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  #226 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2010, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue84JeepCJ7
For fear of retaliation on this ongoing topic, I didn't want to post this question....but...if you don't like it...don't read it any more!
I seriously doubt anyone has issues w/this thread, and heck w/them if they do...

However, feel free to post different questions in their respective categories like Engine, or Transmission - Rearend, etc. That way, it will get better exposure to the experts in that particular field.
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  #227 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2010, 08:49 AM
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Got ya!
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  #228 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2010, 09:59 AM
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CRS=I just remembered you never did post plugs condition...
(just pull a couple and post appearance,,,white-dry/tan/black-wet/etc)

your post #222= mpg went way down in third can be due to which rods and jets in the Edie and the plugs appearance can/will give a clue...

since it will be months till the cam swap/dist fix might as well see if we can improve the Edie abit because it is truly simple (almost idiot proof) to do "IF" needed....

just for the idea:
90% of my miles are in town but:
200 interstate miles to my daughters home and only 2 minutes to swap in "fat" .075 rods (I use 98 jets) for a burn so lean at 3k=70mph that the plugs are snow white by the time I get home...
3400rpms=17mpg interstate with a 302/3400lbs with the fat rods,,,14mpg interstate with my "modified performance tune sized rods" .071 which I do use in town for more fun/better throttle response/etc...

WARNING: the rods caps screws are weak and will bust the head off (guess how I know that!) so use a nut driver and use gentle applied torque loosening and tightening them (they only need to be tight enough to make a seal)...

the rod sizes are stamped into the rods,,,ex: the original 1406 rods are stamped 75/47 (75 is the high Hg cruise portion)
just loosen the caps screws a couple of turns and the cap can be rotated out of the way,,,the spring will pop up the rod enough so you can just lift it out to read the size embossed on it...
(the jet size is also embossed but so tiny I need a magnifying glass to read it with it out of the carb)

I didn't want to get into the carb till the timing was correct but what the heck,,,up to you and no problem for me to go further on this thread....

if this thread was junk,,,folks like Frisco and OldBogie wouldn't be trying to help....

ya,,,it's getting to "War and Peace" novel length but so what....
these threads stay on the server forever and are viewed on gooogle and can be a help to others in the future...

Last edited by red65mustang; 02-27-2010 at 10:06 AM.
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  #229 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2010, 11:02 AM
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Maybe I should get this?

1487 CALIBRATION KIT FOR #1406 PERFORMER CARBS

I will get that checked ASAP!
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  #230 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2010, 11:58 AM
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let's see what is in there and what the plugs say first!!!!

you may/may not need the kit after the cam change...

I might have a better choice pair to send you to use in the mean time...
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  #231 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2010, 03:23 PM
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They are 75/47's
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  #232 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2010, 03:42 PM
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and what do the plugs look like???

white tip and white on the ceramic by the tip?
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  #233 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2010, 03:46 PM
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Gray/White/Dry. No where near the wet black that they were when I changed plugs a few weeks ago.

Guess I am set to Base Power Mode!

Last edited by Blue84JeepCJ7; 02-27-2010 at 03:59 PM.
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  #234 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2010, 04:01 PM
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Let me go check the plugs again! I'll look better at the tip and base!
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  #235 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2010, 04:16 PM
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Both ceramic and tip look more gray than white. Looks more black in photo but its not. However the tip surface is darker.
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  #236 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2010, 06:04 PM
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the plugs (and chambers) are now clean because you fixed the idle Hg from 8 to 14 for fuel atomization at idle way back at the thread start....

the 75 is too lean based on the pic'

pm me your home address and I will loan ya a pair of 70/37's to try (till after the cam swap tune up is fine) in the mail on Monday...

it might also help that hesitation you can't explain....
and possibly help mpg since less pedal needed...
(write down the cruise hg now and after the rods swap)

WARNING: those tiny rod retaining springs have a nasty habit of going "booonnnnig" and lost forever (lol,,,and I won't loan my spares!)...

give the rods and rods chambers/springs a shot of the LP2 lube when you re-assemble,,,

sidenote:
if/when ya get a chance measure the gap on that E3 plug and post it please,,,I'm curious what gap they think is correct for a HEI motor with that alloy center electrode

Last edited by red65mustang; 02-27-2010 at 06:13 PM.
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  #237 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2010, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red65mustang
sidenote:
if/when ya get a chance measure the gap on that E3 plug and post it please,,,I'm curious what gap they think is correct for a HEI motor with that alloy center electrode
I should have checked before I installed them but installed them based on the 350 ref number!

Those rods look to be Calibration setting #2 on the carb chart. Stage 1 Rich 4%
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  #238 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2010, 05:20 PM
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Hehehehehe, Jeep is in the shop! There is a new shop not too far away that has opened up in the last few months! While my Jeep was on the Dyno, the engine quit!!!! He gave me the keys to his car and told me he would call me when it was "fixed".

His Website
http://www.billspells.com/
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  #239 (permalink)  
Old 03-21-2010, 10:48 AM
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Looks like the carb may have an internal crack!

Go with another Eddie or change over to a Holley? Hmmmm!!!
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  #240 (permalink)  
Old 03-21-2010, 12:10 PM
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Hello fellow Jeeper
Have you consider going with a Q-Jet (Quadrajet) carb. These are very good when in good condition. probably the best carb. for street/daily driven Jeep.
These deliver excellent throttle response do to small primary's and they also deliver awesome mileage. These guy's have very good Q-jet's for sale - http://www.smicarburetor.com/

Best regard's and Good luck !
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