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Old 11-04-2003, 05:48 PM
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383

i have a stock 350 and i just purchased a new 383 crankshaft from eagle what else am i going to need to make this work(machining and pistons, rods ext..) you have all been verry helpfull so far im geting close to puting it all together thanks

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Old 11-04-2003, 06:07 PM
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you will need rods, depending on your budget 5.7-thru 6. whatever inches, then you will need pistons that match your stroke and rod setup, again depending on your budget, you can get cast-hypereutectic or forged in many styles and prices, you will also need rings, bearings, a harmonic damper (usually for a 400) and a flywheel(also 400). You will need to have this balanced.
As for machine work you will need to grind the lower inside of the chevy block and around the bottom of the cylinders, where ever things hit on trial assembly, get .050" clearance minimum (a paper clip works well) every block is different!! from this point you can do a lot of other things, parallel decking, line honing, it just depends on your budget. Horsepower costs money, step right up and we'll make some!!.
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Old 11-04-2003, 06:16 PM
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well more work than i was hoping for but thanks a lot im on a verry tight budget but i will have to find a way to get money i guess thanks for the reply
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Old 11-04-2003, 06:29 PM
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Well an economical rout for the budget minded would be get some used 400 con rods which go for almost nothing and have them reconditioned and get a set of stock 350 pistons.
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Old 11-04-2003, 06:34 PM
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Make sure your Eagle crank will clear the stock 400 rod 350 piston combo, most won't. Read the spec sheet.
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Old 11-04-2003, 07:37 PM
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Be sure to use chamfered bearings
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Old 11-04-2003, 09:40 PM
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Good point bob I wasn't thinking about it being an after market crank
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Old 11-05-2003, 03:06 PM
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ok thanks a lot for all of your help i will check the sheet and hopefully i can do this without spending too much money thanks a lot
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Old 11-05-2003, 04:31 PM
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350 pistons wont work, They will hit the crank counter weight. You will need special pistons that are shorter than a stock350. You will also have to knotch the top of the rod on one side to clear the cam lobes. You would be better off to just buy a Kit from summit or jegs and get it balanced. Even with a kit you must still grind the block and knotch the rods for clearence.
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Old 11-05-2003, 04:33 PM
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well i already bought the crank so i cant take it back because the shipping but i guess i will just buy new pistons and new rods but thanks for your help
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Old 11-05-2003, 07:10 PM
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5.7 rods fine!

You can surely use your 5.7 stock 350 rods.

Go to ebay, search for 383 speed pro pistons. Just about always can find skirt coated hypereutectic pistons quite reasonable (I think around $150 if I remember right?) that are designed for 5.7 rods and will give you from hi 8's to lo/mid 9's cr depending on head cc's. If using stock hi cc heads like 76 cc or something, check on Summit or Jegs for thinner head gaskets to get your piston to head quench surface closer to .040, which will also raise your cr. I think the ads on ebay say what cr you'll end up with when using stock .040+ thick compressed gaskets. Going to .015 or .018 will get you about 1 extra point compression. I think the place is Racer's Outlet. A really good cam that won't require to rev it beyond what a decent stock 2 bolt block and rods will take is a Comp Cams XE268 flat tappet hydraulic. They can make serious power without revving over 5500 and can be had just a titch over $150 for cam & lifters.
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Old 11-05-2003, 09:22 PM
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so with theese pistons i can bolt it all up? or will i still have to do some gringing? im sure i will but there is nothing i can do but save the money to do it thanks for your help i am still learning so thanks for teaching me stuff everyone
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Old 11-06-2003, 08:18 PM
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does anyone have any idea how much power and torque i will be making if i had desktop dyno i would do it myself but roughly i wil be having a 383 with 58 cc heads with 2.02 valves speed pro pistons, a good camshaft and edelbrock performer rpm intake and a holly 750 carb the rest is a stock zz4 crate motor thanks
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Old 11-07-2003, 01:37 AM
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i hate to be the one to tell you this but you don't have a zz4. that casting number, 10036033 goes to a 2 peice rear main gm crate motor. zz4's had 10243880 casting numbers. they were 1 peice rear main roller motors. your heads are probably 76 cc 1.94/1.50 which is going to change your compression a bit. i hate to see you order the wrong parts. that crank will clear pretty well i am told. on of my racing freinds used one with stock 350 rods and said he didn't have to grind much at all. get 383 pistons as mentioned above and it will go together without too much trouble. wou will need to send your crank, pistons, rods, flex plate, harmonic balancer, rings and rod bearings out for balancing. it cost me $125 for this service. i didn't even change the stroke on my motor and i had to grind to clear the eagle h beam rods. that part is no big deal, but what i learned from it is the importance of prefitting, i was in assembly stage tourqing every thing as i went when i found the non-clearing rod bolt so i said some bad words, took it apart, did my grinding cleaned it all up again and put it back together to find cylinder 7 did the same thing. dry bearings are pretty easy to keep clean, prelubed ones are grit magnets. i suggest you get all your parts together take them with the block to the machine shop for balancing, honing and or boring and cleaning at minumum. he may be able to clearance the thing for ya pretty cheap while hes at it. around here it costs $95 for torque plate bore and hone, $125 for balance of rotating assy. and $25 for cleaning. oh yeah if you bore you probably will want him to check your deckheight so you can see how your quench is going to work out. if its in the hole more than about .020 you may want to consider decking the block, thats another $75. but its easier to have him check it than take it home, put it on the stand, prefit, find it too low, take it all back apart and haul it all back to the machine shop.
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Old 11-07-2003, 06:39 AM
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R Robin, you should put some more thought into your 58 cc, 2.02 valve heads. Unless you do something exotic, you are looking at something over 11 to 1 compression, puting pump gas out of the question. My 383 has aluminum heads with 64 cc combustion chambers and 10.2 to 1 compression. Need premium pump gas. Before these heads, had 76 cc chambered GM cast iron heads with 9.2 to 1 compression. Still needed premium pump gas. (forged flat top pistons)

Trees
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