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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2013, 10:33 PM
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I was looking into a ecm reader an found some on amazon. OBD1, OBD2 which is what i'm looking for or do you recommend something different? It's cheaper then a tow from my house. thanks!

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2013, 12:28 AM
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My brother told me I have a small leak from a crappy gasket..on the torque converter, would this be fouling me up with the weak spark an not turning over??
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:39 AM
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ok i reread your first post. putting a battery on jumper cables will not charged it properly . you need to get a charger on it and see if yours is good.

a leak from the trans has nothing to do with it not starting.
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:25 AM
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if your looking at buying a scanner look at the snap on mt2500. you can find them on eBay used for around 300 bucks.

there's no gasket on the torque converter to leak.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2013, 10:30 AM
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I don't think your in the need of a scan tool just yet. get the engine to roll over properly first then go from there. if your gonna buy anything but a vehicle specific Haynes Manuel, these offer troubleshooting, proper sensor function descriptions and how to text them. if your after codes you can jump two of the pins on the obd port, not sure which ones but the Manuel should explain all this.
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:59 PM
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is there a way to test your alternator without the rig turning over?? thanks a million
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Old 09-16-2013, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrostbiteRodders View Post
is there a way to test your alternator without the rig turning over?? thanks a million
auto zone can test the alternator. the alternator is not used for starting, get a Haynes Manuel, read through the troubleshooting and ask questions along the way.
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Old 09-17-2013, 05:57 PM
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You have to get that motor turning over properly first. If you have one injector spraying and the other is not, it may not have a pulse, or it may be stuck closed. A little tap of the hammer may help. Maybe you have washed the cylinders down and you have no compression. Start with the basics. Suck, squeeze, bang and blow!
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Old 09-19-2013, 12:48 AM
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Well here we go again, I was getting a "click, no start" an would still be able to turn on head lights! ..well took battery an starter in an got checked, starter was good, an battery was charged from autozone. Now i brought them hope an still get 12.4 or so on battery... an starter back on, now i get "no click, no start" EVEN WORSE! and no headlights turn on....so I did some more reading here on the site an it could be a blown lock cylinder(some said it can have you chasing your tail until you change it), an mine was screwed... you could pull the key out with it all the way turned over. Had been going for years.
And nothing i get "no click, no start" still, an no headlights.. Seems like it might be an issue with battery cables. I checked the grounds an 3 of 4 were loose. I took them off an cleaned them...an snugged back down. Knowing this could be an issue I was praying it would solve this.....
Nope all grounds checked as far as I know there was one on the heater block(black, odd shaped box on passenger side of firewall) Also one on the fire wall(with some metal braided rope thing) can't find the other end, seems to go into engine block). And one on the body near passenger head light, and another on front of frame passenger side. None of this helped!!! Not sure where to go at this point, I have ordered Chiltons and an electrical one too. When i get them I'll read them front to back....!! I thought maybe a ignition coil? or a Distributor Pick up??
But this seems to be a short maybe? why would be symptoms be so odd, an never seem to be the same.?? all the help is appreciated, an thanks for bearing through this essay of my depressing 88 chevy. I also got a Ignition coil today, didn't get time to put it in, think might be any help??? sorry for my lack of knowledge, of what's what but I totally thank ya for your time!!
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Old 09-19-2013, 04:03 AM
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Did you check the fuel pressure. Some of them TBI systems run at a pretty high pressure.





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Old 09-19-2013, 07:32 AM
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Ignition Switch

Have you checked the Column mounted IGNITION SWITCH. It is adjustable and could have slipped out of adjustment if the screws are a bit loose. If it,s a fuel problem the engine will still crank same with ignition. A click is starter circuit from lock cylinder to ignition switch to starter (solenoid) and cables and grounds.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2013, 07:43 AM
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do you have any power anywhere? sounds like the positive wire going to the starter isn't hooked up right. maybe the connections are loose. if everything seems right and tight loosen them and re tighten
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Old 09-19-2013, 01:02 PM
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fuel pressure seems all but to strong, got a nice flow, but not exploding water main type.(not gushing pressure) I will delve into the fuel pump if I have too, but being that i can't get power...even to my headlights, i figure i might have an issue with battery cables or some connection somewhere..!
I do have amp reader, multimeter thingy. I was wondering what do i set it to in order to check each line to see if i got some internal corrosion?? I also did buy a new Ignition switch, haven't put it in yet...going to do it shortly today. Do ya think this could be the issue.?? so i should unhook starter an re-wire it back up?? I have a hard time, i have to unhook (un bolt) from rig, then wire up...does that seems like the correct steps? again thanks for your time an effort. please bear with me in this struggle....thanks a million guys an gals!!
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2013, 01:16 PM
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if the battery terminals are side post take them loose and check for corrosion. there is less contact with side post than there is with top post do corrosion plays a big part.

just a thought....... Is the battery hooked up correctly, + to + and - to -? check all your fuses also. I am pretty sure on these trucks on the passenger side firewall inside the engine compartment there is a couple of fusible link wires coming from the same place as the fuel pump fuse and relay, May wanna check them out.......
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2013, 01:47 PM
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I will check fuses now under there for sure.. is there a way to test them with amp reader thing? and I DO have side post on the battery, the + is a little stripped on the wire to batter portion, i still got 2 good threads to hold it in tight, but the threads inside battery terminal are still good, an both look clean, to be sure I took a brush to them an the wire connections also. Nice an clean still get nothing...thought about taking the wire back some, strip it from behind the cable post to see if i got internal corrosion, was hoping I could check wire without removing any plastic. some folks said a bad cable could be giving me this hell.....
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