[roadtriprod]

Can anyone direct me to a web site or have info on using an S 10 frame on a 1936 Ford 2 door sedan? How much work was it? How does it fit and look??

What frame would I use for a fenderless 1934 olds 2 door sedan rat rod?I like the simplicity of the S 10 but I have 2 30's chevy frames, 41 ford frame with running gear and also the34 olds and 36 ford frame. I need to find the S-10, Izuzu, luv or ranger chassis.

[low budget rodder]

I'm not sure about a site that shows the S10 chassis with your specific vehicles, but I would love to see the vehicles and know what condition you are starting with for your projects... based on how bad your vehicle is to start, helps me to determine what chassis "goes" best with the car. any pics?

[OneMoreTime]

I recently parted out an S-10 and the only parts i saved from the chassis was the front crossmember and the rear end..those are usable in a rat rod the rest of it went to scrap as the S-10 has a bunch of uly bends in the area of the cab..unseen in the stock S-10 but sure hang out there on a fenderless Rat..

Sam

[bulldogmafia]

I am NOT, repeat NOT trying to make you feel bad or disrespect you in any way or fashion, that said, just ask any older rod builder, myself included, and you DONT want to run a S-10 frame, or anything late model framewise - "fenderless". You probably wont like the look when you are done and most of all, there wont be much of a resale value. Just check on this great site, some of the other sites, even that E thing that people sell stuff on, fenderless cars with a late model set of frame horns and "A" frames sticking out of it, no-one is jumping to buy them. I hope that helps and you dont take the opinion the wrong way, I know I speak for MANY others, JUST TRYING TO HELP, GOOD LUCK with your build!!

[dinger]

I don't believe there is an easy solution here, IMO the easiest would be to use the stock fram and modify. A late model chassis, by the time you try to make things look decent, will be terribly time consuming and possibly expensive. There has been a few pics posted here with that modification done, IMO they looked terrible. Like OMT says, he didn't get a lot of parts from his experience. Just another opinion, Dan

[cboy]

There have been many discussions about using a mini truck chassis under an early 30's body...use the search function (above) to get a really well rounded view.

That being said, its entirely up to you what "look" you are after. But Bulldog is right about resale value and general acceptance of mini truck frames among hot rodders.

The problem is making them look decent in a fenderless car. Here are a couple examples.

This is an 84 Mazda pickup chassis that I attempted to use for an open wheel street rod. I gave it up after making many modification...none of which seemed to cover up the massive front suspension and non-traditional look of the frame.



Next is a little rat rod on a late 80's Nissan chassis. I talked to the owner but he was not the original builder, so he couldn't tell me what, if any, modifications had been made to the chassis. He did indicate the chassis was quite dependable and provided a nice ride. So the only question here is whether this "look" appeals to you.



And this is an Isuzu pickup chassis. Probably about the best looking of the lot if you want an open wheel car.



I don't have a shot of an S10, but it would be somewhat similar to the first two pictures above.

If I were in your shoes, I think I'd go with one of the Chevy frames you have or build a simple rectangular tube frame. Now if you opt for a full fendered car, then I think one of the mini truck frames might start looking like a better option...if you can find one that fits the width of your cowl.

[matt167]

IMO, the Nissan frame looks better than the Izuzu frame, but the Nissan frames are prone to rusting in 2..

[roadtriprod]

Wow that shure puts the UG in UGLY! Thanks for the come to Jesus talk!

[Big Don]

Why the S-10 idea? Using the GM 70's-80's auto chassis gets rid of those lousy leaf springs in the rear.

With the coils front and the 4 link coil over in the rear it is a better ride and handling package. Also it becomes much easier to dial in ride height and handling package by simply using a spring cross-reference book to select the spring that suits your needs the best. No trial and error stuff this way and for around $60 you get what you need. Try figuring out the spring loads and ride height specs. with leaf springs. Now, think about how much time and work is involved with changing leaf springs.... OUCH!

I've never been under the impression that a S-10 suspension was very good for anything. But, thats just my opinion.

I think the only real trick as far as what frame set-up to use is the width between the wheels front and rear. As far as the frame width diff. between the original frame and the donor frame, one need only come relatively close. The donor frame can be adjusted very easily to end up with an exact alignment. Remember that the frame lap-over must be 6'' or greater and should be welded by someone who knows what they are doing. Best to align the frame with good measurements and then tack weld, and then remeasure everything before making the finished and final welds.

I usually use butcher paper, hang it on the shop wall and then loft-up the original lines of the stock build car, along with the original ride height , length, width, cross measurements.... well you get the idea. Then I loft the lines of what I want to end up with when I'm done with the new build. To avoid twist or rack it is best to weld a measurement point on the original section in several locations to get exact measurements. Measuring is easy, mistakes are costly.

[NEW INTERIORS]

I wouldn't waste my time putting a S-10 under anything, It is to easy to build a frame,That way you can have what you want.

[MARTINSR]

I think what it comes down to is people thinking it is easier, well it isn't!

The second most popular reason I see for swapping frames is to make it ride like a new car. Personally, I don't want it to! If I want to be in a new car, I'll hop in my late model. But that is just me.

But honestly, the rat rod thing has brought on a whole new dimension, that is something that hasn't been in hot rodding in years, "instant gratification".

I mean, come on, what else are we going to get from a generation who grew up with fast food, microwave brownies and 200 channels on tv with cartoons 24-7!

Hot rodding has always been about sweat and blood and taking months or years to get it on the road. Now, get yourself a rusty 30 Dodge body and throw it on a 1990 S-10 frame, bolt in a couple of dining chairs and you have a "rat rod", instant gratification!

Sorry, it isn't for me, I want to "create" something not throw a bunch of rusted parts in a pile and call it a car.

Brian

[Chevrolet4x4s]

You might use a Nissan frame like PaulM did


Tips on hot rod frame building
I found a similar one at a junkyard for a good price & am going to pick it up Monday. I'm going to use the rails & narrow it down to the proper width & shorten it to the proper length, I'll have to narrow the cross members,But It'll be less work & cost than going with 2x3 tubing.
Of course I am building my own body also.
Shane

[MARTINSR]

That is a whole different story, he MADE it work. When finished it looks like a vintage frame. I still do see doing this when you have a 36 Ford coupe or sedan, but with a truck that worked well.

Just to clairify, I am beating on the guys that leave the frame stock and stick some rusty vintage body on it. The real jokes are the ones with the stock late model motor that even has the "original" grime and paint on it.

Brian

[cboy]

Originally Posted by Chevrolet4x4s

...I found a similar one at a junkyard for a good price & am going to pick it up Monday.

Great to see you are continuing to make progress Shane. Do you intend to keep the stock front suspension pieces? Here's a close up I snatched from PaulM's build. It appears he is using the stock components...although he doesn't say in his journal for sure. Not the greatest angle in this shot, but it's the best one I could find. I'm including it just so others thinking about his option can see how it might look.

[Chevrolet4x4s]

Originally Posted by cboy

Great to see you are continuing to make progress Shane. Do you intend to keep the stock front suspension pieces? Here's a close up I snatched from PaulM's build. It appears he is using the stock components...although he doesn't say in his journal for sure. Not the greatest angle in this shot, but it's the best one I could find. I'm including it just so others thinking about his option can see how it might look.

Thanks Dewey
I believe that PaulM used jag suspinson up front also.
I'm going with a solid axle on mine,It'll get a little heat wrenching tomorrow. Take whats left of the front suspension off, Coilovers(rather large ones unfortunately) with tublar upper a arms & stamped bottom ones,no spindles though. But for $150 I can't complain,I plan onbeing there within 1/2 hour of opening, It should be there still, as there not sure what it fits, There was only about 4 hrs left of open time Thursday & all day Friday. I would have got it then but I needed to get some sleep before going to work(nightshift will be over after this month though ), Also picked up a front bed panel,that in all likely hood will be used for the tailgate,Has an embossed rectangle perfect for silverleafing "Quick Silver" onto.
Hows progress on your pickup going?
Shane