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10-07-2011, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
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10-07-2011, 06:28 PM
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They need to be chamfered. And they sure look like they are. Sometimes photos can be deceiving, it looks like a lot is all, and before you ask- no it won't be a problem.
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10-07-2011, 06:32 PM
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Mann lol you had me sweating I was getting ready to curse the machine shop out. And you took for ever to reply back, lol. I did notice that when I compared my block to my buddies which is not chamfered. Thanks for looking. I can tell now you are going to be a big help on this build.
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10-08-2011, 08:54 AM
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The bores look like they may have a little TOO much chamfer. Make sure your head gasket does not over hang into the bore at the chamfer. If they do, you may need to use a 400 head gasket.
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10-08-2011, 10:42 AM
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10-14-2011, 02:30 PM
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I have a set of Clevite 77 P series rod and main bearings. My crank is an eagle that has a .092' radius on the rod journals, main journals, rear seal and snout for supposedly increased strength. Will my rod and main bearings work or do I need a different set?
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10-14-2011, 02:46 PM
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Typically an "H" bearing is used w/large crank fillets. You must check the "P" bearings to see if they crowd the fillets, and even though your .092" radius isn't huge (0.125", or 1/8", is typical in many cases), I suspect they may need to be clearanced.
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10-14-2011, 03:03 PM
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Thanks for the reply, i will check and see.
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10-15-2011, 08:11 PM
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Is a brand new GM nodular iron crank better than the eagle cast steel crank? Which would you use? Just asking because I found a guy who supposedly has a brand new one.
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10-16-2011, 07:10 AM
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The nodular crank casting number is 14088526
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10-25-2011, 07:25 AM
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I am taking my parts to the machine shop this week to get a balanced done. Here are the parts that I was told by a known good machine shop to bring in for the balance. Let me know if this sounds right.
Harmonic balancer plus bolt Front crank timing gear plus both keys Crankshaft Flywheel plus bolt Rods Pistons 1 rod bearing 1 ring bearing
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