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350 sbc intake install
i am swapping the old 2 bbl carb and intake off of my 76 350 for a 4bbl and this is my first time doing this i was wondering if i should use silicone adhesive to hold the gaskets on and should i use the adhesive just around the intake ports or? and what should i torque the bolts to. also if anybody knew any websites where i could get a detailed step by step on this and installing the distibutor thx
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yep
just did this myself on a 79 impala, not to use silicon on intake gaskets but apply silicon to all but 4 outer bolts on the intake (sbc are open to the water jackets) to insure aganst water leaking around the intake . myself i just mark where the dist. sits with a permanent marker take off the cap and mark where the rotor points and put it back the same but its better to find tdc on flywheel first. i hope this helps.
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not sure on torque broke my glasses earlier but will have it for you by tomorrow when i can see better sometimes autozone will tell you over the phone.
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im sry i didnt understand the first part of what you said so your saying i dont use any silicone around the water jackets? and just around the bolt holes?
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Instructions HERE.
I always use sealer around the water crossover and intake ports (you do not need a lot)- IF the gaskets are not the foil laminated type or if they're equipped w/silicone "beads" around the ports (see image below, left. These are V6 gaskets). You should follow the instructions that come w/your gaskets, if different from my recommendations of that of the Holley site I linked to above. On silicone beaded gaskets, I will use a spray adhesive (see image below, right)to secure the gasket in place on the head- especially if the engine is still in the car, to help keep the gasket from moving around while placing the intake on the engine. I always use RTV sealer at both ends of the intake where it meets the block (instead of those lousy cork or rubber seals. That's how the OM does it now, too). This bead has to be a nice, big bead, the size of the tube's nozzle w/o the plastic tip- about 1/4". Thread compound on the bolts will keep oil seepage from messing up your intake's good looks.
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thx alot guys very helpful
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Glad Cobalt remembered the 1/4" thick RTV bead on the ends which I forgot.
Torque pattern. >> http://www.chevytech.com/1c10o2.html |
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yes bead of RTV instead of the black rubber end seals
no sealant on the gaskets themselves clean and dry only they will self seal no need for sealer except sometimes on valve cover gaskets and oil pan gaskets also nothing else especially on 02 sensor equipped engines., have fun! |
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The key to a good install is to make sure both surfaces are clean. If they are clean and you use quality gaskets, no sealer is required. A little thread sealant on the bolts is helpfull to guard against oil and coolant seepage.
When you tighten the bolts start in the middle and use a criss cross pattern moving from one side to the other until they are all tightened evenly.Do this in a couple steps. I also use silicon sealer for the end gaskets. The key is to set the manifold down in the proper position the first time. Depending on the style of the manifold I will sometimes use a couple log bolts with the heads cut off. Screw them into the head and let them be a guide to be sure the manifold hit in the right spot the first time. This will make sure the sealant on the ends doesnt get scraped of from moving the manifold back and forth to align it
__________________
Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity Chet |
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hey caprice 76,welcome aboard
hemi joe here i'am working on building up my 87 caprice 5.7l 350.nothing crazy just a good street runner.it will take a trip to the track on occasion.any ideas or tips you find out let me know and good luck on your caprice JOE
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Quote:
Last edited by 76caprice; 06-12-2009 at 06:04 PM. |
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