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Old 05-31-2009, 07:28 PM
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350 SBC overheating,need help

On my third build from the ground up, and feel like I am beating my head against the wall.


Build is a 36 ford pick up.... 350 crate motor 290HP,650 performer,cast exhaust manifolds,catback exhaust, 3 row alum. rad 17in 7blade fan puller 12in pusher. runs fine for 10 min.then heat slowly builds up to 220 and boils over when shut off. Treid 160/170/180/190 stats. Tried no stat. Tried resrictor in lower hose and no stat. Driving down road(no tags so it has to be a short run) 197degrees. Minute it idels temp rises.
Can anyone help?

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Old 05-31-2009, 08:16 PM
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Hi,
It sounds like your not getting enough air across the rad. fins to remove the heat while idling, do you have a shroud on the puller?
do you have room for a factory 7 blade clutch far & shroud, if so I'd give that a whirl.
Rich
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Old 05-31-2009, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richard stewart 3rd
Hi,
It sounds like your not getting enough air across the rad. fins to remove the heat while idling, do you have a shroud on the puller?
do you have room for a factory 7 blade clutch far & shroud, if so I'd give that a whirl.
Rich
You would be suprised what a 7 blade with a clutch and a shroud will do. I was having similer problems went with 7 blade with clutch big difference. Waiting on my shroud now its next. Cole
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Old 06-01-2009, 05:40 AM
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Have a shroud, 17 in Direct drive Puller-And a 12in electric pusher. Have used this combo with a single 16 in electric puller before-with no problem. Keep the ideas commimg. This is the second rad I had made for this build, first one fan spacer blew apart and took the rad out. both run hot. Keep the brian storming going......Thanks Jim
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Old 06-01-2009, 06:28 AM
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Tell us more about your plumbing - location of radiator cap. Read this tech tip just in case you fall into this category. It solved my problems when I inherited an overheating BBC.

http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tec...ech_Tips_2.htm
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Old 06-01-2009, 07:54 AM
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I would either say you're running lean and/or not enough base timing.
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Old 06-01-2009, 09:09 AM
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Are you running an overdrive on the pump? Smaller pump pulley, larger crank. Overdrive flows more coolant at idle and even more at speed.Idling and getting hot is an airside issue. Which means the fans are not pulling enough air. Also can be flow in radiator. You said it is a 3 row aluminum . Is radiator 3 rows of 1" tube? if that's the case, that's more than enough to cool. Could be cavitation in the pump. That's an air bubble created by heat build up in the internal metal parts like cylinders.
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Old 06-01-2009, 02:17 PM
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Is 220 as hot as it gets? if so, that`s not considered over heating but is a bit close for comfort. Does the radiator have a overflow bung? if so and it`s sealed off it`ll cause it to run hot, the system must have a vent to operate correctly. If the overflow is in use does it have a resovoir? If so, try this little experiment. Drain coolant level about half way down the radiator, place rad cap back on, fill the resovoir 1/4 full, start the engine and let it idle. You`ll see air coming out of the system and bubble up out of the resovoir, the coolant level will go down as more air is purged out, add more coolant as needed.
Years ago when dealing with constant tempature issues with my cutlass I found if I filled the raditor to the top with the engine running and put the cap back on it would run a constant 220, hotter than I perferred. My owners manual said to fill it the way I described, afterwords my heating issues were over. Other possible causes could be timing set too low, carb running too lean due to vacuum leaks or is too lean jetted. Is there vacuum advance on this engine? if so it should be connected to a full time manifold vacuum source. Your base timing should be set at 12 degrees before top dead center with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged, after locking the distributor down connect the vacuum advance to a manifold source.
You may also want to check the mechanical advance, under the rotor button is the mechanical advance that`s operated by springs and weights, check to make sure it`s not stuck. Are you using V belt or serpentine system? If a V belt pump is used with a serp. system it`ll run hot, if a serp system pump is used with V belts it`ll run hot, as V belt requires a standard rotation water pump and a serpentine uses a reverse rotation. Hope this helps.
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Old 06-01-2009, 07:23 PM
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Trying to upload photo's for more help but says file is to large-what am I doing wrong/
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Old 06-01-2009, 07:36 PM
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I will try my best to remember all the questions:

12 Degrees btdc
CW water pump V-belt
240 max temp on 88 degree day
195-200 driving on road
750rpm idol only 15 inch'c vacuum
16psi rad cap
Yes there is a shroud
have used this fan/rad combo on another build and no problem-did not need a electric fan (this one does not seem to make any difference any way)
did plug vacuum hose on base timing (tried 8,9,10,11 degree's btdc made no difference)
tried 4in pump pulley-no change
light blue smoke when warm's up
can not find any vacuum leaks
Keep up the brainstorming...Thanks ...Jim

Last edited by JBSMITH; 06-01-2009 at 07:42 PM.
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Old 06-01-2009, 07:44 PM
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An electric fan used as a pusher can be a big restriction to airflow when used together with a puller.

How easy is it for the hot air to get out of the engine compartment after going through the radiator??

An air dam (chin spoiler) below the bottom of the radiator support helps by creating a low pressure area under the front end, to help get the air out of the engine bay.
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Old 06-01-2009, 07:47 PM
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No hood or side panels yet, wide open. withe the pusher mount,or not made no change,
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Old 06-01-2009, 07:51 PM
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Does the vehicle have cats? if so how old are they, They can be plugged and overheat engine quik, too much exhaust restriction... just a thought.
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Old 06-01-2009, 07:53 PM
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no cats,but a cat back exhaust
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Old 06-01-2009, 07:54 PM
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so then you do have cats since your aftermarket exhaust begins after the cat ??
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