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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2013, 06:39 AM
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Gap is 30 for the first ring......16 for the 2ed and 3th......

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2013, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaykobo View Post
Gap is 30 for the first ring......16 for the 2ed and 3th......
Someone's running KB's.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaykobo View Post
it's 10.5 CR........I think the KB climer piston...when it getting tight to the cylinder wall....extended with the heat as the tech tell me....it's the first start for the engine and need to be trained....I just run it totally 24hr.....I belive the engine will work much better after it's trained and turn easily

and take a round with it slowly for 30 km...........some told me the timing....and I adjust it ....sure it work greater but the starter the same.....also the ICM ...was bad and I change it with Dyno one from summit

Davis Unified Ignition Dyna-Modules 000444 - SummitRacing.com

it's miss fire the engine and make it shut off....I replace it with cheap used one from the JY... 10 $us and work fine...but the part not reliable.

and I read a lot talking about cables....I check it for worn,cut,corrosion,heat and test it with clamp meter.... .it's ok....even though I bought new cables from local shop....the same

I replace the starter with AC delco remunfactured....the same

I have 3 engines in my home.....I but the old starter on stock 305 engine working great with the same cables....but on the first one....slowly

the starter working great when the battery full charged 13.4 volt.......but once the drop to 12.75...it's start working weak.....when it's 12.2 V the starter almost stop....I changed the battery with higher amper "the stock was 73A I bought 78A......work little bit better...so I finally decide the starter is the problem

so I,m sure it's the starter.......sorry for taking long.....now all is fine only the starter
The little appreciated wire that runs from the ignition switch to the solenoid by way of several connectors can also show up as what appears to be a starter problem. It gets old, loose, corroded, etc. reducing the voltage on the solenoid that is located atop the starter motor. This thing has two jobs on a GM it switches a set of contactor lugs that connects the battery bus cable to the starter. It also moves the starter pinion gear into contact with the ring gear at the same time.

If it is not receiving full voltage to the solenoid terminal it will not make a solid enough perhaps not even contact with the contactor terminals which will result in the motor turning slowly if at all, or may be unstable where it runs fine one time and not at another time. This condition can also be caused by dirty, burnt or otherwise damaged contacts of the contactor lugs themselves.

A test for weak power being applied to the solenoid is to jumper that small terminal on the solenoid directly to the battery, if it spins the starter hard every time you connect it youíre onto the problem, it not itís back to square one.

If this has the large old fashion starter on it, it can be replaced by the newer permanent magnet type which suck a lot less power off the battery as these only have armature coils no electro field magnets to take power as well. This will also provide some air space between the motor and headers.

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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2013, 01:35 PM
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Sorry for late ansewer guys...was busy

the problem was fixed ......the new starter fix the problem

Thanks guys for your help all
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