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Old 08-17-2010, 10:27 AM
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Which 351W block

Hi there

This is to be a semi long term project/learning experience for me.

Going to be rebuilding a Ford 351W, don't think it is out realistic, would like to go for 350-400 hp, welcome to tell me I'm crazy on this for first build, also don't know what my budget will be so might just stretch it out to make budget.


Now the first thing to do is to find a donor engine, anything special, any special year I should try and find/look out for.

Thinking the newer the block the better.

I'm the type that rather go slow and do right compared to go fast...

G

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Old 08-17-2010, 03:26 PM
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If you could get a hold of a 69/70 year block that would be great.JMO
Tow of the best years for the windsor. JMO Someone might say different but it's true, Finding the 69/70 year might be the hard part though.
Whats the engine going in? Oh i seen your intro so it's going in a boat.

Cole

Last edited by eloc431962; 08-17-2010 at 03:33 PM.
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Old 08-17-2010, 06:47 PM
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Anything pre-'78 which is when Ford went to the small valve heads. But with that said, there are two block deck heights. The '69-'70 engines were 9.480 and everything later was 9.5 and is preferred.

You really want an engine with the D0OE or C90E heads for the larger valves and the least restriction.

There is a myth that says the early engines were stronger due to a higher nickle content - there is absolutely no conclusive proof ever been found that proves that

Another thing to remember - some boat engines rotate opposite a car engine so camshafts and accessories have to be chosen correctly.

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Old 08-18-2010, 01:32 AM
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Hi there

Ok so I have to look at pre 78 (valves went smaller), but post 70 (because of block deck height).

MY wish would be to use the heads that came with machine, but never know me, might just go and buy after market heads, which I assume then removes the "pre 78" criteria?

If I go with stock heads look for D0OE or C90E stamped units.
thx.
G
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Old 08-18-2010, 05:28 AM
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That's right. And yes there are other minor considerations to but those are a thumbnail description of what I and many others have found works best. With that said, find your engine and we can help you with more information when you tear into your upgrade.

One more stock type head to consider is the GT40P found on many Ford Explorers and other SUV's though it will need a minor bolt hole modification to bolt on the block. The big positive here is that these heads have hardened valve seats for low-no lead gasoline.

Happy engine hunting
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Old 08-18-2010, 06:10 AM
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I would look for a post 94 block. It will be roller ready. Also all blocks after I think 1984 have a one piece rear seal which I would also prefer. The short deck height on the older blocks can be a pain especially for strokers.

For stock heads get some GT40 from Explorer. The GT40P can give some problems with headers due to spark plug location. The early 69 and 70 heads have smaller chambers and slightly bigger valves, but will need work to get to unleaded fuel friendly. The E7 heads also from later 5.0 Mustangs also can flow pretty well. A 351 will greatly benefit from aftermarket heads. Most Ford heads really suck for flow.
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Old 08-18-2010, 09:33 AM
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Hi there

So i'm back at getting a block with the right deck height, other words a post 70. If I go for a pre 78 block/head (D0OE or C90E) then I can use the head i got, if the block is post 78 block then work with getting a new head so that I can get bigger valves, which it seems everyone is suggesting anyhow,
I got easy access to a Lead Replacement petrol.

Whats the thing with Deck height? What does it mean in my life.

RCM800 came now up with go for post 84 (one piece rear seal) and post 94 (explain:It will be roller ready), which is allot newer than a post 70 or post 78. I'm guessing newer will imply easier to find maybe.

With all that said, how do I identify the head.

G
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Old 08-18-2010, 10:07 AM
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Any 351W basic block is essentially the same except for the deck height. Rebuild parts, i.e. pistons are more accessible for the high deck block.

If you choose to use a roller cam, then the late block is best. A steel roller camshaft arrangement along with lifters and push rods is quite a bit more expensive then a standard cast camshaft, standard hydraulic lifters and conventional push rods.

Regardless of which way you go, you should consider screw in rocker arm studs on any of the heads. The older engines have interference pressed in studs, the newer rocker arms have a bolt instead which, IMO is too small though I've never had a failure. There might be a couple other modifications to the heads, but we can discuss after you find the engine and we know what you have.

As far as a one piece rear seal - that's nice item, but hardly essential. I have never out of literally dozens that I've done had a seal problem using the two piece.

Not sure what lead replacement petrol consists of as it might be only a performance enhancer or actually help keep the valve seats cooler as the old leaded gasoline.

One more item - will you be using an electric or mechanical fuel pump? There are different front engine covers. The mechanical pump cover has a boss to mount the pump, the later fuel injected cars don't and use an electric pump mounted in the gas tank.


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Old 08-18-2010, 10:33 AM
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Hi there

Lead Replacement Petrol is a Petrol mix that we have available that can be used in older cars that used old lead petrol, it does not contain lead but works like a leaded petrol all protection etc without environment damage.

I want to go carb based so guessing easier to use a mechanical pump... less cabling/simpler, maybe another day another build in future->electric pump.

I'm in the market for a good workshop manual, any suggestions. considering my above questions, might buy 2, one that straight down about assembly and maybe a second thats more about performance.
G
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Old 08-18-2010, 03:52 PM
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All in all regardless of deck height all the yr blocks that have been mentioned are good blocks to build IMHO. Weather it be a 69 or up to 78. I have a few of both and are great foundations for a great engine. JMO
Good luck with which ever block you can find. And it's true about the 69/70 heads also and it will be in your best interest if you can't locate these heads,
then god with a good after-market head. Again JMO.



Cole
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Old 08-18-2010, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eloc431962
All in all regardless of deck height all the yr blocks that have been mentioned are good blocks to build IMHO. Weather it be a 69 or up to 78. I have a few of both and are great foundations for a great engine. JMO
Good luck with which ever block you can find. And it's true about the 69/70 heads also and it will be in your best interest if you can't locate these heads,
then god with a good after-market head. Again JMO.



Cole
Cole - just remember this OP is in South Africa and 351's might be in short supply -
Dave W
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Old 08-18-2010, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
Cole - just remember this OP is in South Africa and 351's might be in short supply -
Dave W
Thank's Dave, Good catch i didn't notice where the OP was from.



Cole
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Old 08-19-2010, 01:06 PM
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Hi there

True, me way way far away in South Africa. So wanting a block of the year I want is a big wish, just finding a block is problem #1. and then whatever parts I want is imports. heavy imports with big bills for shipping cost. so a pre 78 block gives me the right head which means i can pay a bit more for the block, if post 78 then i need to remember I will prob be looking at buying a good head and the associated costs.

Looking at the first page I saw a note about serial numbers, can someone give me a bit more explanation how to read it, so far I got this out of the listing:

69-74 351W BLOCK ID # VIN CODE "H" SHORT BLOCK ONLY
C9OE- D1AE- D2AE-

Notes: CARB, W/O TE

75-76 351W BLOCK ID # VIN CODE "H" HEAD ID #
D4AE- D9AE- D5AE-, D5TE-

Notes: CARB, W TE

77-83 351W BLOCK ID # VIN CODE "H,G" HEAD ID #
D4AE- D9AE- D5TE-, D7OE-, D8OE-

Notes: 2-B CARB, W TE Heads, Uses 2-pc. rear seal until 7/11/83, front cover or pan mounted dipstick

80-83 351W BLOCK ID # VIN CODE "G" HEAD ID #
E3AE- E4AE- D8OE-, D8TE-, D9AE-, E5AE-

Notes: HO-CARB, W/TE, 1 pc. rear seal, front cover or pan- mounted dipstick

83-86 same as above

Notes: 2-B CARB, W/TE, 1 pc. rear seal from 7/11/83, front cover or pan mounted dipstick

84-88 351W BLOCK ID # VIN CODE "G" same as above

Notes: HO-CARB, W/TE, double roller timing chain, front cover or pan mounted dipstick

89-91 351W BLOCK ID # VIN CODE "G" HEAD ID #
E4AE- E9AE- D8OE-, D8TE-, D9AE-, E5AE-

For all the above I assume the numbers shows is the block ID's for the years mentioned, Vin code is easy to identify, but there is a column shown for head id# but I can't identify what this is suppose to be, other than the head id's mentioned in a previous post of what I should try and find.

which work shop manuals do you guys use/recommend.

Thanks for the help so far.
G
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:33 AM
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Hi all

Update time,

Got myself a cut out long block.

Block carries number E4AE-6015-FA-5 and 6M19
According to engine codes this makes it a 80-83

The head carries number: E5AE CA

The local parts dealer seems to have some nice offers on AFR heads.
Still taking all apart.
G
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Old 09-02-2010, 01:19 PM
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Sounds like you found a decent block. Take pictures (and dimensions) as you disassemble the engine.

As far as the original heads - probably make good door stops especially if you have a chance for AFR's at a decent price. Just watch the compression ratio and your ability to find good enough gasoline without additives.

Dave W
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