[logan1]

Hi guys,

I'm new to the forum are am thing about doing a V8 swap into my Datsun 240Z. As with just about everyone’s build the idea is to keep the cost down and get the best performance/dollar possible. The tranny is going to be a T5 from a V8 camaro going to a 4.11 R200 open diff. My Target power is approx 300hp/350tq at the wheels.

(1) Junkyard 350 short block with stock oil pan. I’ll be taking everything apart and reinstalling it after a good cleaning with new bearing. I would like to not get the block machined due to cost.

(2) Pro comp Aluminum Heads (210cc Intake Port, 64cc Chamber, 2.02/1.6 Stainless Valves, .550 Lift Springs, Straight Plug)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMALL-BLOCK-...item588fe0ed3b

(3) COMP XTREME ENERGY CAM XR282HR
http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-SBC-SB-...item20bec8955b

(4) Comp Cams High Energy Hydraulic Lifter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Comp-Cams-Hi...item4cfc0527c1

(5) 7.4-inch pushrods

(6) 1.6+ rocker rollers

Let me know what you think of the parts list and if I can do better for the money. I especially would like to try and save a lil money by getting a cheaper cam.

My car already has upgraded brakes, coilover suspension, thicker front and rear sway bars, strut bars, 275/4017 tires on the rear and 255/45/17 on the front. Below are a few pictures of my car:

[techinspector1]

Originally Posted by logan1

Hi guys,

I'm new to the forum are am thing about doing a V8 swap into my Datsun 240Z. As with just about everyone’s build the idea is to keep the cost down and get the best performance/dollar possible. The tranny is going to be a T5 from a V8 camaro going to a 4.11 R200 open diff. My Target power is approx 300hp/350tq at the wheels.

(1) Junkyard 350 short block with stock oil pan. I’ll be taking everything apart and reinstalling it after a good cleaning with new bearing. I would like to not get the block machined due to cost.

(2) Pro comp Aluminum Heads (210cc Intake Port, 64cc Chamber, 2.02/1.6 Stainless Valves, .550 Lift Springs, Straight Plug)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMALL-BLOCK-...item588fe0ed3b

(3) COMP XTREME ENERGY CAM XR282HR
http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-SBC-SB-...item20bec8955b

(4) Comp Cams High Energy Hydraulic Lifter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Comp-Cams-Hi...item4cfc0527c1

(5) 7.4-inch pushrods

(6) 1.6+ rocker rollers

Let me know what you think of the parts list and if I can do better for the money. I especially would like to try and save a lil money by getting a cheaper cam.

My car already has upgraded brakes, coilover suspension, thicker front and rear sway bars, strut bars, 275/4017 tires on the rear and 255/45/17 on the front. Below are a few pictures of my car:

First off, stop it with the poor mouth. You can't do what you want to do without spending some money. If you try to cut corners, you will probably be buying components that will lay down on you and it will cost more than twice as much to rebuild it later. Either wait until you have the money to do it properly the first time or take up another hobby that isn't so expensive.

Looks to me like you like to do a little curvy/twisty driving. If that's true, then I would spend some money on a good oiling system that won't uncover the pickup on hard turns. Call up Milodon and talk with a tech.

The cam you have chosen is a roller tappet hydraulic unit. It will not work with the flat tappet lifters you have chosen.

1.6 rockers will only add about 15 horsepower over the standard 1.5 rockers, while playing havoc with the valvetrain. If you want more lift, build with more cam and more static compression ratio. The timing on the cam you chose dictates a 9.6:1 to 9.8:1 static compression ratio to make a dynamic compression ratio that will work on pump gas.

I'd say you need to do some reading.

[ap72]

I'd say you need to forget the chevy 350 idea entirely and just swap in an L28ET with a turbo and injector upgrade and a megasquirt system. Its actually part of what I'm putting into my 280z and for the money you'll be MUCH better off.

You only want 350hp- that's EASY for an L28ET, or an L28E+T for that matter.

There is no good reason to go through the headache and expense of swapping to a chevy 350 if you only want 350hp.

Looks like you have a LOT of reading to do.

[logan1]

techinspector1: thanx for the response. I'll do a lil more research on the engine and see what i can comeup with. Do you have any paticual sourse that would be worth reading to give me more guidance for this project?

ap72: The reason i'm not doing a L28ET swap is because I dont want to do a turbo motor for my car; also i really want to use my 4.11 R200 diff.

[techinspector1]

Originally Posted by logan1

Do you have any paticual sourse that would be worth reading to give me more guidance for this project?

I would recommend reading everything David Vizard has written. Here's where to start....
http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Yo...2514042&sr=1-7
Buy one of the used ones to save some sheckels. I do it all the time. Read this through several times and take notes. This will give you a good foundation for reading more Vizard. Here are some of his other offerings....
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...ard&x=13&y=15#

[V8&4spd]

Just about any SBC you put in there will make it right now fast. I knew someone who use to convert them. You could have a small block in there in 1 day. You can use ram horn exhaust manifolds. Even with a 283 it will run like a Cobra. They use to use a Muncie 4 speed for the conversions.

[techinspector1]

Originally Posted by V8&4spd

You can use ram horn exhaust manifolds.

Yes you can, if you want to give up 50 horsepower.

[V8&4spd]

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Yes you can, if you want to give up 50 horsepower.

50 hp is nothing when you put a V8 in there The cars don't weigh a lot. I remember when the V8 went in you could spin the tires at will. There use to be a lot of those Z cars around. I remember them using the ram horns because they fit in there. They would make the transmission cross member out of angle iron for the Muncie.

[logan1]

True the car is very light at 2400lbs with all the fulids. That was the primary reason i decided not to go for a 383 stroker; figured i'd have serious traction problems with 400+tq.

[ap72]

Originally Posted by logan1

ap72: The reason i'm not doing a L28ET swap is because I dont want to do a turbo motor for my car; also i really want to use my 4.11 R200 diff.

What does the engine have to do with the R200 differential? I don't know what you have against turbo engines but it can get the job done for you a LOT more easily and cheaply. If you can avoid swapping engine types, especially from different manufacturers, it saves a lot of headache and money. You could turbo that for less than a grand. It will cost you more to just rebuild the chevy much less install it.

If you're going to swap an engine I would at least go all the way and go with a 5.3L LS, it would be cheaper than rebuilding an sbc and they're better engines.

[Landshark928]

What is your budget? There are plenty of 350 crate engines in the 300-350HP range on ebay for just over $2K. $3K and you're in the 400+HP range.

Also for a low HP 350 build the PC 210 heads are too big IMO. Will kill low end power. Go with the 195's. Or save a dime and get some Vortec heads.

[Custom10]

Seems like a really nice little ride just the way it is but its your money and it will not be cheap, never is.

Down draft webers would be a good upgrade for the current setup IMO,,,but

Have fun:

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html