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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2008, 02:43 PM
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406 Setup

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Originally Posted by Double_v23
What kind of a block are you using, you are spending alot of money on internals, I would hope you would get an aftermarket block to hold it all together.
The motor is a fresh stock cast #511 4-bolt 30 over. By fresh I mean just been bored and now being clearance for first time. This engine is being built for 78 Monza drag car currently being built. Will probably run the 1/8 mile mostly but will make 1/4 mile passes eventually.

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2008, 03:13 PM
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I would expect you to split that block in half about halfway down the track the second time you launch it. The stock 400's were not very strong and the 4 bolts were the weaker of the castings. Ask CNC Block N/E what he thinks of the 4 bolt 400's and he will show you some pics where guys tore the mains right out of them. And they weren't doing the RPM's that you are planning to pull.
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Old 06-11-2008, 03:36 PM
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If you really want a nice little RPM loving package try a 4.125 bore with a 3.25 stroke. It yields 348 cu. in
From waaay back, but I dig that deal. I have a 3.26 stroke billet piece with intentions for a 400 based mill, +.040 for 355 CI. You know, grab a gear and wring it through some RPM on the way to church.
Buddy shop owner down the road runs a 377 in his camaro. No joke. It flat out rips with 1/4 mi times high 9's all motor. RPM KILLS, so keep that in mind. I personally like the 3.875 combo, always made plenty of TQ/HP for me, no matter. You can get a 3.48 stroke crank with the 400 main size and LJ or SJ rod, whatever you want. You need to come up with a specific goal for this motor, figure out how much track time and how much street time and go from there. Gears tire size trans weight heads cam intake etc etc etc. I'm looking at 10 400 mained 4340 cranks with strokes from 3.3, 3.35, 3.4, 3.48, 3.5, 3.562, 3.625 and 3.875 available for 5.7 or 6.0 rods. You can build your 400 beast into a variety of c.i. with more head options than you'll care to look at too. It's all in the COMBO, and it all works together... when you get it right. JMO One more thing you might consider, that being how much HP you make in the stock block. I've seen them over 700HP on motor but that's a crap shoot not to grenade. I've run them with 500+ and hit 'em with a 150-200 shot without trouble. All I'm going to add is to run it with a solid flat cam so it makes some noise.
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:30 PM
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Such a good argument...!

OK GURUS, HERE WE GO...
I WANT TO BUILD A QUICK "WINDING" MOTOR, MAXING OUT @ 62-6500 RPM I DONT WANT TO SPEND HUGE MONEY... AND I DONT WANT TO GO 140 MPH!

IM THINKING 377 (BIG BORE/SHORT STROKE)

AM BUILDING A 31 MODEL A ROD FOR STREET USE... TREMEC 5 SP, JAGUAR REAR W 3:70-ISH RATIO, 32INCH TALL CHEATER SLICKS.

THE WHOLE RIG SHOULD WEIGH LESS THAN 2000 #

NOW HERES THE KICKER, THE CAR CAME W A 671 ROOTS BLOWER AND 2 FOURS. SO IM PRESUMING THAT WILL MAKE UP FOR ANY LOW END TORQUE PROBLEMS.

I HAVENT BOUGHT HEADS YET BUT HAVE A NICE COMP ROLLER CAM THAT LIVES @ 2000-6500 RPM...

AM THINKING SOME SEMI MILD ALUM HEADS THAT WILL FLOW @ THESE RPM RANGES.

DO YA SEE ANY HOLES IN MY PLAN SO FAR??
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2012, 01:11 PM
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make a new thread just for yourself. ask why a big bore makes better/more power,ask about light weight rotating parts and short stroke Vs long stroke and slow throttle response,state N/A or boosted and get a bunch of answers that apply to your application. a 7 year old thread is not a good place to start
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