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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2009, 08:55 PM
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How can i post photo's for you to look at?

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2009, 09:02 PM
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go to where it says post reply and when you get to reply window scroll down to where it says attach files, then press button that says manage files and upload a pic from your computer........see
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Old 06-01-2009, 09:03 PM
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Before you start changing everything , start with the simple things first. Are you sure there is no air in the system? When I first fill the radiator I jack the front of the car up , and run the engine with the cap off to purge all the air in the system. Sounds to simple but believe me a air pocket will stop water from flowing.
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Old 06-01-2009, 09:23 PM
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I will try running with the cap off in the morning, Thanks Jim
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Old 06-01-2009, 09:26 PM
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Stiil says the file is to big 347kb will only alow 300kb
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2009, 10:59 PM
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JB,


Pictures.


If you are using Windows
@ the top of site suggestions & Help there is a sticky for a link to Microsoft's Power toys for a "picture resizer"

2nd

Read this

Cooling. . . .

~If I were you I would get a Infrared Non Contact thermometer & check your Rad for hot & cold spots then check your Cats to see it they are too hot.

~Look for a soft hose collapsing .

~What kind of belt system are you using?
"V" or Serpentine?

~You need to make sure you water pump is turning the right direction.
The belt routing can get screwy & sometimes water pumps can be Clock Wise or Counter Clock wise rotation.

A Typical SB Chevy will naturally cool itself even if the impeller blades are rusted off .

Basically the heat pushes the coolant out of the block thru the top hose gravity flows down & across the Rad & sucked up again.

If the coolant rushes past the Rad too fast it does not cool off in turn going back to the block hot.

~Which leads me to ask have you checked for a air pocket?

~Have you checked the Gage?

~Has there been work done recently? Like maybe a head gasket on back wards or something like that?

Unless you are running a super Hi Perf motor it should run cool.

let see......

~Ok one more thing check your cap for the right pressure & you need to have a overflow tank so that when the rad is filled up to the proper level { a few inches below the top} it has room to expand & contract .

Let me know if I can be any further help.





R
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2009, 03:37 AM
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what type of fan are you using, as said previous it could be that you have a reverse flow fan on the engine or even that your electric one is wired back to front and pulling instead of pushing.
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Old 06-02-2009, 06:16 AM
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using V-belt,pump is CW rotation.
used a laser temp meter found and even wave from top to bottom had hard time with the alum rad
have recovery can/recerc
will run with cap off today to check for air
pulled the manifold off first thing to check if i fliped the intke gaskets,there wereinstalled right
did check the gauge by boiling water,gauge said 210 just at boil
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Old 06-02-2009, 06:44 AM
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Here are Photo's,again thanks for the help!...Jim
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2009, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBSMITH
On my third build from the ground up, and feel like I am beating my head against the wall.


Build is a 36 ford pick up.... 350 crate motor 290HP,650 performer,cast exhaust manifolds,catback exhaust, 3 row alum. rad 17in 7blade fan puller 12in pusher. runs fine for 10 min.then heat slowly builds up to 220 and boils over when shut off. Treid 160/170/180/190 stats. Tried no stat. Tried resrictor in lower hose and no stat. Driving down road(no tags so it has to be a short run) 197degrees. Minute it idels temp rises.
Can anyone help?
Not enough airflow thru the radiator, a pretty common problem with older chassis vehicles. The engine fan is probably doing most if not all the work. The electric doesn't blow over enough of the core area to be of much use would be my expectation. The thermostat temp has no importance in this problem.

I would expect you put the electric fan on as a response to this idle overheat problem, is that true and did it make any difference? The engine fan doesn't have a lot of space for flow around the engine so the amount of air flow thru the core is most likely restricted by that regardless of how much fan you put on it.

You just might have to resort to more "radiator", given that is seems to have as much fan on it as can be applied. This is to say that you might have to resort to an engine oil cooler with it's own fan mounted underneath some where. Engine oil coolers will usually take about 15-20 degrees off the radiator's coolant temp.

Another trick is to use a length of copper pipe secured to the frame rails. This just gets more cooling by using the frame as a heat sink instead of getting more air thru the radiator which probably isn't practical for you. You run a loop in or on the frame rail. One side connects to the bottom of the radiator so flow goes into the pipe. The return connects to the water pump intake. Either or both methods are pretty effective. Or using smaller pipe or tube, the routing can be made on what was the heater bypass circuit. While this adds total liquid capacity, that really isn't the point, it's adding additional heat transfer area which is the bigger and long term effect.

Bogie
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2009, 04:59 PM
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Yes the electric fan did not make any temp difference at all. I am going to hook up the heater core and run the fan as a heat sink to see what effect this would have. I have installed this set up(16 inch puller only) on a 32 and had no overheating. rad core is 3- 1 inch tubes 24 X17 is the area. Same rad no problem.

Question, has anyone had the timing mark on the harmonic balancer off?

Balancer came with the crate engine, always supplied my own. later on this week I plan to bring up #1 to TDC to check to see if the timing mark is at zero at tdc. I am a big back to basic's guy. That's why I feel I am missing something stupid.

Please keep the ideas comming, basic or not ...Thanks again ...Jim

Last edited by JBSMITH; 06-02-2009 at 05:20 PM.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2009, 05:40 PM
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Your initial post is classic of not enough air flow through the radiator.
Most of the other common overheating issues get worse at highway speed.I would get rid of that pusher and if you have a good pedestal or floor fan, run it in front of the radiator from a foot or two away while idling to see if it helps.
Boggie also brought up a good point, maybe the fan is not able to move the air away from the radiator. You could prove this with the same external fan running from the side to move some of the hot air away from the front of the engine.

If you put your hand up by the thermostat with the engine running is there good air movement.

Is that shroud sealed to the radiator so that the air is not being sucked around the radiator rater that through it. I would use you I/R thermal sensor and see waht the air temp is in the fan cavity. If it is a lot cooler than the engine temp it may be due to the air going around the radiator rather than through it.

Remember every engine is a little different so what worked on others may not work on this one
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2009, 06:02 PM
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Just looked at your pics, tight fit!

One thing I noticed is that the fan blades appear to be entirely inside the shroud, or nearly so. This is incorrect, for the fan to properly propel the air off the tips of the blades, the rule of thumb is 1/2 of the blade inside the shroud lip and 1/2 the blade outside the lip. Right now the 1" or so "lip extension" you have on the shroud is forming a choke to the air leaving the end of the blades. You might shorten the whole shroud at the radiator face or just remove the lip extension.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2009, 07:58 PM
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Yes I did try a large box fan 12" in front of the rad,No change
Yes there is good hot air flow rear of the shroud (mostly at the edges of the fan blade tips)
The fan blade in the photo's is this weeks attempt , 17" seven blade replaceing the 17" six blade that was half in half out.
I am torn between air flow an timing.
This rad is 3" thick,most I have used were 2"
Tight fit is an under statement I have the cuts to prove it.

Keep it comming,..Thanks...Jim
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2009, 08:24 PM
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[QUOTE=JBSMITH
Question, has anyone had the timing mark on the harmonic balancer off?

Balancer came with the crate engine, always supplied my own. later on this week I plan to bring up #1 to TDC to check to see if the timing mark is at zero at tdc. I am a big back to basic's guy. That's why I feel I am missing something stupid.

Please keep the ideas comming, basic or not ...Thanks again ...Jim[/QUOTE]


As Far as I know there are 3 different marks for the balancer passender side, straight down thru the water pump & drivers side .

Also they do spin on them selves {worn out}




R
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