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Old 02-14-2011, 05:28 PM
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350 SBC mod recommendations

So, I have finally saved up some money in my 'truck account' so i can finally start buying stuff for the motor. Before I advice ill list what my truck has in it
350 2 bolt (i think)
Slight after market ''RV'' cam
Headers
Stock heads
Edelbrock 650 cfm
5lm60 transmission
12bolt rear end with 3.73 gears (or so the PO says)

Anyway my question to you guys is, what should i get in order to open up the top end of my 350, after like 50-60.. it really falls on its face lol. Ive come up with some ideas myself. Im thinking about getting this kit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CC...n/?prefilter=1
Now if i just get that kit, will that increase hp? I have also stumbled upon some 461 double hump heads in my area for 200$ is that a fair price?
http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/pts/2202462353.html

They dont look too bad in the pictures, but yeah i only have about 500$ to spend.

Its got nice torque down low, but i would must like to have more umph on the highway you know, so i plan on making it a street car well truck i guess, not really a strip truck

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Last edited by C10Mike; 02-14-2011 at 05:51 PM.
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Old 02-14-2011, 05:38 PM
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Are you %100 sure it's a 350 ?


Cole
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Old 02-14-2011, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eloc431962
Are you %100 sure it's a 350 ?


Cole
Yeah i checked the casting numbers on the back a while ago, im pretty sure its a 350, it was kind of hard to read since i was under the truck and i kind of used a little pocket mirror and stuff, but i think its a 350 unless my brain subliminally made me think the letters and numbers i saw on the back of the block were 350 casting numbers lol.

Last edited by C10Mike; 02-14-2011 at 05:54 PM.
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Old 02-14-2011, 09:23 PM
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C10 , My truck weighed in at over 5000lb . To get that mass moving sacfrice no low end, and plan for 4600-5000rpm max.

Vortec heads, if you are only at 8.8 instead of 9.5 compression for some reason the Vortec make broader power. Most RV cams will work with the vortecs lift restriction depending. Using a edelbrock performer cam presents no clearance issues, when teamed with 3800II beehive valve springs and small retainers. If this is a normal driver, those Vortec heads are an unbeatable value . Bonuses include claims of 30 hp / 15tq heads themselves with the performer vortec intake.

Headers are free power. Budget sets are under 100 , and you do not feel bad scraping/denting them up on installation. With a RV cam and vortecs, headers could be a 40 Hp/tq gain. Combining to increase the useable power band.

If your trucks weight is stock like mine , it could have weight. Gearing the truck 3.73+ with 28" tire lightens things up. Sometimes 3.73 is the lowest you can go without overdrive to stay highway able. Can counter further with Light weight rotating parts like , Al driveshafts , yokes, Al pullies in some cases, alloy wheels, aluminum rear drums from 8.5" olds, etc. The alloy wheels alone each 28" , weight mounted 27 lbs. On oem steel its 40lbs per wheel.

Electric fans , there a popular 16.5" dia , 2650 cfm, for 20 bucks on the xlists. This fan installs with zip ties and to the oem 170 temp relay in 15 min. Taking the front weight off the WP pulley adds a few bits of TQ. Not a sizeable gain because the oem clutched fan works well too.

Always get fresh air into the carb. The stock airbox and fresh air flex hose is plenty.
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Old 02-15-2011, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinn
C10 , My truck weighed in at over 5000lb . To get that mass moving sacfrice no low end, and plan for 4600-5000rpm max.

Vortec heads, if you are only at 8.8 instead of 9.5 compression for some reason the Vortec make broader power. Most RV cams will work with the vortecs lift restriction depending. Using a edelbrock performer cam presents no clearance issues, when teamed with 3800II beehive valve springs and small retainers. If this is a normal driver, those Vortec heads are an unbeatable value . Bonuses include claims of 30 hp / 15tq heads themselves with the performer vortec intake.

Headers are free power. Budget sets are under 100 , and you do not feel bad scraping/denting them up on installation. With a RV cam and vortecs, headers could be a 40 Hp/tq gain. Combining to increase the useable power band.

If your trucks weight is stock like mine , it could have weight. Gearing the truck 3.73+ with 28" tire lightens things up. Sometimes 3.73 is the lowest you can go without overdrive to stay highway able. Can counter further with Light weight rotating parts like , Al driveshafts , yokes, Al pullies in some cases, alloy wheels, aluminum rear drums from 8.5" olds, etc. The alloy wheels alone each 28" , weight mounted 27 lbs. On oem steel its 40lbs per wheel.

Electric fans , there a popular 16.5" dia , 2650 cfm, for 20 bucks on the xlists. This fan installs with zip ties and to the oem 170 temp relay in 15 min. Taking the front weight off the WP pulley adds a few bits of TQ. Not a sizeable gain because the oem clutched fan works well too.

Always get fresh air into the carb. The stock airbox and fresh air flex hose is plenty.
I was looking at the idea at doing the whole vortec heads and intake idea, but i went on summit and assembled vortec heads are out of my budget at the moment, so can i use heads from the junkyard off of the newer chevy truck that have the vortec motor?
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Old 02-15-2011, 11:55 AM
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My truck power mod budget has not been outrageous .

Another tip is to use beehive or secondary conical valve springs. The small spring top allows for a tiny light retainer. The beehive shape is self stabilizing, not needing a damper spring saves mass extends coil bind. Vortec heads have sodium filled dead blow valve stems. All this equates to a engines ability to rev easier with less valvetrain mass that pops up and down. The light factory retainers 344 and beehive springs 343 can net 20 hp over the standard peices. Everthing else the same. These are LS6 springs also SeriesII3100v6 . These parts heads, springs ,retainers , were pulled for less than 300. The xlists vortec intake can be found under 75. Seals, mill, cut, clean 175.

A total vortec swap for RV cam around 9.4 compression costs about 500. A gear swap is about 350-400. Headers plumbed to stock exhaust 150 or less . TCI govenor kit for shift point adjustment 40.

That is a quick 300+ hp machine depending how much gear.
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Old 02-15-2011, 12:01 PM
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Ive been looking around a bit a found some vortec heads on craigslist for 250$OBO, i think ill offer him like 190 or something.

I was thinking about getting this cam and lifter kit from summit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K12-246-3/
its a little on the expensive side so idk yet, i might just get a cam and lifter kit only without the other parts.

and this intake
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-226018/


Summit is like a 15 minuet drive from where i live so most of my parts will come from there.
Oh and im new to this whole engine building 'thing' so, spinn you lost me at secondary conical valve springs lol.
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Old 02-15-2011, 12:10 PM
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Do not jump into anyting. Read all good related the posts , and articles in the tech section.

Get as much feedback as you can before jumping. Not only me.
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Old 02-15-2011, 12:38 PM
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I would suggest some more research is needed to define exactly what you have.
Rear Axle - Confirm the gear ratio. Should be an axle code stamped on the right side tube or there may be a option code sticker on the inside of the glove box door that can provide some insight. If that fails then pull the cover and check the numbers on the ring gear. You will want to change the fluid out anyway just as a preventive maintenance action. The .73 5th gear on that trans should provide decent highway driveability depending on your tire diameter.

Heads - What heads do you have now? To positively identify them you will need to pull the covers and find the casting numbers. What you have may be piss poor or adequate for your needs.

Engine - The block casting number is not always the definitive way to determine the engine size. There is a code on the front right land on the block. Right in front of the cylinder head. Find that code and research it. There are several sites which will decode it.
You do not know if it is a 2 bolt or 4 bolt and the only way to be positive is to pull the pan. If the motor has high miles you may want to do a rebuild to gain full benefit of any top end modifications.

Vortec Heads - If you have dished pistons in the block these heads will result in a decent 9:1 compression. If you have flat tops it will put the compression up where you will need premium gas. Need to confirm the piston type before going too far.
If you do go with the vortecs you will need to change the intake manifold also but you probably knew that.
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Old 02-15-2011, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinn
Do not jump into anyting. Read all good related the posts , and articles in the tech section.

Get as much feedback as you can before jumping. Not only me.
Im on multiple forums and the majority was either
1. get double hump heads and a cam.
2. Vortec set up
( im on a highschool budget so i cant get anything crazy)

i am aware i am most likely going to have to run 93 octane but that does not bother me since i have a DD already.
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