350 sbc with 305 h.o heads will this work whats the ups and downs - Page 3 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2012, 01:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
The 305 heads on your 350 w a .480" cam will work fine.
Get a 3000+stall converter for the cam and recurve the distributor.
The cam will want gears too.

May need more than 87 octane.

Exactly which 305 heads do you got? casting number...
i have the 81's

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2012, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by smallblock383 View Post
i have the 81's
if you mean the "081" 305 TPI heads they will work well once ported
Be generous with the porting.
Then add new 1.94 x 1.60 valves.

The chamber on this head needs a good bit of deshrouding when going to a larger valve.
Look at the chamber on the 350 version L98 TPI head "083" for inspiration.

May not work with 87 octane gas.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2012, 08:49 AM
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If you're absolutely broke and can get free machine work then the 305 heads are an okay option (not really great though).

But I'd take those chinesium heads over them any day. Yea the small chambers help make good compression with a dished piston, but you can mill 64cc chambers to do that too

the 305 heads are super thin, have tiny ports, mediocre at best port and chamber design, a heat crossover passage that kills power, are worn out before you even get started on them, and require all new hardware.

So you can dump $400+ and 40+ hours into heads that will never be as good as even oem vortecs or just save a little more and get some budget aftermarket heads that are better in every respect.

I did the 416 heads once before. Total waste of time and money, but I had to learn the hard way.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2012, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
You are not going to go faster by putting a tiny carb on it
The rich smell is cureable. (heat, primary metering rod, timing curve, fuel pressure)

Performer manifolds always run too hot(smell rich) unless you get the heat riser flow corrected.
(especially with a AFB carb)
Block it off, or block one side and restrict the other side. (winter driving)

Get a wood carb spacer too. Heat isolation. I recomend a divided type wooden spacer for that manifold, for your car.

The RPM intake manifold is way better in every respect. It does everthing better than the performer manifold.

That and long tube headers should be on your wish list.

sell the performer and the tiny carb to someone that wants to run 14's.
To fund a RPM intake and corvette long tubes.

Now the cool low buck ported 305HO heads will suddenly be all they can be.
(and make a lot more power and torque)
The prob is I want to retain the side pipes so long tubes won't fly, well....want isn't the right word per say, its more part of my spend no money theory.....I will pick up some sheetmetal tommorow and make a small plate to block off the heat riser, would I be better off using the quad that's on it now as opposed to the small ede? I have a 1" spacer for the quadrajet but its composite instead of wood.....will that suffice? And I recall u saying I will need around 20degrees initial so I'm trying to find your post on how to restrict total timing, around 34-36 total and all in early correct? So medium springs and just need to learn the restrict part.....and then figure out how to start the damn thing with that much timing without spending on a gear reduction starter....I think I remember something about an ignition kill till it rolls over then hit the button to fire it but not sure if that will work with an hei. ....
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2012, 11:58 PM
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I'm an idiot, found both your switch post and you advance limit posts, so for sake of argument, knowing im running 94 octane always, what's the PRo or con to just locking the timing in at say 36 always and running the ignition interrupt to start it?
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2012, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
I'm an idiot, found both your switch post and you advance limit posts, so for sake of argument, knowing im running 94 octane always, what's the PRo or con to just locking the timing in at say 36 always and running the ignition interrupt to start it?
try running 36 under load at low rpm and you'll be buying pistons. That's the biggest disadvantage.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2012, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
If you're absolutely broke and can get free machine work then the 305 heads are an okay option (not really great though).

But I'd take those chinesium heads over them any day. Yea the small chambers help make good compression with a dished piston, but you can mill 64cc chambers to do that too

the 305 heads are super thin, have tiny ports, mediocre at best port and chamber design, a heat crossover passage that kills power, are worn out before you even get started on them, and require all new hardware.

So you can dump $400+ and 40+ hours into heads that will never be as good as even oem vortecs or just save a little more and get some budget aftermarket heads that are better in every respect.

I did the 416 heads once before. Total waste of time and money, but I had to learn the hard way.

This is all BS....
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2012, 11:13 AM
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No you don;t want to lock out the timing on your motor.

16 to 20deg initial is about right with that mild cam. 34-36 total.
Check your HEI distributor it should have a 20deg mech advance curve now.
A 16 to 20deg curve is just right, on this one.

The short curve and or locked curve is intended for motors with much bigger duration cams.

There is nothing stopping you from running long tubes with side pipes.
The connecting pipe is U shaped. Ya it has to be custom fabricated.

A divided spacer is better on your motor. Fully Divided dual plane manifold plenum.
something you can work on.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 09-15-2012 at 11:31 AM.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2012, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
No you don;t want to lock out the timing on your motor.

16 to 20deg initial is about right with that mild cam. 34-36 total.
Check your HEI distributor it should have a 20deg mech advance curve now.
A 16 to 20deg curve is just right, on this one.

The short curve and or locked curve is intended for motors with much bigger duration cams.

There is nothing stopping you from running long tubes with side pipes.
The connecting pipe is U shaped. Ya it has to be custom fabricated.

A divided spacer is better on your motor. Fully Divided dual plane manifold plenum.
something you can work on.
Thanks for the advise, I really wasn't looking forward to screwing with the dist.
So far so good, everything's apart, other then some minor issues, header hits the starter, so will hit the wrecking yard for a factory GM mini starter, and for the second time in my life I forgot the bolt for the balancer so the puller trashed the first few threads, nothing a chase shouldn't fix tho....



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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2012, 06:05 PM
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And yes, that's absolutely a 5pnd sledge on the left and a sawzall on the right, I don't fk around!
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2012, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
This is all BS....
AP72 is right. I would not waste my money on a set of thin casting 305 heads if Santa Clause would drop it on my lap. There are better aftermarket heads that will be cost effective and get far better torque and horsepower not to mention higher RPM (pass 5000 RPM). I had a set of 202 heads and you know where it end up? Staten Island Dumps. It was cost effective buying a set of AFR heads.

Last edited by lg1969; 09-17-2012 at 09:06 AM.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2012, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by lg1969 View Post
AP72 is right. I would not waste my money on a set of thin casting 305 heads if Santa Clause would drop it on my lap. There are better aftermarket heads that will be cost effective and get far better torque and horsepower not to mention higher RPM (pass 5000 RPM). I had a set of 202 heads and you know where it end up? Staten Island Dumps. It was cost effective buying a set of AFR heads.
If you're talking about the old "camel hump" 2.02's, while they are not great by any means they're also not nearly as bad as 416's. I would have at least tried to sell them on ebay for $50 or scrap em out.

There's also a BIG gap between top of the line AFR's and the cost to rebuild stock heads. AFR's are nice but there are a lot of other less costly aftermarket heads to consider too.

FWIW I was once dumb enough to be duped into the whole 416 heads with porting and valves thing... I learned my lesson the hard way.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2012, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by lg1969 View Post
AP72 is right. I would not waste my money on a set of thin casting 305 heads if Santa Clause would drop it on my lap. There are better aftermarket heads that will be cost effective and get far better torque and horsepower not to mention higher RPM (pass 5000 RPM). I had a set of 202 heads and you know where it end up? Staten Island Dumps. It was cost effective buying a set of AFR heads.
Did you really just use "cost effective" and AFR in the same sentence? Oh......and for the record....your gold plated afr heads are also likely "202"heads......its a valve size man...,not a brand name......
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2012, 09:51 AM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Did you really just use "cost effective" and AFR in the same sentence? Oh......and for the record....your gold plated afr heads are also likely "202"heads......its a valve size man...,not a brand name......
gold plated? AFR heads are quite cost effective for what you get. a fully cnc ported head that is assembled with top quality parts, made from a top quality casting and has customer service that is unmatched. There are other great brands out there like DART Profiler, Brodix, etc that sell bare castings cheaper but compare a fully ported set to a set of AFR's.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2012, 10:00 AM
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No bygddy , it just the 202 would cost me too much to have them work on and few more $$$. AFR was better deal for me. I'm not saying to get AFR. By the time you get the 305 heads and have it worked on, in which will cost a person lot of $$$. You are better off getting aftermarket heads for a little extra $$$.
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