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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 04:39 PM
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lol, thanks! It was just stuck. Nevertheless now the engine runs but consistently every revolution it has a single "pop".

I may have inadvertently bumped the magnetic pickup cause it looks like there is no gap at all between it and the Reluctor!

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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 05:01 PM
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Have you gotten the stumble to stop???? Just a sugestion here.. Adjust the pump linkage on the carb and see what happens along with your timing adustments. Sounds like she's running lean before the main circuit kicks in... I am thinking that is your issue for the stumble anyhow.... Just my 2 cents.
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hrlys4evr
Have you gotten the stumble to stop???? Just a sugestion here.. Adjust the pump linkage on the carb and see what happens along with your timing adustments. Sounds like she's running lean before the main circuit kicks in... I am thinking that is your issue for the stumble anyhow.... Just my 2 cents.
When I reinstalled the vacuum advance I never did hook it up. Thus it should have run the same until I hooked up the vacuum line. The pick-up plate was stuck and I don't know why. I got it free by gently working it loose.

Time to call the mechanic that installed the module and pick-up coil and let him fix it....again!

I learned a lot but I guess I better throw in the towel this time!

Last edited by Blue84JeepCJ7; 01-27-2010 at 08:27 PM.
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 05:39 PM
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Oh, while it was running I did manage to check the timing and the mark never made it anywhere in view at idle.
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2010, 07:51 AM
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blue,
the reluctor gap "is" printed on the first page of the instructions

http://www.accel-ignition.com/pdf/71000.pdf

and the factory reference original settings set up are on the brochure....

lol,,,
but hey,,,we (males) don't never need to read no stinkin' printed instructions for anything,,,,right?

don't get frustrated,,, doing anything for the first time is a challenge (to your temper)
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2010, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue84JeepCJ7
I may have inadvertently bumped the magnetic pickup cause it looks like there is no gap at all between it and the Reluctor!
I'm sure you know this, but be sure to use a brass feeler (non magnetic).

Steel doesn't harm anything, but the drag created can make 'feeling' the gap more difficult than need be.
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2010, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red65mustang
blue,
the reluctor gap "is" printed on the first page of the instructions

http://www.accel-ignition.com/pdf/71000.pdf

and the factory reference original settings set up are on the brochure....

lol,,,
but hey,,,we (males) don't never need to read no stinkin' printed instructions for anything,,,,right?

don't get frustrated,,, doing anything for the first time is a challenge (to your temper)
lol, yeap...got that one printed and I did read it but I didn't want too!!!!
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2010, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
I'm sure you know this, but be sure to use a brass feeler (non magnetic).

Steel doesn't harm anything, but the drag created can make 'feeling' the gap more difficult than need be.
Yeah, last night I found a scrap piece of .016 aluminum but today I brought home my brass 'non-metallic" gages.....evil grin!

Bet I still can't fix it!!!
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2010, 05:33 PM
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Ok, its confirmed. I shall no longer work on auto engines...lol!!!

I removed the ignition module and the pick up coil. Made sure all was clean and clear and re-installed everything. I set the pick up gap at .016 then at .014 and got the same engine response I got in my other post. After about every 8th cylinder fire, it pops once. Mostly consistent but can very a little. It almost sounds like I hooked up a plug wire backwards....but I didn't....or so I have checked ten times unless I marked them wrong...lol

You guys won't believe I work on airplanes for a living huh

Again the timing mark is nowhere to be seen with the light.

I have a video I'll post shortly!
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2010, 06:25 PM
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The timing mark will rotate CCW as you view the damper from in front of the engine, so you must have the vac. advance hooked to a manifold source. This is to be expected.

When you check your initial, remember that you want to disconnect and plug the line.
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Old 01-28-2010, 06:52 PM
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Here is the video of the popping. In real life it sounds more like a backfire.
Popping

And some pics of the Accel 71100E, Ignition Module and Pick Up Coil



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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2010, 10:01 PM
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If you've already done the "1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2" CW on the cap deal, and the wires aren't running parallel for their whole length, etc. and looking under the hood at night (dark) shows no cross firing or shorts, etc., then try:

Isolate what cylinder is causing it by pulling the plug wires one at a time till the popping quits.

BTW, Accel has a bad reputation among quite a few members here. I've only used their coils twice, and had no probs w/them, but...

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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2010, 06:22 AM
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Thanks!! Got it fixed late last night!!!

Now back to the vac advance. It works and I will adjust it today!!!!
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Old 01-29-2010, 08:58 AM
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blue,
lol, tuning the vac unit is another "chunk" to explain...
on your jeep "combo":
start off with conservative settings (add 6? at 14Hg) test drives and test in small 1-2* added additional increments up the added scale...

hate to be negative but my gut feeling is you can play with the vac unit forever and will get next to no improvement at cruise rpms...
(the available power at cruise rpms is to far off)
a vac unit is effective and simple to tune when the motor is in the 15Hg+ zone at cruise...
it helps the very "lean" cruise mix at 15+hg do a more complete burn to make more power by lighting the fire sooner...

what I would turns test for is: how many turns does help a light and mid pedal acceleration response,,,a small bit more better "zip" per pedal used...
(Hg will recover quicker and rpms will climb quicker=most power possible per unit of gas)

my $.02
BECAUSE of the power to weight ratio due to cam and gears and weight,,,you should hook up to manifold vac adv AND back off the base to 14 so that WOT max timing is 36*....
(idle will be plenty good Hg with 14b+ say 10v)
you are risking serious damage to the motor (just bad gas will do it) running with 40* with your present whole car parts "combo"....
(yup, replacing the faulty unit was money well spent just to gain WOT timing control! it may test out that 12b +??v is plenty)

HA!
(not a aircraft mechanic!!!)
since I wasn't able to even consider it might be a 4x4,,,,you for sure don't want me tuning a airplane motor...

Last edited by red65mustang; 01-29-2010 at 09:16 AM.
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2010, 10:05 AM
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re: accell quality

just a comment: to often accell just don't do that small inexpensive last step that would make it a "good" reliable product ...

example on blues dist:
ANYTHING 5VDC SS has got to have a rock solid constant ground volts source or it will go whacko turning on and off due to voltage drop below the V operating minimum thresh hold...
(and will cause mis-fires)

from what I can see in the pic's:
the module in that dist is solely picking up the 5V thru the mount to cent plate and that is not a reliable enough source...

using the steel to be the V supply conductor is bad enough operating with only 5V for circuit sensitivity,,,using only moving and rotating steel parts for a 5V conductor is not smart design....

Blue,
I would add a small (#16-18?) and very flexible (to not interfere with the plate movement) wire connected to the module mount screw,,,routed out with the other 2 wires and back to the batt neg post or neg cable connect or body of the alt (that is best but just to a excellent motor ground point is fine)
for a "belt and suspenders" to insure there is full 5V at the module period!!!

my $.02:
there should have been a <$.05? cost ground wire included with the dist when new....
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