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Old 09-06-2011, 09:58 PM
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350 Vortec block

I came across a 350 vortec block that was supposedly removed from a 99 surburban. Cylinders have been honed and are in good condition.
Comes with pistons and main caps. Can someone give me a little history on these blocks and will it be ok to install in my 69 caprice which has a 350 4 bolt main. If I build this enginem what will be different from any other build on a 350. Guy only wants 50 bucks and I am looking for a spare engine to build to drop in just in case. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 09-06-2011, 10:10 PM
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These are far superior to the older engines.
Why is because the Vortec 350 comes with a factory roller cam. They also have a windage tray for better oil control. The crankshafts are "indexed" at the factory, meaning it has it`s true stroke depth of 3.480. The crankshaft is a 1 piece seal design that uses a flywheel with weights on it for it`s balance. The old 2 piece leak prone design used a different flywheel, but the good news is, the old 2 piece and 1 piece flywheels do not interchange so you can`t get it wrong.
The Vortec 350 should also have PM rods which are stronger rods than the old "X" rods and etc. The Vortec uses Metric rings, so if you plan to do a rering job, the rings are expensive. You can get a aftermarket cam to replace the stocker and reuse the factory roller lifters, this is a advantage as you can run a roller cam without going broke. If the heads aren`t included that`s a shame, as the Vortec heads are far better than the old smogger and camel back heads. The last thing is, some Vortec blocks have a provision for a mechanical fuel pump, some did not. Some are half finished, some aren`t even started. Vortecs also use a special timing chain. If you want to use something other than the stock replacement chain, Cloyes makes a timing set for it that`s a single roller design. Are the pistons the factory pistons?
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Old 09-06-2011, 10:14 PM
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Thanks for the reply, so this block will be more superior to my original block now?No it doesnt have the heads and I'm not sure if they are the original pistons.

Last edited by 1969chevyss; 09-06-2011 at 10:20 PM.
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Old 09-06-2011, 10:37 PM
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What makes it better is the roller cam, cuts resistance. Also the windage tray and the indexed stroke crank.
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:53 AM
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And its nodular iron crank/PM rods/superior metalurgy, as well as the roller cam.

peace
Hog
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:56 PM
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Ok scratch the vortec, I bought a 350 4 bolt main with casting number 3970010. I plan on taking it to the machine shop this week to honed, cleaned and inspected and bored .030 over for a 383. I am going to turn this thread into a 383 engine build step by step with the help of all of you guys. I only want to worry about one thing at a time, so my first question is i know i need to konw what size pistons, cam and crank i will be running so I can tell the machine shop, is there anything else I need to know now to have the block ready for machine shop.
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Old 09-08-2011, 10:37 AM
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I just bought this 400 Small Block Crank that is already machined and balanced for 60 bucks, now I need to know a set of good pistons and rods that will work with my build or do I need to know the cam first. Also the block is going to the machine shop today to get clean, honed, bored, etc for 270 bucks which I think is a little pricey, I'm still calling around to see is there a better deal in town.

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Old 09-08-2011, 10:41 AM
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Here is the block


Last edited by 1969chevyss; 09-08-2011 at 10:49 AM.
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Old 09-08-2011, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1969chevyss
Here is the block
Man, you sure gotta hate seeing the rod being thrown like that. Hopefully the block is still OK or you may be looking at a sleeve.

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Old 09-08-2011, 12:50 PM
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I know, thats what im hoping too, if the blocked is cracked or no good for other reason he will give my money back. How can you tell by that view that the rod is thrown. I called the machine shop back and they said to turn this block into a stroker ready, everything included is 500 not the 270 and 120 if it needs aligned. Is this price about right or not even close.

Last edited by 1969chevyss; 09-08-2011 at 01:05 PM.
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Old 09-08-2011, 01:17 PM
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Old 09-08-2011, 01:18 PM
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Old 09-08-2011, 06:51 PM
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Hope that block was next to free, look's very rough. Around here in NW OHIO, $ 400-$500 total for machine work, for standard machine work. That block look's like from the photo, that it need's a prayer.
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:55 PM
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Those old blocks are hard to crack. You can even bore them well over the diameter of older generation blocks without worrying about overheating.
it definitely needs bored and vatted over night, but nothing more if it's not cracked.

I have the same casting number that I'm building right now. The .040 bore cost me $85.00 and the cam bearings installed cost me $45.00. Vatting it overnight will put you back about $50.00.

Good luck.
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Old 09-08-2011, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohio Hab
Hope that block was next to free, look's very rough. Around here in NW OHIO, $ 400-$500 total for machine work, for standard machine work. That block look's like from the photo, that it need's a prayer.
actually this block is in better shape than it looks and it being an 010 block it is hard to crack, like jason says, I will definitely keep you all posted if it good or bad, and I will not pay 400 or 500 bucks to any machine shop, here in Florida we are surrounded by al bunch of machine shops so its competetive so you get quality work for a good price. I was quoted 500 bucks, but that was if it needed aligned and notching it out for the 400 crank, but even thought I bought this crank today, I'm thinking about just buying a stroker kit with everything all ready balanced.Oh well I'm learning as I go on and I'm sure I can get my money back for the crank.
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