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Old 03-11-2009, 08:43 PM
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355 build

i am planning on building a 355 street/strip engine with a six inch rod and 11 to 1 compression would it be better to build a newer model block with provisions for roller cam or use the 1971 350 block i already have
also what would be the best rotating assembly to use im on a budget so i need it budget minded i can spend the extra money on the newer model block or on the roller setup for the older model

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Old 03-11-2009, 09:40 PM
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Well you can go about it anyway you want, if you are on a budget, here's what I would do...

Go with the block you have so you don't have to buy a newer one piece block (I assume you don't already have one)

Scrap the idea of a roller cam (although Competition Products has a fairly reasonable retro-fit pkg for around $500) Get a hydralic flat (I would prefer a solid with edm solid lifters)

Go the 383 route since you are in the market for a rotating assembly.

Spend your money on the some good heads.
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Old 03-11-2009, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenYnNC
Well you can go about it anyway you want, if you are on a budget, here's what I would do...

Go with the block you have so you don't have to buy a newer one piece block (I assume you don't already have one)

Scrap the idea of a roller cam (although Competition Products has a fairly reasonable retro-fit pkg for around $500) Get a hydralic flat (I would prefer a solid with edm solid lifters)

Go the 383 route since you are in the market for a rotating assembly.

Spend your money on the some good heads.
good advice!
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Old 03-12-2009, 05:24 AM
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Why 11 to 1 compression? It won't run on pump gas at 11-1 and if you've got to run race gas you might as well take advantage and run it at 13 to 1. It will make more power. Otherwise I agree with the previous posts, except--
Hydraulic lifters are for girls.
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Old 03-15-2009, 12:25 PM
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thanks for all the good advice
11 to 1 compression seems to run alright with 91 octane in my dads mustang with a 351c 4v so thats what i want
so i guess 383 with solid cam would be a good choice but dont you have to adjust them all the time
btw on a budget stroker kit wouldn't you have to get a small base circle cam or can you modify i beam rods
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Old 03-15-2009, 03:27 PM
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good advise i think. definitely stroke your motor if youre buying a new rotating assembly. 11-1 is iffy on pump/carb combination. will be close. easier to run pump gas with fuel injection and that cr.
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Old 03-15-2009, 06:01 PM
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Use a Scat cast steel crank and I-beams. Their rods use a capscrew instead of bolt/nut and will clear the cam with no clearancing required. Some clearancing may be necessary for the big end of the rod at the oil pan rail, then again, maybe not. Every block is a little different.

As far as running 11:1 on pump gas, set the squish very tight, 0.035" to 0.040" and counsel with your cam grinder to choose a cam with the proper intake valve closing point to yield the proper maximum cylinder pressure for pump gas.
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Old 03-16-2009, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
Use a Scat cast steel crank and I-beams. Their rods use a capscrew instead of bolt/nut and will clear the cam with no clearancing required. Some clearancing may be necessary for the big end of the rod at the oil pan rail, then again, maybe not. Every block is a little different.

As far as running 11:1 on pump gas, set the squish very tight, 0.035" to 0.040" and counsel with your cam grinder to choose a cam with the proper intake valve closing point to yield the proper maximum cylinder pressure for pump gas.

And run steep gears with a loose stall or a manual.
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Old 03-16-2009, 11:59 AM
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i currently have a 2700 stall and 373 gears
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Old 03-16-2009, 10:11 PM
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my 400 was 11.13 to 1 with 3.31 gears, 3000 stall 3050lbs, and it ping'd off the line on 93 octane. i would think about 10 to 1.
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Old 03-17-2009, 11:45 AM
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not 10.5 to 1 what about the 6 inch rod and the solid cam
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Old 03-17-2009, 12:30 PM
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Let's go back to square one. In the first place, if I were building a street/strip small block Chevy, I would not be starting with an early 2-piece seal, flat tappet block. Chevy began producing one-piece seal, roller tappet motors in '87 and I have seen the blocks for sale for $100 or less, some complete with dog bones and spider, some even with the lifters for that money.

I also would not be trying to build an 11:1 or 10.5:1 motor if I had to run it on pump gas swill. You can make plenty of power with 9.5:1 to 10.0:1, using a streetable cam and operating off pump gas with no problems.

I also would not be using 6 inch rods. Their length puts the wrist pin up into the oil ring land and you have to use filler spacers in the pin bores to provide support for the rings and to prevent the ends of the oil rings from falling back into the pin bores if they rotate around the piston (which they will).

Roller block, L31 heads, 9.5:1-10.0:1 static c.r., 0.035"-0.045" squish, hydraulic roller cam (good to about 6200 with roller hydraulic lifters before they pump up) with around 230 degrees duration @ 0.050" tappet lift, Scat cast steel crank, Scat 5.7" I-beam capscrew rods.

Don't try to make life any harder than it is.
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Old 03-17-2009, 02:38 PM
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what r l31 heads
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Old 03-17-2009, 03:47 PM
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L31 Vortec. '96-'98 Chevy truck with 5700 Vortec V8 or buy new at any Chevy dealer, part number 12558060, casting number 12558062. With stock springs and retainers, they are lift limited to 0.450", so use a cam with that or less lift at the valve or change springs and retainers for more lift. Read all you can about them with a search on this forum.....like this....
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/sear...archid=2445471
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Old 03-17-2009, 08:35 PM
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i couldn't find a 350 hyd roller core for less than 400 in orlando
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