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'37 Ford pickup is progressing.

7K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  AZDoug 
#1 ·
Ordered TCI frame in April, it showed up July11,

Progress so far: (some out of order).
 

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#6 ·
Doug, interesting project. One thing though, NEVER, EVER use concrete blocks or wood to chock up anything heavy. Jackstands engineered for the job are the only things that should be used. Believe me, I'm 68 and everything still works because fellows smarter than me helped me to learn not to use concrete blocks and wooden blocks under cars.
 
#7 ·
Thank you for your concern, but if you look very closely at the picture, you can see the cab is supported from the rafters, by cables and backup ropes, and the concrete blocks and jackstands are a safety.

That was deemed the safest way,as I don't trust only overhead support unless it is some industrial lift, and even then I don't trust it.

I used the winch system I use to R&R the bed shell on my pickup for lifting the cab, and moved blocks and jackstands under each time the cab went a little higher. Additional 1000 pound tensile ropes were used at highest elevation as a third failsafe to backup the cable lift.

No way i would have let that cab just sit on stacked blocks, one good sideways push and it could have gone over.

Doug
 
#9 ·
bigdog7373 said:
That truck's awesome. What kind of engine? Just wondering, why didn't you use an old school engine instead of the usual chevy v8.

I had the 327 that came out of my Corvette sitting around with no other use for it.

As far as going old school, I assume you mean flathead ford, which would be really cool, but I want a nice driver streetrod, auto trans (200-4R), AC, PS, PB, etc.

Anymore a Chev SB IS old school, many auto parts stores have to special order in things like thermostat gaskets, and such.

Doug
 
#10 ·
AZDoug said:
Thank you for your concern, but if you look very closely at the picture, you can see the cab is supported from the rafters, by cables and backup ropes, and the concrete blocks and jackstands are a safety.
That was deemed the safest way,as I don't trust only overhead support unless it is some industrial lift, and even then I don't trust it.
I used the winch system I use to R&R the bed shell on my pickup for lifting the cab, and moved blocks and jackstands under each time the cab went a little higher. Additional 1000 pound tensile ropes were used at highest elevation as a third failsafe to backup the cable lift.
No way i would have let that cab just sit on stacked blocks, one good sideways push and it could have gone over.
Doug
Doug, I understand what you did and how you did it, that's not why I made the post. I wanted to make a statement early in this thread which says that concrete blocks and wooden blocks are not valid support devices. Youngsters looking here may see the photo without reading the accompanying text and think..."Hey, I saw 'em do it on the forum, it must be ok. I won't need that stuff that goes over the rafters."

I've read and heard too many horror stories about fellows who are crushed to death due to the failure of concrete blocks, then found by a family member.
 
#11 ·
techinspector1 said:
I've read and heard too many horror stories about fellows who are crushed to death due to the failure of concrete blocks, then found by a family member.

That is why, even supported from the top, and the blocks as safety support, I always had another person around as watch when I was cleaning up and painting the bottom of the cab. I don't trust anything above me unless is is on welded or bolted steel framing.

Doug
 
#14 ·
AZDoug said:
Update.

I have left a lot of pictures in between last post and now out, but the truck is back from paint.

It still needed the wiring harness installed and a bunch of assembly to do.

Doug
How do you like that rear suspension? Are you running a panhard bar?
I have a 38 Ford truck that is sitting on a Chevy S10 chassis. I want to change the rear suspension. I was debating between a four link and a trailing arm type setup.

Is your rear suspension one of those universal kits? Where did you buy it from?
 
#16 ·
Riot, that is a panhard bar in Doug's picture. Though it is a TCI set up, bet Air Ride Technology provided the 4 link set up. I have a 36 Pu with the Air Ride Technology Triangulated 4 bar with coil overs like Doug's and it is a very good handling ride as well as hooking up like Velcro. My coil overs are almost purely vertical which enhances the handling slightly. I built a 37 like Doug's on a Fatmans chassis, but used parallel leaf springs on it. I moved the top shock mounts outboard 2.5" from Fatmans location. A softer ride than my 36, but does not handle quite as well, nor does it hook up as good, as is to be expected. Sway bars on front and rear makes a big difference and highly recommend using them.

Nice job, Doug. My coupe has a 327 built to 300 Vette specs, but the Edelbrock Pro Flo EFI and big valves puts it up to the next level. Hope I did not take away from your thread.
 
#17 ·
Tree, i read your project posts on the '37 before I started mine and got some good insights, thanks.

The 327 i have in my truck was an L79 327 at one time (that used to be in my '61 Corvette for 30 years), i put Bowtie heads on it over 20 years ago, and then last year , before I put it in the '37, i put in a high lift, short duration hyd roller cam.. I had the motor sitting around unused, and decided a Holley 6210 spreadbore on top on an Edelbrock airgap manifold was the least expensive way to get the beast going.

200 4r trans, 3.50:1 gears in back.

I built a custom EFI setup for the new 427 small block my '61 Corvette, but for now, a carb will work fine on the '37, until i decide I need another EFI project. :) Maybe a F.A.S.T. or Motec brain for the ,37 in a year or five.

Doug
 
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