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  #121 (permalink)  
Old 01-31-2010, 05:56 PM
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  #122 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2010, 04:02 PM
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Ok, back to work. My pro mechanic told me I almost had it. Thats all it was....the gap need to be set between the pick up coil and reluctor. I just didn't turn the distributor enough to align the.....wel you get it!!!

Now back to the vac advance, Since I do have it and it does work I need to get it set. I'll re read these posts and will try to set it Saturday.

BTW for those of you in the area, there is a large car show swap meet in Moultrie, Ga this weekend. Back in november there were some 700 lots rented out!!!!!!!!!!!!! A lot is about the size of a single car.
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  #123 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2010, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red65mustang
Blue,
I would add a small (#16-18?) and very flexible (to not interfere with the plate movement) wire connected to the module mount screw,,,routed out with the other 2 wires and back to the batt neg post or neg cable connect or body of the alt (that is best but just to a excellent motor ground point is fine)
for a "belt and suspenders" to insure there is full 5V at the module period!!!

my $.02:
there should have been a <$.05? cost ground wire included with the dist when new....
You are correct, there is no ground wire per Accel installation instructions! I will have it installed tomorrow!
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  #124 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2010, 12:27 PM
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blue,
vac adv is going to be just trial and error testing...

set it to 6? and drive it for a full day...
try 8 the next day....
(runs better)
try 10 the next day...
(on and on)

you are trying to judge for best "overall" normal driving acceleration performance improvement....

my post for setting it by cruise Hg improvement doesn't apply due to the gears/cam mis-match,,,(I think?)
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  #125 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2010, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red65mustang
blue,
vac adv is going to be just trial and error testing...

set it to 6? and drive it for a full day...
try 8 the next day....
(runs better)
try 10 the next day...
(on and on)

you are trying to judge for best "overall" normal driving acceleration performance improvement....

my post for setting it by cruise Hg improvement doesn't apply due to the gears/cam mis-match,,,(I think?)
Got ya but first see my next post...lol
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  #126 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2010, 03:43 PM
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Totally confused...lol

Got my Jeep back last night. Just a few minutes ago I removed the distributor cap to install a ground wire to the ign module. After I did this I checked the timing. The vac advance was still disconnected. I told the mech the vac advance would not be used for a while so this is what he set my timing too!

Now, my mouth dropped when I saw this.

Initial is set to about 28deg (36deg mark on the -8 index)
At 2,000rpm I am getting 48deg (36deg mark on the 12 index). This does not include the mechanical?. I never did WOT but it ran great, idles good and accels with no hesitations, spits or sputters!!!! All else mention in afore posts remain the same.

After I get some feedback, I'll change it and hook up the vac adv and get all that set over the next few days!
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  #127 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2010, 04:25 PM
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because you need to drive to work the first thing to check is can your starter system crank it when hot (get it to full temp/turn off for a few minutes to heat soak then see if it starts)....

(anything above 18*b is hell on the starter system when the motor is hot,,,ya need a ign on/off switch so you can get it spinning then give it spark)

the BIG risk leaving it there is if you "do" need to floor it to avoid a accident!!!

call him tomorrow and ask why did he do that....

14b+14v=only 14b while cranking and 28 at idle
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  #128 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2010, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red65mustang
because you need to drive to work the first thing to check is can your starter system crank it when hot (get it to full temp/turn off for a few minutes to heat soak then see if it starts)....

(anything above 18*b is hell on the starter system when the motor is hot,,,ya need a ign on/off switch so you can get it spinning then give it spark)

the BIG risk leaving it there is if you "do" need to floor it to avoid a accident!!!

call him tomorrow and ask why did he do that....

14b+14v=only 14b while cranking and 28 at idle
I'll call and ask.

I do have a pushbutton starter switch. I can push the button, get it spinning then turn the ignition switch on ;-) When I got home I let it sit for about 10 minutes then started it back up....after I installed the ground wire!
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  #129 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2010, 04:37 PM
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my bet!!!

either you or he did not tighten the dist down tight (enough)....

they will advance themselves if not tight....
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  #130 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2010, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red65mustang
my bet!!!

either you or he did not tighten the dist down tight (enough)....

they will advance themselves if not tight....
I did check and it was tight. He did re time it because he had to grossly move the distributor to be able to set the gap on the ignition module.

I have a 9/16 aircraft cylinder wrench thats nice for getting to that well hidden distributor bolt! It needs a little mod but it works well!
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  #131 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2010, 02:29 AM
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Do you KNOW the damper timing mark/timing tab are accurate in the first place? Cause if they're not, the timing can LOOK weird, but be spot on.

You never did DETERMINE TDC and MAKE A TIMING TAPE, I'm guessing... lol
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  #132 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2010, 04:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
Do you KNOW the damper timing mark/timing tab are accurate in the first place? Cause if they're not, the timing can LOOK weird, but be spot on.

You never did DETERMINE TDC and MAKE A TIMING TAPE, I'm guessing... lol
Ah ha! I did make the tape but failed in the determination.
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  #133 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2010, 04:59 AM
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I'd say the next logical step would be to verify that the damper and timing tab agree with the rotating assembly as far as where true TDC is. All too often, dampers and timing tabs are mismatched to begin with or the damper starts rotating,
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  #134 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2010, 07:19 AM
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blue,
I would talk to the mechanic before testing for TDC=0
just my $.02:
way more probable that he goofed setting the dist than the damper elastic ring chose "yesterday" to croak and shift

after you do prove TDC=0,,,scribe a deep radii straight line on the face of the damper (like a hand on a clock),,,inner steel hub straight to and across the outer steel ring,,,,so from now on you can just check the line "alignment" to know if it did shift....
(life would be so much simpler if the damper mfgr's did do that during manufacturing!)
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  #135 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2010, 04:18 PM
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This morning on the way to work I noticed a few things. I did use the pushbutton starter to get the engine spinning before adding spark. Even so engine started with no problems at a temp of 210 deg. One in particular I did not like. The idle was 1,000rpm and had a lope. It was a forceful lope that rocked the jeep. Unlike a nice 500rpm wobble lope. With that I changed the timing when I got to work. I retarded the distributor back to 12, adjusted the mix screws and set the idle for 900rpm. Then set the vacuum to 6 turns on the hex. Removed the vac hose and checked the timing again.

900rpm @ 15" with 12degrees initial
2000rpm 36deg on zero index tab
WOT 36+8 by 3000rpm

Attached the vacuum hose on noted no difference in readings. However, reverse up the incline was ten times better!!

Next I will confirm timing mark. I noticed that ebay has some timing tape for about $3. If I can find some in a local store, is it worth it?

Thanks for hanging in there with me guys!!! Its hard to learn anything when someone else does the work!
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