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  #136 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2010, 07:16 AM
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adjust the idle mixture screws for best (highest rpm/highest vacuum).

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  #137 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2010, 08:08 AM
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expressed in simple terms?
the "fixed" independent idle circuit max gas volume feed rate and vent capacity is not very compatible with more than about 900rpms idle...

at 1,000 the carb is teetering back and forth on using both the primaries gas circuit and idle gas circuit is why the weird lope....
(mega cam that has to have 1000+ idle,,,is a customized Edie to work right)

timing tape????
until the cam gets swapped no point in fussing with the mechanical timing beyond runs ok and safe WOT values....

using a standard/basic timing light you are reading degrees at the pointer so you need a degrees marked tape on the damper to line up with the pointer highlighted by the strobe....

there is a minor inherent error in a typical dial back light read out because you can't program in the "exact" damper diameter to know the exact circumference and thus the exact degree spacing...
(the error is cumulative as you read further and further up the scale)
"but"
the read out is just a reference value,,,jeep really likes 36* from the dial back reading on the light WOT,,,,when it is in fact say 36.8*(?) due to spacing calculation error in the light IC chip,,,,=no problem at all as long as you use the same light for future checking values...

cobalt gave you a link way back on this thread for making a timing tape....

my way for making a timing tape is masking tape roll and a set of calipers....
measure the damper diameter and determine the circumference in inches...
divide the circumference inches by 360=per degree spacing...
(full circumference for just one layer on a roll of tape is plenty long)
I set and lock the calipers to the spacing value and point mark the degrees on the tape still on the roll 0-50,,,then pen mark the points...

once I am done tuning (that's a joke),,,I scribe/scratch thru the tape to mark the damper permanent with just the particular reference points I want so no need for a light when checking (and the tape is not going to stay there very long)....
lol, my CRS=for my car,,, I literally write the caliper setting on the garage wall for future reference to make another tape (along with firing order and "lots" of other reference numbers)

on a performance motor I still prefer the tape method (when I know it is the correct pointer bolted in the correct location)

PS: I have yet to see a damper ring only "slip" changing the reference 0...
I have seen 2-3 where the rubber bond did break loose and the ring came off (God awful wrack it!!!)
this "check for ring slippage thing" on the net gets suggested way to often IMO....
did I miss something? am I wrong?

Last edited by red65mustang; 02-05-2010 at 08:38 AM.
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  #138 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2010, 10:13 AM
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dumb info post delete....
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  #139 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2010, 09:32 AM
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Either I am one dumb SOB or something is not right...lol I went to sears and got one of them there advance timing lights. Hooked it up, 4cycle, used up and down arrow keys to get the timing mark on "0" for "measuring" initial timing at 950rpm. huh!!!!! Display showed 22.0???????

Maybe I should sell this thing before I hurt myself!
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  #140 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2010, 09:45 AM
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you have spent enough money at that local garage to just stop in and ask for help with using the new light and hook up theirs to compare readings...
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  #141 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2010, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red65mustang
you have spent enough money at that local garage to just stop in and ask for help with using the new light and hook up theirs to compare readings...

lol, yeah, they need a new laugh!

The light I had belonged to a friend and I gave it back already or I would check against his. With his, it was suppose to be 16.

Anyhow

Initial - 22.0 (no vacuum advance)
2,500rpm - 46.0 (24 mechanical Advance)
3,000rpm - 48.0

Interestingly enough all even .0 on mark.
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  #142 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2010, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red65mustang
cobalt gave you a link way back on this thread for making a timing tape....

my way for making a timing tape is masking tape roll and a set of calipers....
measure the damper diameter and determine the circumference in inches...
divide the circumference inches by 360=per degree spacing...
(full circumference for just one layer on a roll of tape is plenty long)
I set and lock the calipers to the spacing value and point mark the degrees on the tape still on the roll 0-50,,,then pen mark the points...
You could do the group a favor by doing an edit to include this info to the link I provided for making the timing tape (edits to the wiki is actually encouraged, and you need to bust your wiki cherry anyway).

That'd even get you a "lit up" title line to your posts! lol
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  #143 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2010, 10:23 AM
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Now that you mentioned it again, I did the tape and even rechecked it. The mark I made for 36deg comes up as 46deg on the advanced timing light!!!!

Thats pretty much it for this topic, maybe it will die a miserable death and fall low on the list
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  #144 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2010, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue84JeepCJ7
Now that you mentioned it again, I did the tape and even rechecked it. The mark I made for 36deg comes up as 46deg on the advanced timing light!!!!

Thats pretty much it for this topic, maybe it will die a miserable death and fall low on the list
This is a lot to read thru, I don't even know if I have a comment in here.

But let me ask this, have you located true TDC thru the process of a positive piston stop tool and a degree wheel?

Bogie
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  #145 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2010, 11:06 AM
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Bogie is right,,,
time to check that you have a correct for the damper located pointer mounted....

turn the motor over till the rotor is coming up to firing #1 cap location

stick a pencil (whatever) in #1 spark plug hole and hand turn the crank till the damper shows 0 lined up with the pointer while feeling with the pencil that the piston is infact at TDC....
(rock it back and forth a bit to feel for TDC while watching the pointer and damper mark)

48 can be 38 if somebody mounted a wrong pointer....
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  #146 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2010, 11:19 AM
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oldbogie,

this whole thread boils down to just over cammed/under geared with too big tires,,,not enough low rpms TQ for his OD tranny at highway speed...
he plans to install less cam near future and is just tuning for decent now...
(the motor and drive train are in good working order)

question for ya:
what is your GM oem 350 pick up/van best low end TQ cam choice?

he's got 32" tires with 3.36 front and rear gears (4x4)
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  #147 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2010, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbogie
This is a lot to read thru, I don't even know if I have a comment in here.

But let me ask this, have you located true TDC thru the process of a positive piston stop tool and a degree wheel?

Bogie
Not yet, just a few posts above this one I did reply that this will be my next step as soon as I get some more time and dry ground to work on.
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  #148 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2010, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red65mustang
oldbogie,

this whole thread boils down to just over cammed/under geared with too big tires,,,not enough low rpms TQ for his OD tranny at highway speed...
he plans to install less cam near future and is just tuning for decent now...
(the motor and drive train are in good working order)

question for ya:
what is your GM oem 350 pick up/van best low end TQ cam choice
What he said!!
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  #149 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2010, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbogie
have you located true TDC
I've been barking up this tree since the 6th. post of this thread. I guess w/so much "input", it got 'lost' until now.
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  #150 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2010, 02:21 PM
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cobalt,
LOL!!!!
1799 thread readers/150 posts=we must be at least decent entertainment????

this thread reminds me of a favorite from a few years ago,,,,4 or 5 extremely knowledgeable guys and me contributing went 150 posts to just say: "go buy a rebuilt points dist for $70" for a Ford 312...
(there's more to the story that made it a total hoot but not worth writing out)

re:wiki
I "only" do posts on this board because then only "I" can edit to change what it does say in the future....

your welcome to use anything I post to edit/add to your wiki's

blue,
learned a long time ago that if people laugh at you they are in fact laughing at and remembering their own past dumb sh## mistakes....
(amongst family and friends we all share our latest dumb sh## stories,,,they are hilarious)

stop by that garage and compare timing light readings....
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