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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2012, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Vberg View Post
Silver Surfer,
I'm 99% sure the motor is completely factory...the tranny is a 350 (think it needs to be rebuilt cause it shifts soft but that could just be how they are)...I just put an Edlebrock Performer RPM on a 400 sbc I built for my car...I do believe you are right about the quadrajet and I've rebuilt a couple carbs before so as long as its a reasonably simple to do I'd be tempted but I've heard people say just to send them out to a pro but I'm not sure why...I'm probably going to talk to my friend about doing top end work because we all enjoy motor work the only problem is I don't know what he wants to spend but I didn't think about new heads but that sounds like a good idea to do a cam with new heads and intake...I know for sure you are right about the oil. Does it make that much of a difference?
Thanks for the input I greatly appreciate it!
QJet is frowned upon by most hotrodders. I think there are two factors:
1) It is a factory carb. Most people assume that aftermarket offerings are always better.
2) The QJet is finicky and harder to tune, but once you get it right it will outperform other carbs. The problem is, most people don't want to deal with the learning curve. They would rather bolt on a moderate performing Holley or Edlebrock and get decent performance for no work.

One an old factory cam (slow ramp rate, low lift, and light springs) and the fact that this one is so old and well seasoned and spent most of its life with old school oil that had lots of moly in it, it is probably fine. But as of the late 90's oils started changing and moly was reduced. I am sure the cam and lifters have plenty of wear on them, probably not anything out of the ordinary, but not new and certainly not helping performance. Maybe your buddy used synthetic oil too? Everything I read said flat tappets and synthetic oils do not mix.

And yes I agree with PatM, the rear end ratio should be examined.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2012, 05:18 PM
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I figured we needed to open up the rear to change the oil anyway so I'll find out what the ratio is. I'd really like to see the qjet tuned right because I've heard negative and positive about it but I'm leaning towards going with it. Hopefully I can get this guy to do heads and a cam! Thanks for the help! I really appreciate it!
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Old 08-24-2012, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Vberg View Post
I figured we needed to open up the rear to change the oil anyway so I'll find out what the ratio is. I'd really like to see the qjet tuned right because I've heard negative and positive about it but I'm leaning towards going with it. Hopefully I can get this guy to do heads and a cam! Thanks for the help! I really appreciate it!

Order Cliff Ruggles Q-Jet book, it will walk you thru rebuilds, and performance modifications.

For performance, gearing needs to be in the 3.08 to 3.42 for a street cruiser, 3.55 to 3.91 up for a street/strip type terror, 4.10 and up for a dedicated race car.

You dont need racing gas to run nitrous, you local pump premium will work just fine. (Ive been using nitrous for 30 years, its not the big bad bomb people try to make it out to be) Engine damage occurs when people dont follow the directions, or beat on a worn out motor.

You should look for a kit that is for his type of set up(q-jet), the only thing that is usable from the EFI kit is the tank, hose, and maybe the solonoids(if it has a fuel and nitrous solonoid)

Check summit for a price on just the Q-jet nitrous plate.
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