36 Ford Truck Wood Bed-Spacers to clear humps on flanges - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 07-29-2012, 12:13 PM
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36 Ford Truck Wood Bed-Spacers to clear humps on flanges

I've milled all of the teak for the bed and I am ready to order the polished strips with hidden fasteners. I have an installation problem I'm hoping someone has dealt with or can at least give me a good idea.

The '36 bed side flanges (see drawing) each have a hump at the wheel location that is nearly 1" high, and the driver's side has a hump by the fuel filler neck that is 3/4" high. Also the cross members are 3/16" below the flange, including the front edge of the rear cross member. The back edge of the rear cross member is 3/4" above the flanges.

I want the new bed wood to cover the full width of the bed, so I want to add some kind of 1" spacer to lift the new bed wood above these humps. That lifts the wood 1/4" above the highest part of the rear cross member. So along the back edge of the bed I am planning to use a teak board that runs 90* to the rest of the wood. I'll mill that one 1 3/4" thick to bring it up to the same height as my raised bed wood.

So, my question is, how do I put spacers in and still give the 1 1/4" hidden fasteners something to hold on to? The bottom side of the cross members will be just over 2" below the top of the bed - (3/4" board + 1" spacer + 3/16" drop to cross member + 3/16" thickness of crossmember = 2 1/8"). Can I bolt new cross members to the top of the flange that are 1" high? Or should they be welded? Has anybody dealt with this issue? Any ideas that might help me out would be appreciated.




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Old 07-29-2012, 01:57 PM
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I would go ahead and order the material and see just what they send for fasteners..A lot of times what they send is a common type of fastener which comes in various lengths so it for me would be off to someone like Mcmaster Carr or Tacoma Screw products in search of a more suitable bolt or fastener..If all else fails then some fab work is in order..the furring strips or shims can be some oak strips screwed to the cross pieces..

Sorry not a better answer but sometimes it is best to have all the pieces there and then we can get a better look see as to what we need to do..

Sam
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Old 07-29-2012, 06:41 PM
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This is what I've drawn up so far, but as you can see, even with the longest fasteners I've found, there's still a problem. It looks like I may need an entire sub frame welded up using aluminum channel - hopefully 1" aluminum channel is strong enough to not deflect over the 46" span.

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Old 07-29-2012, 06:48 PM
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Thanks for the help, Sam. The t-bolts in this hidden fastener system have a very flat square head (about 1 1/8" square is my guess). I've begun searching for longer replacements, but no luck yet. The stainless t-bolt kits for this system run $$$, so I'm trying to figure this out before I fork over the money. If I can find longer fasteners that work I think I'll be okay. If not I'm going to need to find someone to fab up a sub-frame ( more $$$)

Steve
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Old 07-30-2012, 05:36 PM
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Well I think if it were me I would be getting rid of those humps so I could install the wood down on the crosspieces like Henry intended..

Sam
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Old 08-03-2012, 06:15 AM
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Good news, of sorts. The folks at Pro's Pick, "WOW" Strips have 3" fasteners. I am ordering 28 of them along with 21 regular length fasteners and 7 of their "WOW Strips" - no side angles.
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:32 AM
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Well good..once you have the pieces in hand you can then lay them out for a dry run to see just where you go from here..

Sam
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