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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2010, 06:36 PM
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Oh while I was out side I took the cap off the distrib. The linkage was hooked up! I also inserted a 3/32 Allan wrench into the vac adv but the wrench may be too long. I think it was in there correctly and I could turn it left and right with no resistance. I'll check it again at work where I have a smaller (shorter) set of wrenches.

I will also take the video camera with me. ;-)

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2010, 08:21 AM
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anybody got a easy way to improve his latest u tube video?

I've got a good (hot rodded with software) CRT (bad eyesight) and can't see the needle at all....

Blue,
the audio in the first video,,,the motor definitely sounded like the mis-adjusted idle mix it did have....

second video sounds definitely like a street/strip duration cam typical idle...

ignore the idle bounce for a couple more days,,,it can take some miles for the chambers to clean themselves from the "yuch" 8-10Hg idle raw gas...
it wasn't the new gas in the tank,,,it is the 13Hg idle cleaner cylinders difference you are feeling
(do some manual down shifts for braking on your commute helps)

no point in correcting/diagnosing idle now till everything else is corrected/set,,,you will just have to re-tune it all over again at that point

what is the Hg reading at 70mph with no OD,,,,3.73 gears will be very roughly 3,500 rpms (= close to the peak TQ) with 1.00 tranny 3rd gear depending on tire diameter...

my vac adv adjust screw has just enough resistance turning that it won't move...

first test = is the diaphram shot= just plug it into the carb manifold vac port and read the new idle timing,,,it will be B+V total *'s...

Last edited by red65mustang; 01-22-2010 at 08:27 AM.
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2010, 04:48 PM
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Ok, got a video coming up soon. Until then I I checked the adjustment on the vac adv. From it's present setting I could turn it only one turn, or just shy of one full turn to the left.
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2010, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red65mustang
first test = is the diaphram shot= just plug it into the carb manifold vac port and read the new idle timing,,,it will be B+V total *'s...
No change, if any...maybe one degree.
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Old 01-22-2010, 05:11 PM
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New video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Heda5AH-cAg
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Old 01-22-2010, 05:20 PM
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go back to post 47 and study the graph...

only one turn counter clockwise possible is least added possible....
(and could show nothing added with your particular unit model)

turn it 4-5 full turns clockwise and plug it into manifold vac....

still reads nothing added to the base it is kaput
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2010, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red65mustang
go back to post 47 and study the graph...

only one turn counter clockwise possible is least added possible....
(and could show nothing added with your particular unit model)

turn it 4-5 full turns clockwise and plug it into manifold vac....

still reads nothing added to the base it is kaput
Yeap, it must be kaput! I turned it five turns and nothing. Initial remained 16deg. I have the 71100E installation instructions. No graph but it says that the vacuum chamber is factory adjusted to produce 10deg advance (crank) at 10" of vacuum.
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2010, 07:29 PM
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I can not find a replacement part anywhere! Is Mallory's 29332 Vacuum advance canister the same as Accel's 29332?
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 01-23-2010, 08:31 AM
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That's not a $40 Autogage (decent quality) vac gauge in the video!!!

$29 "made in China" says it is suspect for accuracy,,,,a Autometer brand vac guage is $60 (good quality),,,my WIKA gauge was $100 way back when....

every/any garage has usually several vac gauges on hand for testing....

stop and ask if you can borrow one for a brief test drive to compare readings with your gauge...

just use a T fitting at your gauge on the hose and a hunk of hose for the second gauge so you can read both...
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:12 AM
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Here it is on the website.

Miles-Per-Gallon Gauge

I got this one instead of a typical vacuum gauge because it was BIG.
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 01-23-2010, 02:38 PM
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Big is good! Obviously, it will make smaller incremental changes easier to see.

The best type gage to use for tuning and diagnosing is one that is NOT damped. The glycerin filled gages are too slow to respond to changes to be of much use for tuning. Your gage isn't damped, I don't believe. "Make Waves" has been around for awhile now, but as we all know- gages are just about ALL offshore. I have no idea what their reputation is.

If a gage is suspect, take it to a known perfect running vehicle and hook it up. If it reads lower than you know it should read, then you know the calibration is off. If it's off because of damage, then it should be returned if possible, ****canned if it's not.

Last edited by cobalt327; 01-23-2010 at 06:51 PM.
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2010, 10:33 AM
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add a bit to cobalt?

reads wrong is ok as long as the error is truly consistent over the full operating scale,,,truly a linear error,,,like off by +, -2Hg at any and all readings....

until you prove that conclusively by testing with a second at least known decent correct operating gauge,,,,the readings are worthless!!!
(or take it to a industrial instrumention shop for mercury filled glass tube vacuum calibration testing which my Wika has been thru)
the Autogage in my car does read 1/2Hg low consistently over the full scale compared to the Wika in side by side testing...
that's fine,,,a 1/2Hg is nothing on a car,,,and it is only a
relative representation "known good" value reference point anyway...

your cruise readings are off the chart for typical and expected,,,
either your jeep is very sick or the gauge is crap...
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2010, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red65mustang
add a bit to cobalt?

reads wrong is ok as long as the error is truly consistent over the full operating scale,,,truly a linear error,,,like off by +, -2Hg at any and all readings....

until you prove that conclusively by testing with a second at least known decent correct operating gauge,,,,the readings are worthless!!!
(or take it to a industrial instrumention shop for mercury filled glass tube vacuum calibration testing which my Wika has been thru)
the Autogage in my car does read 1/2Hg low consistently over the full scale compared to the Wika in side by side testing...
that's fine,,,a 1/2Hg is nothing on a car,,,and it is only a
relative representation "known good" value reference point anyway...

your cruise readings are off the chart for typical and expected,,,
either your jeep is very sick or the gauge is crap...
Wish someone would fix it for me ;-) Seems to run great, Can't wait to see how it runs when it is fixed. I'll get it sooner or later!
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2010, 05:37 PM
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Picked up a test vacuum gauge today from Orielly's. Reads the same as the MW gauge.

Also picked up a tach. I'll get it installed late tomorrow afternoon so I can get the idle checked.
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2010, 11:01 AM
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now that we know the low cruise Hg reading is correct,,,

the most likely reason for the low cruise reading is lack of total timing at 65mph rpms operating on just base plus cent added...
(if the dist has strong centrifugal springs,,,it may well only be adding say 2-4 cent at 65mph 2k rpms and the total timing 36* is not all in till 3800+ rpms which is needed on some applications to prevent ping due to a heavy load)

once the tach is installed you can know how many rpms to reach the 36* cent total "all in" actually is...

once you know what the 65mph rpms actually are from the tach you can use the linkage idle rpms screw to set the motor rpms to the cruise rpms value and read how many centrifugal degrees is actually added...

the idle reading in the last video was fine,,,again,,,idle on the Edie is a seperate function,,,at idle is only idle functioning on a Edie if that makes sense...

it's that 10-12Hg at 65mph reading on the video that needs your attention....

it will help you understand better by knowing and seeing how a correct operating car displays on the second vac gauge...
just a $3? long piece of small diameter wiper washer hose(?) snaked up thru the hood gap and gauge taped to the cowl of a different car so you can read it driving is all it takes...

LOL, 10-12hg cruise = did you look in the rear view mirror to confirm you weren't pulling a 30' boat when you shot the video????
"that" would cause 10-12 Hg cruise
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