383 build

This is my first engine build and I really dont have a budget. I take all my check each week and buy something for the engine. I want to build a car i can drive on the weekends and take to the strip. I want about 575-600hp at the motor.

This is my first post in this forum. Im building a 383 and I have alot of questions. Here is what I have so far.

Block: 0010 , 30 over fresh from the michine shop.

Heads: Brodix-10 standard 23 degree,2.08-1.6 manley valves,67cc combustion chambers,angle plug,210 intake runners gasket matched to Fel-pro 1206 intake gasket,roller springs 200 lbs @1.860 installed height on the seat good to 640 lift,7/16 screw in studs and guide plates

Pistons: srp flat tops: 138089

Ok now with the questions, my first question is what would be the best crank and rods to use.

2nd: what would be the best cam and size

3rd: Scat vs Eagle, I need a set of rods and a crank. Please recomend the best crank and rods for my app.

4th: Which is better externally or internally balanced

5th: Weiand 7531 : is this a good intake to use with the heads i have

Also could you post part numbers,I think thats it for now.


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what kind of car is it going in?re you running an auto or stickshift?also what compression ratio do you plan to use im assuming going to be near 10.5:1 with flat tops and 67cc heads
4340 rods and crank would be a nice setup

Its going to be in a 78 nova 2door coupe around 3,400lbs maybe lighter. Im going to be running a turbo 350, I was told to run a 4000 stall converter. But waiting till i get the engine built before doing the trany and rearend. the compression will be somewhere bettween 10.5:1-11:1. I plan to order the crank, rods, piston rings and bearings this friday. I really dont want to run nitrous because i heard it will wear the engine out alot faster. Is it possible to get 575-600hp straight motor without nitrous or power adder

then go forged.

it is quite possible... but its not street friendly at all. Not to mention you'll need to rev to clost to 8,000 RPM which is very hard on all of the parts, especially the valvetrain, pistons, crank, and rods... I would shoot more for about 540 HP.... its more drieveable and will last longer.

I would get a
Stroker kit pre balanced forged assembly shoot for 11:1 plus comression ratio,200cc plus heads,and a single plane intake also you might benifet from some large tube headers 1 3/4" primaries,and dual x pipe with 3" exaust,and an 850cfm carb this is the cam I would use XR286R its a solid roller camshaft 12-772-8 is the comp cam part number the dynamic compression ratio with 11:1 and a zero decked block and a .041 head gasket thickness is 7.64 which is good you might be able to get away with premium pump gas but a little race gas mixed would be a decent add on

Ive been told by alot of people that the steel cranks from scat and eagle are good for well over 500hp. I then summit mags it says rated for 500hp max.

this is true but I think the few extra dollars would not hurt for the xtra insurance

eagle vs scat?
h beam vs i beam?
Who makes the best bearings?
also i have srp pistons should i order the rings that they recomend for the piston or what is your opinion

Ive been thinking of going with a eagle 4130 crank, but cant deside on a rod. who on the net has the best price on the 4130 crank? also what rod would be the best choice? I plan to order in the morning.

For the power and RPM you are looking at with a longer stroke you will need 4340 forged components, H beam rods, go with clevite H bearings, and try some gapless rings.

I like scats stuff for the price only reason I go to powerhouse is there up the street from me and I've never had anything bad come from them.

First engine build... I want 600hp... From a 383...

Damn I'm curious to see how this turns out. I'm saying 530HP... That's just off of heads, compression, and intake.

I agree, everybody is like, I want a 600hp street car from a small block chevy that I can occasionally drag race. But in reality if you actually attain that number it will be a drag car that you can only stand to occasionally drive on the street.

Also 500+ HP doesn't come from 10:1 compression, I mean it is possible but you have to have a really well built dyno proven and tuned engine that can turn 8000 RPM to do it.

11.5-13:1 is much more attainable and you will find that Brodix heads are not designed for your average 383. They will be boggy down low (where street cars spend 90% of their time) but really good up high.

If this is your first build I would recommend setting your expectations a little lower and start off with something more basic that you won't be too upset about blowing up. Then when you have it down, sell it and start again.

mine is 10.8-1 afr 195 eliminaters rpm air gap 565 lift cam i know its 500hp or higher and is as street friendly as my 08 silverado pulls hard to 6500 but i daont crank it that high often cause im runnin eagle cast crank and thier 5.7 sir rods speed pro hyper pistons