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Old 12-18-2012, 02:03 AM
Deathmunchy Deathmunchy is offline
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Cam: Howards Cams Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Camshaft and Lifter Kits CL111815-10 - SummitRacing.com

As far as the machine work questions. Anything I can do I want to do. Not want to save money on. I want to do this. To me having to pay someone else to do work I could do is alienating myself from the project. Also as a note. My father will be helping. He has been a mechanic for 25+ years. Has an abundance of tools and we have discussed this. Anything I think I can not do accurately enough He is more than happy to assist with.

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Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Static compression ratio 11.50:1 using those pistons. What will you use for fuel?
The highest octane fuel I can afford. Apparently I can get 11x from the track out here. I'm hoping this will keep combustion problems out of the way. Please let me know if I'm misleading myself.
I also understand higher octane does not=higher power.
I'm also going to have an approximate 9.1-9.3 DCR.

Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
IK200 heads can be had with either OEM size 1.250" valve springs or aftermarket 1.437" springs. Do you know the size of the spring pockets? Your head improvement kit includes 1.437" springs. If the heads are cut for 1.250", you will have some machine work to do.
I think the bare spring pockets are 1.250. I will hopefully have the tools available to do make them the appropriate sizes accurately.

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Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Do you understand that the valve seats are not finished on these heads? You will have some machine work to do.
Yes
Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Do you understand that you cannot run the valve springs directly on the aluminum head. I don't see where you have taken spring cups into consideration.
Spring cups are something I'm going to start reading about shortly as I have not heard of them from before this. I assumed I would need some sort of spring seat. I also assumed the head rebuild kit came with that. When I got the kit I would probably notice this and then start looking and asking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Do you understand that the rocker studs you are buying are 7/16". I'm bettin' the heads are tapped for 3/8-16 and you will have more machine work to do.
Does tapping it out have to be done with precision machinery? Secondly I was under the impression where the studs went into the head the threads were still 3/8ths however the stud the rocker went around was where it was 7/16th. I think this was adressed but I would like to make doubly sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Do you understand that you cannot run a shim gasket with aluminum heads and iron block?
I did not know about the shim gasket. So it is better like I was asking to have the heads milled and use a .04" gasket or equivalent?

Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Do you understand that you can buy all this stuff ready to bolt on without machine work. You will pay the price for this motor, whether it's to the manufacturer who will finish the product so that it will go together without further work or you will pay less for semi-finished stuff and pay a local machinist to finish it for you. There is no free lunch. You will pay somebody.
Yes, I understand this. Any tips as to tools I may need would be appreciated. 3 angle valve jobs are apparently 20$ a port. I also havent been able to locate any equipment or something where I could do this myself without spending something similar to the price of the motor.

Thanks for the helpful questions. Especially the seat cups. Going to go read about those now. Really appreciate it.
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