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350 high starter choice?

10K views 33 replies 7 participants last post by  Jaykobo 
#1 ·
Hi all:)


I have 350 TBI engine with CR 10.5 cadillac RWD 1990

when the engine warm it's hard to crank as and looks like a dead battery..I replace it with new higher AMPs....it's help little but the problem is still

the starter is OEM GM and :rolleyes:...I bought another OEM and do the same



I think it's need high torqe starter:D


so which brand offer good new good starter.....I found many and don't know which to buy:drunk:


my engine have full length headrs.....and want one fit
 
#6 ·
Forget to told you the fly wheel is 168 teeth

I see in summit many starters......tuff stuff ,summit,Proform High-Compression Racing Starters

and most are the same gear ratio...4.40:1 ......and find 6:1 tuff stuff

does 6:1 ratio is good or too much for starting?cos the price is very cheep which is 119$ only

I,m looking for one not more than 160$ us

I google about summit racing about starters and see many gets problem with it....not many recommend it

I,m looking for good quality and sure saving bucks
 
#11 ·
To use that starter there needs to be the straight across bolt holes in the block in good condition (not stripped or cracked casting where the starter mounts), as used w/the 153 T flywheel/flexplate. The starter will work on either size fly/flex using the straight across holes by using the different holes in the starter's nose.
 
#12 ·
thanks.but want to ask about something

does the higher gear ratio make a better crancking?and does it need more ampers?


I was looking in summitracing and see most use 4.40 gear ratio


Proform High-Compression Racing Starters 67050 - SummitRacing.com



Proform High-Compression Racing Starters 67052 - SummitRacing.com


Tuff Stuff Gear Reduction Starters 6550B - SummitRacing.com

the last is 6:1 ratio


I will just take a round and see what can I found...thanks for the CFR starter...I will thinking about too
 
#13 ·
The 6:1 starter is using that ratio to overcome having a less powerful motor. It will work on either size flexplate. The Proform starters have to match the size of the flexplate, they're not a "one size fits both" deal, but they're more powerful.

Besides the battery voltage, the amp draw of the starter will depend on the armature windings/field strength and the amount of load the starter sees. It would be expected that a gear reduction starter wouldn't draw as much current as a non gear reduction starter all else being equal, due to the mechanical advantage it has.
 
#16 ·
I have to doubt very much that it is the starter giving up. I've got a 388 with 10.7 SCR and used the oem starter on it until I had to pull the flexplate. Then I changed to a $75.00 mini starter from Speedway. Neither starter ever gave me any trouble. Your cables are too light, have bad or weak connections, or you have a spot of high resistance somewhere.
 
#18 ·
I would run some #4 or larger cable, grind and polish all connections and grounding spots. Make certain of good solid ground between frame/body/engine block. I still don't believe it's the starter. 10:1 SCR is not that much for an OEM starter to handle.
 
#19 ·
it's 10.5 CR........I think the KB climer piston...when it getting tight to the cylinder wall....extended with the heat as the tech tell me....it's the first start for the engine and need to be trained....I just run it totally 24hr.....I belive the engine will work much better after it's trained and turn easily

and take a round with it slowly for 30 km...........some told me the timing....and I adjust it ....sure it work greater but the starter the same.....also the ICM ...was bad and I change it with Dyno one from summit

Davis Unified Ignition Dyna-Modules 000444 - SummitRacing.com


it's miss fire the engine and make it shut off....I replace it with cheap used one from the JY... 10 $us and work fine...but the part not reliable.


and I read a lot talking about cables....I check it for worn,cut,corrosion,heat and test it with clamp meter.... .it's ok....even though I bought new cables from local shop....the same

I replace the starter with AC delco remunfactured....the same



I have 3 engines in my home.....I but the old starter on stock 305 engine working great with the same cables....but on the first one....slowly

the starter working great when the battery full charged 13.4 volt.......but once the drop to 12.75...it's start working weak.....when it's 12.2 V the starter almost stop....I changed the battery with higher amper "the stock was 73A I bought 78A......work little bit better...so I finally decide the starter is the problem

so I,m sure it's the starter.......sorry for taking long.....now all is fine only the starter
 
#33 ·
The little appreciated wire that runs from the ignition switch to the solenoid by way of several connectors can also show up as what appears to be a starter problem. It gets old, loose, corroded, etc. reducing the voltage on the solenoid that is located atop the starter motor. This thing has two jobs on a GM it switches a set of contactor lugs that connects the battery bus cable to the starter. It also moves the starter pinion gear into contact with the ring gear at the same time.

If it is not receiving full voltage to the solenoid terminal it will not make a solid enough perhaps not even contact with the contactor terminals which will result in the motor turning slowly if at all, or may be unstable where it runs fine one time and not at another time. This condition can also be caused by dirty, burnt or otherwise damaged contacts of the contactor lugs themselves.

A test for weak power being applied to the solenoid is to jumper that small terminal on the solenoid directly to the battery, if it spins the starter hard every time you connect it you’re onto the problem, it not it’s back to square one.

If this has the large old fashion starter on it, it can be replaced by the newer permanent magnet type which suck a lot less power off the battery as these only have armature coils no electro field magnets to take power as well. This will also provide some air space between the motor and headers.

Bogie
 
#20 ·
Jaykobo,what is your first language? please do a load test on your battery
consider an ignition kill switch if the engine is hard to crank due to high static spark advance.
do a draw test on the starter.
do a load test on your battery using your cables if the battery is good.
Do a draw test with your starter using your cables,all to make sure the parts work together.
Is you battery in the stock location?
Put a torque wrench on your engine to measure how hard it is to rotate your engine.
Do a starter motor draw test with the ignition disconnected.

do some math
 
#21 ·
oh yes....I try all....and sorry for my bad language...it's the 2ed language

I didn't check the Amp draw.....just the voltage it's drop to 11.5V to 10.8 while crancking

the battery 100% good..I mean the new one ...and the battery is still in the stock location

I do the torque turn it's reach 110 ft.lbs when it's in compression stroke....but not exactly about the # but not higher than 115ft.lbs

I,m away from the car now so I just work on it on my off days .....ok


thanks for helping man
 
#23 ·
really!!!!this is the new one...and have warranty on it and I bought it 2 weeks ago....XP...I will recheck the voltage again and check my ampers too this off day....my off only in thursday and friday.....will check it


I already bought the starter...it's good for the OEM starter to live 20 years I think.....is the torque is reading is normal?about 110ft.lbs??
 
#24 ·
hi......I just call the battery loacl dealer


this drop is normal for all batteries in Asia........the USA battery is powerful that's why it's not drop much man


if it drop less than 11V while cranking.....it need rechared or replace



but more ...it's ok...................why this diffrence even in battery???

and he told me....the Rocket,Voltage battries in Asia are the same

I have now Korean battery....and I ask brother to check dad car..11.5v while crancking...the same drop...so I think USA battery build for harsh weather
 
#25 · (Edited)
IDK about the diff between an Asian and an American battery, but even my small 12V lawnmower battery would be dead at 11.5V. Not talking about while the engine is being cranked, I'm talking about the battery at rest after the surface charge is removed.

The way a wet cell battery is configured, I don't see how it could be built to have less voltage regardless of where it made, unless the value of a volt is different there than here. Which I can't see happening, either. But who knows- stranger things have happened I suppose.
 
#28 ·
If "I didn't check the Amp draw.....just the voltage it's drop to 11.5V to 10.8 while crancking" means the CRANKING voltage is between 11.5 and 10.8, that might be OK. If this is saying it starts out at 11.5 AT REST and drops from there when cranking, it's not OK.
 
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