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Old 12-16-2009, 11:28 AM
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383 Build

Okay all. I received great advice from some of you about my chevy small block build. I have decided on the following for a big car ('63 Impala) that will not see strip or track duty: Dart SHP .030 over block as the foundation, Scat stroker rotating assembly with cast steel crank (need to know if the compression will be below 10.0-1 for pump gas), Vortec heads, TH350 to replace the Powerglide, & 3.08 rear gear. I'd like some suggestions as to which cam to use. I have a comp cams XE250H to keep it below the Vortec heads' stock valve spring max lift, but have thought about upgrading the springs to accommodate a comp cams XE268H. I also have an Edelbrock 500 cfm carb and Performer Vortec intake that I believe will be enough for cruising. My goal is good low and midrange torque for the street. Also, I believe a stock or maybe a slightly higher stall converter will be fine. You may be asking why I have the small carb, cam, and Performer intake. I originally planned to rebuild the original 283, but backed off after deciding a 383 would make me happier for a little more money. Am I thinking this out right? Thanks, all.

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Old 12-17-2009, 09:14 AM
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Whatever cam you do decide to go with you'll have to match the stall and gear to the cam.

I would recommend this Isky low lift rule cam for what you want to accomplish.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ISK-201264/


I would think since it'll be a cruiser and not really see any high rpms that the stock springs will suffice. Besides, with that small carb you'll have a hard time getting that thing past 4,500 rpm.

The intake will work great for cruising but you might want to think about getting a bigger carb. Using a carb cfm calculator, a 383 @ 85% volumetric efficiency, will pull 499 cfm @ 4,500 rpm. Which I think will be OK for a torquey cruiser. I would think a 600 or 650 cfm carb would be better a choice just incase you ever really wanted to get on it.

A 2,300 - 2,500 stall should do. The 3.08 gear should be OK but I'm thinking you might need a little more gear and it would be more fun with a 3.55 or 3.73 gear.
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Old 12-20-2009, 03:46 PM
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I agree with above.

I would, also suggest you go ahead and upgrade the valve springs. It's cheap insurance.
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Old 12-20-2009, 08:29 PM
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Are you using a new or previously used Dart block? If it's new I wouldn't bore it .030 to start with. Run it with the stock 4.000" bore to start with. .030" overbore isn't going to make a huge difference in power and will shorten the useful life of the block. Because it'll have been bored once already before ever being used.
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Old 12-20-2009, 09:02 PM
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Thanks, all. I am interested in your advice, Blazin' 72. It is a new block and there's plenty of meat in the bores so I thought .030 over would be no big deal. Do you think I should start off with 350 cubes?
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Old 12-20-2009, 09:12 PM
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If you want to stroke it then by all means run the 3.75" stroke. I'm just suggesting that if you don't bore it .030" right off the bat you'll get at least one extra rebuild out of it. New engine blocks are expensive, you want to get as much use out of it as you can.

.030" is only about 6 additional ci. You'd have a 377 instead of a 383.
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