350 Vortec block - Page 6 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Hotrodding Basics
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #76 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2011, 12:54 PM
1969chevyss's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 128
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I will see can the guy give me the casting number off the heads and send me a picture so I can post here so you can look at it. The guy who works at the machine shop stays within 15 miles of me and he said I can stop by and he will show me how to do it with some dry ice and a propane flame torch. Will see how it goes. That machine shop charges 80 bucks for all the rods pressed in, is that good or bad.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #77 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2011, 01:05 PM
1986c10's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan
Posts: 168
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
mine quoted me 120 i believe but i ended up just getting floating rods which use spiral locks instead of interference fit like the press in.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #78 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2011, 01:07 PM
1969chevyss's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 128
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1986c10
Im still learning so all my info may be off a tad but i just built a vortec 350. Idk if youre looking to make a race engine, dd, or street strip motor but i did mine with the intention of it being a street strip motor with the help of lots of info from cobalt etc. After long nights trying to figure out what pistons to use to get around 9.5:1, i basically found nothing. I ended up buying a balanced rotating assembly for about $800 from skipwhite. It included probe forged pistons dished -12cc pistons, procomp hbeam rods, scat cast steel 9000 crank, hastings rings, king bearings, flexplate and after a little bickering a harmonic balancer also. The kit isnt intended for racing as it has a cast crank and procomp rods (good/bad) but it can certainly withstand some abuse and some trips to the strip and was alot cheaper then having my stock crank reground, finding pistons that would work, redoing and pressing out the wrist pins and then spending the $200 my shop quoted me for balancing. My heads ended up being 62cc after decking, i used a .024? head gasket, quench was somewhere around .048 i believe and that all landed me around 9.7:1 compression. good luck on your build man!
Are your King bearing the high performance ones or the SI?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #79 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2011, 01:09 PM
1969chevyss's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 128
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1986c10
mine quoted me 120 i believe but i ended up just getting floating rods which use spiral locks instead of interference fit like the press in.
The rods that states bushed not pressed, are they the ones that are floating rods?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #80 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2011, 01:15 PM
1986c10's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan
Posts: 168
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Yeah the bronze bushing type are floating and can be installed on to the wristpin and piston with tiny screwdrivers and patience if they are the spiral lock type. I believe my king bearings were non silicon (mains) and i think i actually used clevites with the silicon on the rods

here is the exact kit i bought so you can check out the rods. and they are I beam rods, not h beam like i previously posted.

http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/...tem=350-RA1F30
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #81 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2011, 01:24 PM
1969chevyss's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 128
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks, i will check out the link. How good are the Procomp I beam rods compared to the eagle i beam rods?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #82 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2011, 01:33 PM
1986c10's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan
Posts: 168
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
That has been my first time buying any procomp stuff and i have yet to fire the engine as im trading it for a 454. But from what ive read, procomp has had lots of good and bad said about them. obviously their parts (heads being an example) sell for very cheap compared to other big companies, with that being said i believe strongly in you get what you pay for. But i do believe that eagle is a great company even though they had some problems with cranks a little while ago. Id buy eagle over procomp as far as rods go but i think if you dont race it at the strip every weekend, you wont know the difference. The procomp rods were much better as far as quality then i had originally expected.

Last edited by 1986c10; 10-03-2011 at 01:39 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #83 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2011, 02:34 PM
1969chevyss's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 128
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Just wondering, I have the eagle i beam press rods, but was considering about getting some bushd procomp rods. I also have the Scat crank from ebay and Clevite 77 p-series rod and main bearings. The only thing I'm not sure about are these piston which I got for cheap and I am starting to think I should invest in a better set, even though i wont be racing. I will probably take it all and have it balanced in about a month or so. They said it would be 170 bucks.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #84 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2011, 02:38 PM
1986c10's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan
Posts: 168
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
either way, your rods will have to match the pistons. ie press in piston and press in rod, floater piston and floater rod. So if you have press in rods and press in pistons already, the procomp floater rod wouldnt work with your piston (assuming it is also a press in style piston).
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #85 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2011, 02:43 PM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 597 Times in 546 Posts
Pistons that have grooves for floating pin clips can often be used w/a pressed pin, but not the other way around, i.e. don't use a pressed pin only piston w/bushed rods.

IMHO there's no real advantage to floating pins in a street engine except ease of assembly/disassembly- which isn't done w/a street engine, at least not often. And you save the cost of pressing the pins. The added cost could be a wash.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #86 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2011, 02:59 PM
1969chevyss's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 128
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1986c10
either way, your rods will have to match the pistons. ie press in piston and press in rod, floater piston and floater rod. So if you have press in rods and press in pistons already, the procomp floater rod wouldnt work with your piston (assuming it is also a press in style piston).
Yeah I know my pistons are both pressed and floating.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #87 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2011, 10:13 AM
King of my Man-cave.
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Michigan
Age: 55
Posts: 2,838
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1969chevyss
Just wondering, I have the eagle i beam press rods, but was considering about getting some bushd procomp rods. I also have the Scat crank from ebay and Clevite 77 p-series rod and main bearings. The only thing I'm not sure about are these piston which I got for cheap and I am starting to think I should invest in a better set, even though i wont be racing. I will probably take it all and have it balanced in about a month or so. They said it would be 170 bucks.
The Eagle SIR I-Beam rods are junk pieces that won't hold size. The Pro-Comp rods are junk, period.

Look at Scat I-beam rods. Nice pieces that are very affordable.

tom
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #88 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2011, 11:10 AM
1969chevyss's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 128
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I already have the Eagle rods but will take a look at the SCAT rods and see. Thanks
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #89 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2011, 11:18 AM
1969chevyss's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 128
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Here are a couple of pistures of my block after I got if from the machine shop and painted it.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #90 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2011, 11:38 AM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 597 Times in 546 Posts
Can you say chamfered bores?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Hotrodding Basics posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



« Cat removal | Ohio »

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
97 Vortec block help tmartellc Engine 2 09-05-2011 11:06 AM
96 vortec 350 block? 396chevelle Engine 9 12-29-2010 11:07 PM
TBI vs Vortec Block zildjian4life218 Engine 11 01-26-2010 01:48 PM
vortec block???????? slr6000 Engine 5 09-24-2003 06:19 AM
Vortec on old block?? stereodud Engine 16 10-13-2002 11:24 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:20 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.