383 block selection
 

I have a 350 block from early 90s . none roller . 2 bolt .casting #10054727 ( canda ) block will this block hold up for a 383 stroker build with 10.1 comp

Yes, it could handle it with proper machining and parts selection, but WHY?

A used 4 bolt roller block with std bore is like $200? WELL worth it IMO.

I have not been able to locate another roller block and I didn't want to pull mine out until I had one ready to go back in .. they have sold all the junk iron around my area..the good with the bad .

Well a hydraulic roller cam will do you a lot more good than a stroker crank, so I'd either pull the roller block you have, spend the extra money on a better block, or spend more money on a hydraulic roller conversion kit.

x2. I just swapped my flat tappet cam for a roller cam with less duration and its so much tamer. Better idle quality more vacuum and wow it pulls much harder than the other cam. I am done wasting my time with flat tappet cams.

Thanks guys I just wrapped it up and pushed it to the back corner . the roller cams are nice mine has no lope so they think it is a stock 350 . Thanks guys

You installed that cam from howards right? Which one was it again? How would youdescribe the drivability? Vacuum at idle? Idle speed? Where does it fall off?

180325-08. It has more power down low for sure compared to the other cam I had in it which helps it get moving. I get about 13-15" at 1000rpm but im having issues with ring seal and valve seals so I imagine once I get the motor tight I will retest. It makes driving around town easier. I haven't ran it past 6000rpm yet but it doesn't give up at 6k.

Check Wheeler Performance in Jacksonville, 4 bolt conversion, fully machined roller or not like $795.

How is the valve train noise ?

15"?! Id imagine you can turn that idle down some, maybe 7-800 rpm.

Also, what springs did you use?

Not bad I mean I had some issues with some of my rocker studs backing out causing excess clearance and making noise but once I adjusted them correctly they are fine. Im using the factory hydraulic roller lifters from a vortec engine.

I had it at 750-800 but when I put it in gear the vacuum needle would start jumping around along with the idle and die. Most likely a tuning issue but it has plenty of initial timing so im assuming a little too rich.

Thanks I'm looking at them wright now 799.99

Im still using the edelbrock 5794 springs and retainer and locks from the performer rpm cam I had in it which is why I haven't really been revving it to high. but no audible valve float at 6k. I will be changing to the other valve springs when I pull the engine apart to fix the rings.