new one...and have warranty on it and I bought it 2 weeks ago....XP...I will recheck the voltage again and check my ampers too this off day....my off only in thursday and friday.....will check it


I already bought the starter...it's good for the OEM starter to live 20 years I think.....is the torque is reading is normal?about 110ft.lbs??
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Old 02-03-2013, 01:05 PM
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hi......I just call the battery loacl dealer


this drop is normal for all batteries in Asia........the USA battery is powerful that's why it's not drop much man


if it drop less than 11V while cranking.....it need rechared or replace



but more ...it's ok...................why this diffrence even in battery???

and he told me....the Rocket,Voltage battries in Asia are the same

I have now Korean battery....and I ask brother to check dad car..11.5v while crancking...the same drop...so I think USA battery build for harsh weather
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Old 02-03-2013, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaykobo View Post
hi......I just call the battery loacl dealer


this drop is normal for all batteries in Asia........the USA battery is powerful that's why it's not drop much man


if it drop less than 11V while cranking.....it need rechared or replace



but more ...it's ok...................why this diffrence even in battery???

and he told me....the Rocket,Voltage battries in Asia are the same

I have now Korean battery....and I ask brother to check dad car..11.5v while crancking...the same drop...so I think USA battery build for harsh weather
IDK about the diff between an Asian and an American battery, but even my small 12V lawnmower battery would be dead at 11.5V. Not talking about while the engine is being cranked, I'm talking about the battery at rest after the surface charge is removed.

The way a wet cell battery is configured, I don't see how it could be built to have less voltage regardless of where it made, unless the value of a volt is different there than here. Which I can't see happening, either. But who knows- stranger things have happened I suppose.

Last edited by cobalt327; 02-03-2013 at 01:16 PM.
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Old 02-03-2013, 01:12 PM
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North American batteries are 12.6 volts.This includes Canada,United States and Mexico
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:11 PM
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11.5 volts WHILE CRANKING is fine. If you dip to low 10s or lower you have trouble. Nothing wrong at all with 11.5 volts under full load.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2013, 10:26 PM
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If "I didn't check the Amp draw.....just the voltage it's drop to 11.5V to 10.8 while crancking" means the CRANKING voltage is between 11.5 and 10.8, that might be OK. If this is saying it starts out at 11.5 AT REST and drops from there when cranking, it's not OK.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:55 AM
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yes.....in the rest it's 12.75V ....I already bought the starter......and will see what happen with the new one.....this all will be checked this thrusday......I will replay if the problem is fixed
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:29 AM
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Possibility that you don't have enough piston/bore clearance and the motor is nearly seizing. If that is the case you'll be destroying your pistons and bores. Maybe your ring end gaps are too tight, also?
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