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  #256 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2010, 06:05 AM
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actually,,,
a part of the hot day coolant temp rise/fall,,,, is/was due to the wrong/lack of ign timing for the cam...
(a normal car with lack of timing will run hotter on the hwy)

now that the vac adv is working,,,(to help at cruise and a stop sign),,,you need to wait till hot weather to see if it does still bounce around....

the low cruise Hg readings says the motor is constantly lugging/working hard which generates alot more BTU's at cruise for the cooling system to remove...
(at cruise a motor should be "loafing",,,only takes around 60HP to maintain speed)

at a stop light at idle the pump doesn't move enough coolant thru the radiator to quickly cool a 500lb "heat sink" chunk of iron that sucked up to much heat while moving...

my $.02:
the block and rotating assembly LOVES heat,,,see attached wall wear test graph and do note that was only a 60 hour wear test!!!!

all of todays new cars are set to run at least 205 to 215* and motor warranties are out to 100K...
so 195-210 range isn't even a concern....

(the cooling system was designed for a 4L motor BTU output,,,,a 5.7L motor worth of BTU output makes it a out of balance system so some temp fluctuation based on ambient is likely,,,doesn't hurt anything)

as the chart shows,,,it's running too cold that is a problem!!!!
(till you reach such a high temp that the oil can break down)
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  #257 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2011, 07:35 AM
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Its been just over a year and...well...yes...I am still alive!

Saved up some $$$ and took the Jeep to the shop. Auto Broker shop the specializes in high performance machines! I simply told them to drive it, smell it, dream about it, bond with it....inspect everything, test everything and call me with the results.

Bad distributor
Bad plugs
Bad wires
Compression test - good

FIX IT

New Distributor, Pertronix Flamethrower with the ignitor II.
Cut fireawall to fit
New Plugs and wires

re-time engine

$618.38 later......

11 deg initial
28 deg idle
53 deg cruise
36 deg WOT

idle 1,250 rpm, 15" of vaccum at idle
idle in drive 750rpm

This is the third "High Performance" shop that has worked on this thing in two years.

Last edited by Blue84JeepCJ7; 05-28-2011 at 07:40 AM.
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  #258 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2011, 08:52 AM
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Looks like to me, they had to run less mechanical because the vacuum advance was too much (17 degrees).

they should had put in an adjustable vacuum advance canister and limit the vacuum advance to 12 degrees.

run 18 degrees initial (mechanical), then add another 12 degrees with the vacuum advance connected to a manifold source. (30 degrees at idle)

set total to 38 mechanical, then the total with the vacuum advance would be 50.
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  #259 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2011, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue84JeepCJ7
FIX IT
Did it fix it?

Quote:
11 deg initial
28 deg idle
53 deg cruise
36 deg WOT
Other than the slightly lower initial and the slightly higher amount of timing supplied by the vacuum advance, this is a good curve. The total need not be higher than 36, as I believe you know by now. The rest can be fine tuned as results/performance require. What RPM is the total mechanical in by?

Last edited by cobalt327; 05-28-2011 at 11:52 AM. Reason: Question.
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  #260 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2011, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
Did it fix it?
Stop laughing at me...lol

To keep this topic from a never ending story.

I'm happy for now! There is tons of info in these 18 pages which I ready every few days. With they way this thing runs now, it all makes sense now!

As a hotrodder, I'd like for it to be perfect but as a daily driver, I'm happy!
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  #261 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2011, 02:37 PM
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I'll give you this: You've managed to keep a sense of humor throughout- something I doubt I'd have been as successful at!

But you can strive for perfection, or at least the semblance of perfection. Maybe after a few days of driving and some reflection, you'll have some ideas to run by the membership. I mean, we're in for a dime- might as well stay in for a dollar...
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