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Old 08-24-2012, 02:59 PM
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350 sbc swap, firing problems

I put a 350 sbc in my 1984 toyota, the truck runs, but is missing, when a timing light is hooked up, it flashes randomly, it will flash a few times, stop for a little bit, then flash some more, it seems to do this on every wire. The distributor is fairly new, but did get the control module tested and it was bad so a new one was put in but the same problem is happening. There are some extra wires I haven't taken out yet from the previous wiring, is it possible that if these wires have power they could be disrupting the distributor somehow?

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Old 08-24-2012, 04:04 PM
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How much power is it getting? HEI's MUST have 12 volts to work properly.
They will run on as low as 8 volts, but like crap and dropping spark signal as you discribe.
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:17 PM
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its getting between 350 and 400 horses, we were connecting the distributor straight to a 4 month old optima battery, we put it in my neighbor's 350 and it was 98% better. We had the motor running on an engine stand before it went in the truck and it was fine, only thing changed was the headers
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Old 08-24-2012, 06:03 PM
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Double Vision was referring to the electrical power to the HEI, not how much HP you have.
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Old 08-24-2012, 09:47 PM
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If it's not a lack of voltage, consider the condition of the timing light.
PatM
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Old 08-25-2012, 07:26 AM
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control module

When you replaced the control module did you use the white heat sink compound on the bottom of module? Radio Shack Part# 276-1372 or Auto Zone Part# wells SL203. Do not use dielectric grease. Important information on HEI distributors seen here Technical Reference #5.
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Old 08-27-2012, 06:40 PM
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i used the stuff that came with the new control module. It does have 12 volts running into the distributor, checked the connection today, my neighbor has a 350 that runs very well that we checked it in to make sure it was working properly, it was working fine in that motor (was on an engine stand). The timing light has been tested on my daily driver and it works fine.
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:12 PM
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the problem was the spark plugs, five of the gaps were too big and they weren't sparking, but it was running and just got worse, checked the plugs, adjusted them and it started firing again, but it still seems like its skipping some. I have some super short headers on the engine, there's probably only about 8 inches of pipe after the last cylinder to the end of the header, could this cause a lack of back pressure and cause the motor to run a little rough? also, would i need certain spark plugs if the compression ratio is high enough? It's currently running on premium grade gas.
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:31 PM
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350 sbc swap, firing problems

If they are 1970 or earlier use a R43, 1971 and later use R43T with 11.0 or higher. If you have dome pistons do not use R43TS. S= extended tip. IDK about the header pipe. When I was younger I heard running an engine with just the manifolds very long would burn the valves. I don't know if it's true.
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:36 PM
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thanks for the quick reply, and ya we aren't gonna run it long until i get the headers extended just to make sure since they are so short, a lot of people i know run just open headers but they aren't near as short as these. right now the spark plugs im using are Autolite, double patinum, APP 26, that is all thats written on it. This is my first project so im still learning a lot.
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Old 09-09-2012, 10:33 PM
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350 sbc swap, firing problems

The double platinum Autolite plug has an extended tip. Price $8.99. If you want to run Autolite plugs just buy the $2.00 plugs 134 or 135. In racing plugs AR134 and AR135.
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