[fearsomefairmont]

Hi folks,
I have purchased a set of 1970 cleveland 4v heads, open chamber (better for pump gas), and am trying to decide a game plan for a motor build. I was contemplating either building
1. a strong 351 cleveland w/4 bolt mains but it seems that the blocks are prone to cracking, need serious oiling mods to live, and are darn expensive, including parts.
2. a 351 clevor, with forged 3.5 in stroke crank and stock length forged rods, and either KB or TRW clevor pistons, topped off with a clevor manifold from price motorsports. Or, as was suggested in a previous post, use a 3.85 in stroke windsor crank, 289 length rods, and boss 302 style pistons (yielding ~393 cubes?).

Is there any other options available, or is either of these better? Any thoughts are appreciated, I have done most of my homework but am trying to uncover any subtle advantages to either. Either of this setups should yield alot of horsepower for my '78 2-dr fairmont (currently has built 302, can we say real sleeper?)
Thanks again.

[4 Jaw Chuck]

The stock Cleveland block will be cheaper, how much money you got.

Some junkyard scouting/Buy @ Sell luck might score you a good used block, the oiling mod can be done with a drill, a tap and a drilled plug for the restrictor...no rocket science involved. Haven't seen to many cracked blocks but I have seen a few cracked factory forged cranks. Usually because they have been beat on...severely.

Maybe some of our Aussie friends could send us Cleveland fans in the Northern hemisphere some good used castings by boat, they are getting scarce up here.

Preferably some HO versions please.

[woodz428]

While I agree about oiling mods for extended high rpms, I don't agree with the cracking. I've got 6 Clevelands and none are cracked and have has at least that many more in the past,no cracks. You may be confusing the early 400s that had that problem with the Cleveland, although they appear similar a 400/351M is not a Cleveland in most Ford guys mind.

[rifraf]

I've been entertaining the same build,I have also been told by a couple different people that oiling is a problem on the 351 Clev bottom end,I was also told that 4v heads flowed to much,but threw more research I found by increasing the displacement,stroke,It makes for one sweet package,wish I could say first hand.

[fearsomefairmont]

As a follow up,
Do you know where I could buy the oil restrictor kit for a cleveland, and what is a good source for a block? I have found them online (DSC motorsports or ebay, around $200-300, worn standard bore) but shipping is rather expensive.
Also, is it possible to stroke a 351 cleveland? I have heard that a 3.85 in stroke crank, 5.955 in rods, and a 1.3 in compression height piston makes 393 ci, and since I am beefing up the bottom end I figure why not get more cubic inches.
You guys truly are a wealth of info.
Thanks again.

[KULTULZ]

-MPG 351C Oiling Modification Kit-

[Stangpwr71]

Hey the Clevelands are awsome if you have any ?'s whatso-ever relating to the "C" and some that are not go here

http://www.network54.com/Hide/Forum/119419

It is a forum dedicated to the Cleveland

[mustangman1968]

id prefer just 351 windsor because of the massive amount of parts avaible

[400C53F100]

Instead of stroking the Cleveland, just get a 400 block, stroke it to 427. use it with your 4V Cleveland head.




http://hotrodders.com/gallery/showph...cat=500&page=1

[rifraf]

Aren't the newer 5.8/Windsors roller? They must be lighter anyway,and you get to keep the small bell housing and mounts if that matters. I did ride in a 1/2 ton 400 truck with 4v C heads and a 280 comp cam and it was impressive for the money he had in it.

[mustangman1968]

yeah the newer 5.8s do have the hydraulic roller cam same as the fuel injcetion 5.0s

[Choctaw Bob]

I would use a late model 5.8 roller block. An earlier block can be modified by adapting the inexpensive roller kit available from Ford Racing. Then you can use all the cheap HP cams from the 5.0.
The cleveland heads will bolt on if you drill all the water passage holes. The main problem is a shortage of intake manifolds. The last time I checked there was one small company making an intake for the combination of Cleveland heads on a Windsor block. .
Low speed velocity is a problem with the 4V heads. The ports are so huge that the intake flow is lazy at low RPM. Restrictor plates used to be available when this engine was commonly hot rodded. Running 4.56 gears helps this some.
The best head for the street is the 2V head. These work well at all RPMs.

[xntrik]

Originally Posted by fearsomefairmont

Hi folks,

I have purchased a set of 1970 cleveland 4v heads, open chamber (better for pump gas),

Thanks again.

That is an old-wives-tale from 35 years ago.

Closed chamber heads with flat top pistons of reasonable compression increase the quench and increase detonation resistence. All the newer engines have strong quench for swirl.

Personaly I would stick to the W series. Better W heads are available that makes the stock type C heads look poor.

[Choctaw Bob]

Originally Posted by xntrik

That is an old-wives-tale from 35 years ago.

Closed chamber heads with flat top pistons of reasonable compression increase the quench and increase detonation resistence. All the newer engines have strong quench for swirl.

Personaly I would stick to the W series. Better W heads are available that makes the stock type C heads look poor.

Very true. The 4 barrel open chamber cleveland heads cam really flow at high lifts. People used these engines in all kinds of race cars in the 70s and early 80s until the after market availability of high quality aluminum windsor heads that will flow at high lifts and still maintain good velocity at lower lifts. These heads produce just as much power and have a much better and flatter power band.

[KULTULZ]

The best way (IMO) of building a CLEVOR is 4V (open) heads on a late (F4TE) 351W block. Use the 351C crank and adaptor plates to mount EFI.

Just like a sore chicken...You can't beat it...