350 sbc with 305 h.o heads will this work whats the ups and downs - Page 3 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2012, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by lg1969 View Post
AP72 is right. I would not waste my money on a set of thin casting 305 heads if Santa Clause would drop it on my lap. There are better aftermarket heads that will be cost effective and get far better torque and horsepower not to mention higher RPM (pass 5000 RPM). I had a set of 202 heads and you know where it end up? Staten Island Dumps. It was cost effective buying a set of AFR heads.
Did you really just use "cost effective" and AFR in the same sentence? Oh......and for the record....your gold plated afr heads are also likely "202"heads......its a valve size man...,not a brand name......

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2012, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
Did you really just use "cost effective" and AFR in the same sentence? Oh......and for the record....your gold plated afr heads are also likely "202"heads......its a valve size man...,not a brand name......
gold plated? AFR heads are quite cost effective for what you get. a fully cnc ported head that is assembled with top quality parts, made from a top quality casting and has customer service that is unmatched. There are other great brands out there like DART Profiler, Brodix, etc that sell bare castings cheaper but compare a fully ported set to a set of AFR's.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2012, 11:00 AM
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No bygddy , it just the 202 would cost me too much to have them work on and few more $$$. AFR was better deal for me. I'm not saying to get AFR. By the time you get the 305 heads and have it worked on, in which will cost a person lot of $$$. You are better off getting aftermarket heads for a little extra $$$.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2012, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Here is another pic of a nicely done full HOME ported 4416 head.
again see the strong flow paths around eh valve guide boss.
These heads will make strong power on a street motor
with a strong torqy power band well past 6000rpm.
With other good supporting parts. Like a 750-800cfm carb performer rpm or vic JR
healthy hyd or street strip solid lifter cam long tube 1-5/8" headers and 2.5" ex.
We'll I did exactly that, I hit deep in the ports using a 6" bit and cut cut cut lol.....the exhaust ports I was easy on the exit port as I was concerned about the headers, but I opened up the bowls a ton, my guide boss's look very similar to those pictured so that makes me feel pretty good, I matched all ports to my heads. As much as I would love to have an rpm or an airgap until I find a used one it can't happen. I am running a 1" spacer so hopefully that will help, instead of the 600 ede I'm sticking with the bigger quad for now. If the heads work well I might step up next year and actually spend some money on some "real" parts like a decent intake, long tubes and lots more cam......or bandaid it and buy a used nitrous kit and see how much stock cast slugs will handle. Thereby keeping up my personal entertainment seeing how much for how little I can do......
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2012, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by lg1969 View Post
No bygddy , it just the 202 would cost me too much to have them work on and few more $$$. AFR was better deal for me. I'm not saying to get AFR. By the time you get the 305 heads and have it worked on, in which will cost a person lot of $$$. You are better off getting aftermarket heads for a little extra $$$.
And believe me, if cost were no object I agree, everything I hear is all positive for AFR heads. But honestly, this little experiment of mine is the most fun with cars I have ever had, I have just over 300$ in theses heads, and that included 194 intake valves, three angle valve job, and both of those were free! Wanna know why? Cause my machine shop guy, who has been building motors a long time, loves theses heads, loves making them work, and thinks its cool to not spend 2200$ on a set of AFR heads for a stock bottom end completely street able 350. All this being said I may have completely messed these heads up and it may run like garbage, and if that's the case, the guy down the street has a set on kijiji for $60 but he lives down the street and us country boys help each other out so i could likely get them for 40$.....and we will try again.....hell, its only time on the computer I missing out on lol....
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2012, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
You have a Qjet carb on it now???? "quad"
Lol, yah, it was reman when the motor was replaced some years ago, it works amazing, does absolutely nothing weird, stumble, bog, nada.......Qjet .......yah I'm a *******....but I suspect I will stick with it for now, and its bigger then the Edelbrock
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Old 09-17-2012, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
You have a Qjet carb on it now???? "quad" It can and will work well but needs some dialing in to get it right.

You need to be patient and work at it to get a Qjet right. Then they fly.

reguardless I recomend you get or make a divided spacer for it.

Keep the plenum and carb spacer fully divided when using the stock torque converter.
make it as high/thick as you dare. 1" 1.5" 2" use what works. Wood works. Cheap and effective at keeping the carb cool.
I make my own carb spacers out of wood for peanuts.

I want to nail your *** to the seat with engine torque LOL!!!!
The spacer I have is the......that fkn plastic word, can't remember what its called lol, but its a plastic 4 hole for the Qjet
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2012, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
The spacer I have is the......that fkn plastic word, can't remember what its called lol, but its a plastic 4 hole for the Qjet
I think phenolic is the word your looking for. Good luck with the build.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2012, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by stroker_SS View Post
I think phenolic is the word your looking for. Good luck with the build.
!!! That's it lol....thanks....on a side note, any way to I'd the cam I just pulled out? I can see a stamp that reads "gm29" between a couple of lobes, then under the next lobe I believe it says 6920? Any clue?
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2012, 10:23 PM
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2012, 11:24 PM
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Meh, that's alot of work for something that will just end up as garage art......tonight was productive, starter in (love a factory mini starter!) Cam in, timing chain on, heads on, .....only snag was unrelated, I tried to open the butterflies on the Carb but they won't move, I'm guessing they are hung up on the 4 hole spacer so will have to pull that apart and see what's up...oh, gonna start a new thread for Carb help....
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2012, 01:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Here is another pic of a nicely done full HOME ported 4416 head.
again see the strong flow paths around eh valve guide boss.
These heads will make strong power on a street motor
with a strong torqy power band well past 6000rpm.
With other good supporting parts. Like a 750-800cfm carb performer rpm or vic JR
healthy hyd or street strip solid lifter cam long tube 1-5/8" headers and 2.5" ex.
Nice looking heads you have there, it`s great to see somebody willing to do a port work to factory heads and get good results.
Too often people just tell to scrap everything original and buy chinese crap just because some magazine or internet says that they will outperform your old junk.
Is the idea of `hot rodding` (i really don`t like that word) to buy all things ready or to build it yourself and be proud of what you have achieved.

I too like AFR heads, they are like a piece of art and perform really good, but there are some `entry levelŽaluminum heads that are like crap out of the box.
Build in china no matter what the cardboard box says where they are proudy made and colourfull box with stars and stripes printed in it.

I really enjoy your writing (F-BIRD`88) and will do a distributor in our Camaro
the way you have been adviced to a lot of people, i`m not sure if i can get enough advance limited with the bushing that came with MSD distributor to wake it up at lower rpm`s.
It (SBC 383) was dynoed and dyno guy found that it liked 34 deg to be best to this engine. 500 hp 500 ftlbs with crane 119661 roller cam 230/238 @ 050
10,8:1 comp, AFR 195 heads
I think about 20 deg of initial, does it sound good?
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2012, 02:44 AM
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Guys i got the motor in runs great off 87 octane no pinging
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Old 09-24-2012, 10:28 PM
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Mine runs excellent, so far, only on 94 tho....I'm very curios as to my compression.....I know the heads were cut at some point, but didn't know how much until I went to install my intake, and with the 1094 headgasket, the intake bolts do not line up! Close, very actually but not enough to get one side in if the other has any bolts in. I wound up using the die grinder to elongate the holes slightly, this seemed to work. Tonight I actually pulled the intake as I was an idiot and used the rubber end gaskets and one slipped out so it was leaking pretty bad. But the intake gaskets looked good with no surprises....is there a way to calculate compression based on say,cranking pressure or? I'm dying to know what I have.....and it seems I may have dodged a bullet with ptv by choosing a small cam ......I have had it to 6000 g's with no issue.....hmmm
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2012, 12:24 AM
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Mine runs excellent, so far, only on 94 tho....I'm very curios as to my compression.....I know the heads were cut at some point, but didn't know how much until I went to install my intake, and with the 1094 headgasket, the intake bolts do not line up! Close, very actually but not enough to get one side in if the other has any bolts in. I wound up using the die grinder to elongate the holes slightly, this seemed to work. Tonight I actually pulled the intake as I was an idiot and used the rubber end gaskets and one slipped out so it was leaking pretty bad. But the intake gaskets looked good with no surprises....is there a way to calculate compression based on say,cranking pressure or? I'm dying to know what I have.....and it seems I may have dodged a bullet with ptv by choosing a small cam ......I have had it to 6000 g's with no issue.....hmmm
I WENT WITH THE 305 H.O CAMSHAFT BRAND NEW AND FAR AS compression FOR STOCK 350 IT SHOULD BE 10:1
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