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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-05-2013, 07:45 AM
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Start by giving it a basic health check up. Do a basic diagnostic cranking compression test.
to see if the engine is in good basic health. Compression should be 150psi.
If the compression test is lo there is no point trying to hot rod it until that is fixed.
Rings, valve job. determine which is the problem.
There are many good ways to skin this cat.
If you want to optimise it for acceleration you will want to get some racey gears.
Find some 4.10's for a start. and a Eaton or a Auburn posi
Find a 750cfm carb.
Plan on getting some heads with smaller chambers and bigger valves and ports.
Long tube headers 2.5" dual exhaust
Sticky rear tires. (Drag radials, M/T ET street)
Dual plane hi rise intake
GM HEI upgrades and recurve.
High perf hyd cam and springs, rockers for the new heads.
If you will be using the existing short block and it has a dished piston
then plan on a 58-60cc head volume and thin gasket. You want the cr 10:1 but not over 10.50:1
92+ octane gas.
Fuel system upgrades, fuel line, pump filter 3/8" minimum.
Transmission stall converter: 10" 3500 stall.
Are you out of money yet ?
The 305 head on a 350 deal is just one way to do it.
Yup they will need a full effort home brewed port job and larger 1.94x 1.60 valves.
Lots of ways to skin a cat.

If your 70's smogger heads are the better ones and in good shape
and the motor is in good basic health other than being a low compression stock motor consider porting the hell out of them and supercharging this motor.

What are the results of your compression test? (carb open, fully charged battery)
What is the cylinder head casting number? (under the valve cover)
Origional, rebuilt, dished pistons ? flat tops?
What is the rear gear ratio?

$1K won't get you that far. How much do you want to invest (over time is fine)?
Remember when shopping for used performance parts: Most of the stuff you will see for sale is either obsolete, inferior, too small, worn out, fubared or otherwise all the jumk that others are casting off, cause they found better parts.. Thats why they are selling it.
But you can find some jems if you know what you are looking for and can avoid temptation to jump on a seemingly good deal that really is not. You need to be patient
but need to be ready to act on the right deal when it comes.
AVOID swap meets. 99% is the stuff for sale there is junk that no body wants.

What are the results of your compression test? (carb open, fully charged battery)
What is the cylinder head casting number? (under the valve cover)
Origional, rebuilt, dished pistons ? flat tops?
What is the rear gear ratio?

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 09-05-2013 at 08:05 AM.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-05-2013, 08:17 AM
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Remember if your car is heavier than the car you want to slay, you will need MORE Horsepower than the other guy has. Weight your car with driver.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2013, 03:28 PM
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well guys we have a problem......i looked up the casting number and it is a 305 the stock 305
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2013, 04:20 PM
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when you decide what works best for you,ask how to get there. 350s are cheap
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2013, 04:37 PM
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well i think the best rout is to find a 350 right now
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2013, 04:45 PM
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well i think the best rout is to find a 350 right now
Or a stock bore 400.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2013, 04:47 PM
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now thats a good idea or sell the car hahaha get something older
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2013, 05:02 PM
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Take that $1000 you were gonna use on this motor,put it in a sock& then save up another $1000 & buy you a new L31 w/ a 5 yr/100,000 mile warranty. Problem solved !!!
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2013, 05:12 PM
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You will have a brand new 1 piece rear seal,roller block for a solid fondation to build anything your heart desires.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2013, 05:16 PM
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that is a good point because i plan on having this car for a long time so why not do it right
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2013, 05:24 PM
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You can get a new 2 bolt main L31 for $1875 or a 4 bolt for $50 more & free shipping.You can't build a decent engine for much less than that.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2013, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eldudderino View Post
well guys we have a problem......i looked up the casting number and it is a 305 the stock 305
What is the casting number of the cylinder heads? (under the valve cover)
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2013, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
when you decide what works best for you,ask how to get there. 350s are cheap
Quote:
Originally Posted by jokerZ71 View Post
You will have a brand new 1 piece rear seal,roller block for a solid fondation to build anything your heart desires.
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What is the casting number of the cylinder heads? (under the valve cover)
i dont know under the valve covers i looked on the back of the block and it was 14010201
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2013, 08:01 PM
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The casting # of the heads will tell you if you have the HO version 305 or not.If it's the HO version,you may have somethin to work with.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2013, 08:25 PM
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well is the none HO version the one that was for California or something? from the VIN number it was made in Texas and Im from Illinois but i also looked up the intake number and it is an aluminum intake that they put on a caprice or something
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