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louis165 05-02-2012 07:07 AM

383 block selection
 
I have a 350 block from early 90s . none roller . 2 bolt .casting #10054727 ( canda ) block will this block hold up for a 383 stroker build with 10.1 comp

ap72 05-02-2012 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by louis165
I have a 350 block from early 90s . none roller . 2 bolt .casting #10054727 ( canda ) block will this block hold up for a 383 stroker build with 10.1 comp


Yes, it could handle it with proper machining and parts selection, but WHY?

A used 4 bolt roller block with std bore is like $200? WELL worth it IMO.

louis165 05-02-2012 07:40 AM

I have not been able to locate another roller block and I didn't want to pull mine out until I had one ready to go back in .. they have sold all the junk iron around my area..the good with the bad .

ap72 05-02-2012 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by louis165
I have not been able to locate another roller block and I didn't want to pull mine out until I had one ready to go back in .. they have sold all the junk iron around my area..the good with the bad .


Well a hydraulic roller cam will do you a lot more good than a stroker crank, so I'd either pull the roller block you have, spend the extra money on a better block, or spend more money on a hydraulic roller conversion kit.

zildjian4life218 05-02-2012 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ap72
Well a hydraulic roller cam will do you a lot more good than a stroker crank, so I'd either pull the roller block you have, spend the extra money on a better block, or spend more money on a hydraulic roller conversion kit.

x2. I just swapped my flat tappet cam for a roller cam with less duration and its so much tamer. Better idle quality more vacuum and wow it pulls much harder than the other cam. I am done wasting my time with flat tappet cams.

louis165 05-02-2012 09:06 AM

Thanks guys I just wrapped it up and pushed it to the back corner . the roller cams are nice mine has no lope so they think it is a stock 350 . Thanks guys

ap72 05-02-2012 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
x2. I just swapped my flat tappet cam for a roller cam with less duration and its so much tamer. Better idle quality more vacuum and wow it pulls much harder than the other cam. I am done wasting my time with flat tappet cams.

You installed that cam from howards right? Which one was it again? How would youdescribe the drivability? Vacuum at idle? Idle speed? Where does it fall off?

zildjian4life218 05-02-2012 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ap72
You installed that cam from howards right? Which one was it again? How would youdescribe the drivability? Vacuum at idle? Idle speed? Where does it fall off?

180325-08. It has more power down low for sure compared to the other cam I had in it which helps it get moving. I get about 13-15" at 1000rpm but im having issues with ring seal and valve seals so I imagine once I get the motor tight I will retest. It makes driving around town easier. I haven't ran it past 6000rpm yet but it doesn't give up at 6k.

Richiehd 05-02-2012 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by louis165
I have not been able to locate another roller block and I didn't want to pull mine out until I had one ready to go back in .. they have sold all the junk iron around my area..the good with the bad .

Check Wheeler Performance in Jacksonville, 4 bolt conversion, fully machined roller or not like $795.

louis165 05-02-2012 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
180325-08. It has more power down low for sure compared to the other cam I had in it which helps it get moving. I get about 13-15" at 1000rpm but im having issues with ring seal and valve seals so I imagine once I get the motor tight I will retest. It makes driving around town easier. I haven't ran it past 6000rpm yet but it doesn't give up at 6k.

How is the valve train noise ?

ap72 05-02-2012 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
180325-08. It has more power down low for sure compared to the other cam I had in it which helps it get moving. I get about 13-15" at 1000rpm but im having issues with ring seal and valve seals so I imagine once I get the motor tight I will retest. It makes driving around town easier. I haven't ran it past 6000rpm yet but it doesn't give up at 6k.

15"?! Id imagine you can turn that idle down some, maybe 7-800 rpm.

ap72 05-02-2012 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by louis165
How is the valve train noise ?

Also, what springs did you use?

zildjian4life218 05-02-2012 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by louis165
How is the valve train noise ?

Not bad I mean I had some issues with some of my rocker studs backing out causing excess clearance and making noise but once I adjusted them correctly they are fine. Im using the factory hydraulic roller lifters from a vortec engine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ap72
15"?! Id imagine you can turn that idle down some, maybe 7-800 rpm.

I had it at 750-800 but when I put it in gear the vacuum needle would start jumping around along with the idle and die. Most likely a tuning issue but it has plenty of initial timing so im assuming a little too rich.

louis165 05-02-2012 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richiehd
Check Wheeler Performance in Jacksonville, 4 bolt conversion, fully machined roller or not like $795.

Thanks I'm looking at them wright now 799.99

zildjian4life218 05-02-2012 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ap72
Also, what springs did you use?

Im still using the edelbrock 5794 springs and retainer and locks from the performer rpm cam I had in it which is why I haven't really been revving it to high. but no audible valve float at 6k. I will be changing to the other valve springs when I pull the engine apart to fix the rings.


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