i allso went through the valley and cleaned the rear oil return hole by making them bigger , also at the front of the block i open up the front holes and made them level to the valley floor. you can see that i also have tapped the oil return holes on the valley floor.
this is a photo of the rods that going in. what i like about this rod is it's a 6 " with 7/16 bolt and stroker cleared. only had to clean up bottom of the bore a little and pan rail was sweet. if you look at the piston you can see it use's a skinner oil ring and the pistons pin don't go all the way in the oil ring landing like ofters do.
next was to fit the rods and piston into the block , i did this with out the rings on the pistons. same as the crank i also checked the rods clearance.
had too do this the old school way with feeler gauge and piston. when doing it this way you have to use the lower bottom of the piston as this is the widest point.
as for piston to valve clearance , yes plenty.
this scat was a balance kit that i got, but i had changed the pistons as the dish in the piston were to big at 19.60cc. when i had it re-balance , only had to remove 36 grams of weight from the crank so not to bad.
now the cam , timing chain was fitted. in this frist photo i found top dead center and then dail the cam in. on the cam the intake center line was at 106 so this is where i dailed the cam too.
i fitted the heads with the head gasket but did not torque down. in this photo i was checking piston to valve cearance , roller rocker sweep and push rod length.
now this is where i got to , the last thing i did was to check the intake manafold for a line-ment. next on my list is too strip back down , paint the block , wait for the under size bearings and start final assembly.
why !!! this is not a project , this is a engine build so this should be under engines . form user's look for info about building engines. this make it hard to find :boxing:
next was to clean up around the pump securing bolt on the rear main and blend it into the discharge hole leading into the block.
in the last photo i clean up entrance and exit holes in the oil filter location. the idea is to flow the oil passages so that the amount of oil pressure lost, as the oil progresses from the pump to the bearing is reduced.
hi every one , now i'm at the point too piant my block. block. what colour should i paint it. red , organe or black. what's the best way to clean the surface of the block before painting. has any one tryed carby cleaner or is there a better way.
what cam are you using with those heads? im putting together a similar motor for my coupe, using AFR 195/65 w comp. porting, and a CompCams roller.....around .560 lift
as for cam it's a xr282hr. gross valve lift is .510 / .520 duration @50 230/236 intake center line 106.0 lobe separation 110.0 and with 1.6 roller rockers which make it 544/555 gross valve lift. which should make around 480-500hp at the flywheel and still be street friendly.
thanks for the good info , had done the hot wash , spray with brake clean to clean the suface, then masked up and now all painted. here are some photos of how it come out.
thanks for the good info , had done the hot wash , spray with brake clean to clean the suface, then masked up and now all painted. here are some photos of how it come out.
Small matter, but use a water pump gasket to mask the area that doesn't need paint. The way it is, you're going to have bare block showing.
Were the main bores checked after installing the studs?
I'm guessing this is a race engine, else the bearing clearance would be fine at a bit under 0.002, at least IMO. I'd rather see you using tools instead of plastigage to measure the oil clearance, though. What pan and oil pump setup you using?
was looking at bearings to replace the ones i have. the part number on the one i have is ms909h which is a std bearing. now my clearces on the crank was to tight so which set do i get is it ms909h1 undersides or ms909hx smaller .
Your build looks good. Only one observation, were the cam bearings installed when you tapped the oil plugs and ground the oil returns? I prefer to do all the fit ups and cutting with old cam bearings then remove them for the final cleaning. Crud tends to collect in the grooves behind them.
ok now thinking about the end play on the crank , have read in a couple off books with different answers for crank end play. some say between .004-.007 and others with .002-.006 , so which is it. when I checked my crank for end play I got .0025 . so is this with in the margin or to tight.
Years ago, I was talking with Joe Mondello on the phone about the end play on a 455 I was building. He told me to hold a block of wood on the crank snout at the front and fram hell out of it with a BFH, then go around back and do the same thing on the rear of the crank. That will set the thrust bearing and everything will be dandy he said. I did and it was.
.0025 is a bit on the tight side but you'll need to check it again with the new bearings anyway so I would hold off judgement until then.
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