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The cam might have survived, but since you need the lifters buy a cam kit you almost get the cam for free.
Need to figure out which block/heads you have before you choose a cam. Get us the casting numbers and engine code, and the casting number for the heads. These days you can buy new or rebuilt heads as cheap as you can service your head (unless it just needs milling because of warpage, causing the gasket to leak). If it was me and I was buying heads I'd look for a deal on aluminum heads, plenty of good choices there and the price difference is relatively small. After you figure out your engine set up, we can help with ideas for a cam kit. Keep in mind that the high lift cams would require different springs, and they have to be set up for your specific cam. There are plenty of truck/RV cam kits that could use the stock springs. If your buying new assembled heads, you can order them assembled with the correct springs for your new cam (at extra cost). |
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The cam could very well be toast. If there was that much wear going on then there are probably a lot of metal shavings in the engine. You should also check for piston to valve contact.
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Ok I got it tore down. Heads numbers are A3 78 (378450) and A4 78 (378450) and the Block Id is 4088458. I havent drained the oil yet so im not sure if there are shavings yet so. Im sure im just going to change the cam shaft just to be safe. The way my luck has been latly ill have to change the cam the next day after I put it all back together.
Thanks for the replies it is greatly appreciated! |
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Are those block numbers off the rear of the block? It doesn't look like there are enough numbers if it's an '86 - '94 350, or you have them wrong maybe, I can't find them on any sites I use. I find a 14088548 block, check your numbers.
On the heads, same thing, I don't find any heads starting with 378 with only six digits, and later heads have seven, and the only ones I find are early 327's. Your numbers are from under the valve covers? I looked here and here . Maybe someone else has better reference tools than I do. Also, the term "higher loped cam", I assume you mean more overlap and a tighter lsa to make the sounds you want, not for power?
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Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. Midnight Sun Street Rod Association |
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Yes. those are the only numbers on the heads. they are 378450 i just double checked and yess the block number is 14088548 i had to make my head smaller to squeeze into the firewall to get the 1 lol the only other number on the heads are GM 41 and GM 11 i dont know if that will help or not. Ill go back out and try to find another number but i looked them over very well and couldnt find anything else. thanks for the reply
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ok i found 2 more numbers number 1 is (19) and number 2 is (450) they were on the intake and exhaust runners. I dont know if that will help but those are the only other numbers on the heads. I was also just checking the Mortec numbers and it has to be 376450 because I was told they were 305 heads and it is the only one that is very very close to the numbers. theres alot of slag and stuff on the numbers so maybe im miss reading them. If they are 376450 it says there 60cc chambered heads are these heads allright to run on the 350 ?
Last edited by 400smb_s10; 02-22-2012 at 08:30 AM. |
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They're pretty restrictive, if your pistons are flat tops with valve reliefs, giving 6 cc's, stock bore, I make your static c.r. about 9.98 with a .041 gasket. If they're dished, and you can determine the dish volume, it could be lower.
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Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. Midnight Sun Street Rod Association |
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there flat tops with valve reliefs in them. Would porting the heads in my shop help them out a little or would it just be a waste of my time? Any suggestions on a cam that I could put in it that would give it a little bite?
Last edited by 400smb_s10; 02-22-2012 at 09:01 AM. |
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