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350 two bolt build

3K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  cdminter59 
#1 ·
First let me say this is a project truck. I am trying to build an engine and I want to eventually take it on the drag strip and not look a fool. So here is my question. I have a clean 350 two bolt main block. I want to know what it is the best build out of this type of motor for a 65 Chevy Short bed Stepside truck. I will be upgrading the suspension and most everything else. I also have a turbo hydro 350 automatic transmission.

I would like to try to get 400hp out of it and would like to pull under 13 sec on the strip. I want to run pump fuel. Give me your ideas on what I can do to achieve this. Can I even get that much hp out of it?

I am thinking about turning it into a 383 stroker but don't know if it is a good idea or not since it is a two bolt.
 
#3 ·
Personally I wouldn't make a 383 out of a 2bolt block, yes it's been done but I just wouldn't do it. A simple set up for a reliable, fun, and fast 350 would be a set of hyper flat top pistons, a stock set of rods and crank will do or you could find a simple scat or eagle aftermarket set. No need to go forged. As for heads, a set with 180-200cc intake runners (AFR, DART, Brodix, RHS). And I personally would go alm if your budget allowed. A hyd roller cam with around 230 degrees @ .050" and .520ish lift. A dual plane intake like the performer rpm and a vac sec 650 or 670cfm Holley. Since its going in a truck I would stick with a 1 5/8" set of headers. Use a simple aftermarket HEI distributor. Put a shift kit in the trans with a set of 4.10 gears and a 3000 stall converter. And like you mentioned do what is needed to the frame and suspension to get the power to hook.
This should make more than 400hp, I'd say closer to 425-430hp and similar tq. In a 4500lbs truck (as longas you hook) should run 12.6-12.8
 
#8 · (Edited)
#4 ·
Getting 400 horses out of a 350 is pretty easy with modern materials and technology applied to camshaft and cylinder head design. A 383 stroker just makes getting 400 horses easier. With the weight and size of 65 stepside the 383 brings a lot more torque which makes getting a heavy machine out of the hole a lot faster. The two bolt block is pretty good especially if it's aligned honed and the crank assembly is well balanced. In the case of a 383 that means using an internally balanced crankshaft which leads to 6 inch rods.

Budget is the big consideration, if money is unlimited so is the build. If you have a tight budget then parts have to be more conservative and shopping a lot sharper. Provide some cost limits and I can do more with recommendations.

Meanwhile follow this to some cylinder head recommendations:

Eight Budget Small Block Chevy Heads Tested - Car Craft Magazine

Keep in mind that the piston crown makes up the bottom of the combustion chamber. While a flat top piston in wedge chambered engines offers the best burn function they can get you into more compression than the available octane fuel can handle even when the squish/quench function is as optimized for mechanical octane as is possible to achieve. The best way to maximize squish/quench and manage overall compression is with a D dish piston, this is especially true on the 383 stroker as tight and efficient combustion chambers such as found on the Vortec head against the additional 33 cubic inches of the 383 tends to get the compression up into a problem area for pump fuel. By using a D dish it is possible to keep the flat area of a flat top piston adjacent to the squish/quench step of the head, while the D dish under the valve pocket is used to keep the overall CR within practical limits. This is a case of having your cake and eating it too, that doesn't happen very often.

A nose heavy pick up can use aluminum heads to get 50 pounds of ugly fat off the front wheels, the same can be said for an aluminum radiator and water pump as well. Taking pounds off the front helps with the front to rear weight transfer when you launch.

Anyway come on back with some budget ideas so specific recommendations can be made.

Bogie
 
#5 · (Edited)
First take the block to a machine shop to have it checked for cracks, etc. Have the block bored and decked to "0". Replace the cam bearings and make sure it does't need line bored. I would recommend a set of Dart, Afr, or Brodix, etc. with 190-200cc intake runners. Use a head gasket to yield .040 quench (the measurement from top of piston to bottom of head including gasket). If your budget allows this would be a good rotating assembly: Eagle Specialty Products B13201E030 - Eagle Street and Strip Rotating Assemblies - Overview - SummitRacing.com. With the 12cc D-Cup pistons and 64cc chamber heads would net a 9.6 compression ratio good for pump gas. Add a Hyd. Roller camshaft kit K12-433-8 and you could expect 410 hp @ 6000 and 414 lbs. of torque @ 4500 rpms. These figures include a dual plane intake with 750 cfm carburetor, 3000 stall converter, and 4.10 gears.
 
#6 ·
Budget for the build

For the total engine I am thinking I will put close to 3 to 5 k into it. I already have spent 400 on the engine and transmission and broke it down with my son. This project is about learning and teaching at the same time. I appreciate all the help.

Yes I know I could buy a crate engine but if I did that I wouldn't be building it. I also wanted to stick with the lack of a computer system but at some point in the future I might redo the engine again. I mean are these things ever really done?
 
#7 ·
weigh your truck to determine how much power you need,,listen to oldbogie, he makes it simple and clear. When you know how much power you need,then choose heads. 2 bolt 350 will work ok. 4 bolt blocks are not rare,,, Your transmission/gearing/tires will make the biggest difference to ETs,suspension next,power is next,dont let a poor exhaust system slow you down

come back with some answers and we will all put in a few ideas,some will be good,some not,pick the ones that best suit you
 
#9 ·
It would be cheaper to start with a 96 to 2000 vortec 350 engine form a truck. You can get one a used and complete engine (fan to flexplate) for less than $750. These engines came stock with vortec heads and roller cams.

The freshen up the block, modify the heads a little, add a bigger roller cam, add a rpm intake, 3310-750 holley, and a set of headers.

Nothing wrong with a 2 bolt block. I wouldn't worry about it until you reach the 500hp mark.

to run a high 12 in a 4000lbs truck with a 350, you will need 4.11 gears, limited slip rear end, 10"-3000 stall converter, 26-28" tires, and 400hp at the wheels.

If your 65 came with an inline 6 it most likely has an open diff with a 3.73 gear, V8 models came with 3.08's.

Gear ratio will be key to the build. a 500hp 350 will not run well with a 3.08 gear. Unless the 500 hp is made with boost or n02.
 
#10 ·
Curb Weight

The curb weight with what I have in it which is the 230 l6 and 3 speed transmission is 3300lbs. I have new wheels but surprisingly they didn't add much weight. Keep in mind this is a street/strip combo I am looking for and it is a secondary vehicle for me. Meaning it will be driven to shows the strip and around town. Maybe some highway miles but will try to keep it from sucking me dry via the gas tank.
 
#11 ·
If you can keep the weight to 3500 total,you will need to make 475 HP and use 3.9 gears to get around high 12s. Trucks are not known for great hook or aerodynamics.
The heads will need to flow 250 plus CFM intake side with 75% of that on exhaust side. 750 cfm carb,single plane intake,camshaft to rev 6700 ish solid flat tappet or roller hydraulic, 1 3/4 tube headers,open header motor for racing. 10.2 ish CR. start in this area
 
#12 ·
I had a c10 67 short bed step side that came with an inline 6 and 3 speed on the column transmission. manual steering and brakes. It weighed 3700 pounds.

My c10 70 long wheel base weighed 3850 when it had the 350 engine, 350 trans, and manual steering and brakes. Now it is 4300 pounds due to the addition of a 454, th400, ac, power steering, power brakes, sound proofing, and extra exhaust.

So, your 3300 pound truck seems low to me. I would get your truck weighed to make sure.
 
#14 ·
Unless its gonna be a monster race motor I'd be less concerned with it being a 2 bolt block,as I would it being a high nickel block. Look under the timing cover for a cast 010 number that indicates 10% higher nickel block.These were generally the older driver side dipstick block with the wide water pump boss tab on the pass. side.
Your better off with a 2 bolt 010 block than a 4 bolt thin block.
 
#15 ·
350 2 bolt main

If you want to build a 383 stroker you can purchased Program 4 bolt main caps. The machine shop can drill the block, fit the caps and align bore the block when done. I had my 454 block decked to .005 and converted to 4 bolt main caps for $500 including align bore. Like was said the extra cubes = more bottom end torque to get that heavy truck moving. You said the budget was $3000-5000, you can have nice 450 hp 383 stroker for that price. BTW you could buy a rotating like this to save money. Eagle Street/Strip Kit, SB Chevy 400, 3.750' Eagle Crank, 6.0' Eagle Rods, 10.3:1 SRP Pistons - Eagle Street\Strip Rotating Assembly Kits - Eagle Rotating Assembly Kits - Rotating Assemblies | CNC Motorsports | Car Parts | Truck Parts | Competition E. Purchase a set of Dart SHP top end kit to save some more $$$: Dart 01311132 Dart SHP Top End Kits for SB-Chevy
 
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