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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2013, 04:20 PM
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Do i have to remove the steering wheel to get to that darn ignition switch? I was just in there for the lock cylinder an didn't see anything that looks remotely like my replacement piece..... I've seen some diagrams but the ones i saw were really vague. Still I got under the steering wheel an popped off the lower portion of dash to see the wires n such, i have some bolts hiding what seems to be part of the steering rod or what ever is behind the bolted plate. I found some loose electronic clips an removed an snapped them back in snug. Hook battery up, check the wattage, got 12.4 on it. Jumped in the rig an got NOTHING again, not even lights, no door beep nothing....LAME! so I've been trying to google my amp reader thing to get proper instructions on how to set it to check a wire, good or not type thing. I don't have a beep one, although it does have a digital read out. I do have ohms, (which is what i thought you have to check wires with) please let me know if i'm chasing the wrong scent down this trail....thanks a million, I would love to be out riding dirt bikes or fixing my snow machine before winter hits, I can see my breath while working on this rig. Snow is coming!!! and i don't want this to be a pain in my side when snow is here.....thanks a million without ya guys' i'd be up a creek without a paddle.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2013, 04:23 PM
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Has this engine turned over by the battery since you started this thread? Do you know how to hot wire the starter from the battery?
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2013, 05:17 PM
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I think your chasing your tail on the ignition switch. Have you checked all the fuses? Before your removed the battery and starter you had lights and the starter clicked. Something that you hooked back up doesn't seem to be hooked back up right. Did you double check that you have the battery hooked up correctly? There is also a smaller wire that goes from the negative side of the battery to the frame and the large negative cable should go to the engine block. check to see if you have twelve bolts at the power wire where it connects to the starter. there should also be another wire going from your starter to the ignition switch. make sure this wire is hooked up. does the fuel pump run, radio work, horn work, anything?
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2013, 06:53 PM
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Is there any fuses under the hood? or all under steering wheel area ? thanks
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2013, 07:08 PM
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I think the only fuse that isn't next to the steering column in the cab is the fuel pump fuse, which is on the firewall above the heater core lines. did you check out the fusible link wires?
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2013, 07:09 PM
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one large ground goes from battery to body frame near headlight (passenger side), an goes to frame/chassis (also passenger side). Then instead of going to engine block i got it going to the alternator bracket an ac fan bracket i think it is. belt is not on ac pulley, which i'm okay with. but is this not being connected to block maybe messing with me?
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2013, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crussell85 View Post
I think the only fuse that isn't next to the steering column in the cab is the fuel pump fuse, which is on the firewall above the heater core lines. did you check out the fusible link wires?
Sorry for sounding silly but what are fusible link wires? how would i test these, or should i say what setting would I set the multimeter too?
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2013, 07:56 PM
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http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/24mz...50-reason.html
read this.....
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2013, 01:41 PM
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64nailhead, no I don't know how to hot wire from starter. all info would be gladly accepted. So I dropped my steering wheel column trying to get to the ignition switch, which i can see but no way in hello' can i get my hands in there. I took of plastic dash board console thing cover around the gauges off. No better still can't get to it....I had to drop this plastic heater vent to to reach under it. Removed the 2 support bolts an lowered it down.
People said to "support it" mine is supported but not sure why we do this? it doesnt' want to hit the floor it does sag if i let it, still gives me no more working room... I really dig the info crussell85 although I did a wire search and went and bought a wire diode thing.( check connections by lighting up the ice pick looking thing) check out power cables, good.
Checked out batter to starter, good.! Checked starter to fuse box, I got a good wire but can't check inside fuse box connection, i just clamped the wire an poked the other end...(connection may not be good but the length of wire is good)
Checked from alternator to starter I think it was. good also!!
Checked all the gounds that i can reach to make sure the wires were in good shape, ALSO good.... So i've narrowed it down to the ignition switch.. now upon my digging i found what i think could be issues, i took sum photos so i can show ya guys. thanks a million for the help an follow up...

If ya get a second check out the diagram posted by crussell85 I can't find the red wire ontop of diagram, it's hard to see under the dash(or at least where i'm looking, if i'm off location let me know thanks) for extra info I got a automatic. if it helps........I don't want to take this to the mechanic i know he's gonna kill me on hours an it'll probably be something i could have fixed...!!!!

I'm trying to upload pics, i'll be right back to it. having issues....
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2013, 01:55 PM
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first one is fuse box engine side of firewall, seems burnt to me...not sure what it should look like but this didn't seem be normal.
Second one is the burn male portion on my alternator, it clips onto the top. I noticed all this while checking each single wire to the main connection points...
Third is burnt female portion of that alternator clip..looks toast, now i wasn't able to check the fuse box relay from one side of firewall to the second side, inside the cab,, but i did put that light probe on this burnt looking clip an it was good. Good can you believe that??!!!
Last one is the fuse box inside the cab under the dashboard, also seems to have some dark burnt look to it?, is think some sealant or what looks random not placed there on purpose it seems.!! thanks a million
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2013, 03:25 AM
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Did you get this running yet?
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2013, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrostbiteRodders View Post
is there a way to test your alternator without the rig turning over?? thanks a million
NAPA on Dowling will test it for free...the old Shucks (CSK now?) behind Diamond Center will as well.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2013, 01:42 PM
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2013, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64nailhead View Post
Did you get this running yet?
No nailhead not running yet, i post on FB for any one local to come check it out, I"m not in Anchorage, so i can't do the service option, i can take it to one here.(forgot name who suggested that, glad to see Alaskan on here)
I'm afraid if i take it to the shop they will spend hours doing what i just did, despite me telling them what i've done. Then it'll be a small fix i could have done my self, with a huge bill from the shop at the end. I'm almost there to that point!! really bugging me but winter is CLOSE! i feel it as i'm crawling this beast poking an prodding everything.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2013, 07:28 AM
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any updates?
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