383 build - Page 3 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #31 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2013, 07:39 PM
bjautos7's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 87
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by engineczar View Post
Your build looks good. Only one observation, were the cam bearings installed when you tapped the oil plugs and ground the oil returns? I prefer to do all the fit ups and cutting with old cam bearings then remove them for the final cleaning. Crud tends to collect in the grooves behind them.
no had the old cam bearing in when i did all the detailing to the block. once all prep work and machining was done i had removed and fitted new one's.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #32 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2013, 03:16 AM
bjautos7's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 87
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
ok now thinking about the end play on the crank , have read in a couple off books with different answers for crank end play. some say between .004-.007 and others with .002-.006 , so which is it. when I checked my crank for end play I got .0025 . so is this with in the margin or to tight.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #33 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2013, 05:33 AM
engineczar's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: In Flowbench nirvana
Age: 52
Posts: 1,653
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5
Thanked 48 Times in 44 Posts
.0025 is a bit on the tight side but you'll need to check it again with the new bearings anyway so I would hold off judgement until then.
__________________
BSE Racing Engines
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #34 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2013, 06:00 AM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 597 Times in 546 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by bjautos7 View Post
thanks for the good info , had done the hot wash , spray with brake clean to clean the suface, then masked up and now all painted. here are some photos of how it come out.
Nice build!

Small matter, but use a water pump gasket to mask the area that doesn't need paint. The way it is, you're going to have bare block showing.

Were the main bores checked after installing the studs?

I'm guessing this is a race engine, else the bearing clearance would be fine at a bit under 0.002, at least IMO. I'd rather see you using tools instead of plastigage to measure the oil clearance, though. What pan and oil pump setup you using?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #35 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2013, 03:40 PM
techinspector1's Avatar
Senior Curmudgeon
 
Last wiki edit: DynoSim combinations Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hemet, California, USA
Age: 72
Posts: 12,946
Wiki Edits: 326

Thanks: 760
Thanked 1,012 Times in 848 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by bjautos7 View Post
ok now thinking about the end play on the crank , have read in a couple off books with different answers for crank end play. some say between .004-.007 and others with .002-.006 , so which is it. when I checked my crank for end play I got .0025 . so is this with in the margin or to tight.
Years ago, I was talking with Joe Mondello on the phone about the end play on a 455 I was building. He told me to hold a block of wood on the crank snout at the front and fram hell out of it with a BFH, then go around back and do the same thing on the rear of the crank. That will set the thrust bearing and everything will be dandy he said. I did and it was.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #36 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2013, 03:45 PM
bjautos7's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 87
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
Nice build!

Small matter, but use a water pump gasket to mask the area that doesn't need paint. The way it is, you're going to have bare block showing.

Were the main bores checked after installing the studs?

I'm guessing this is a race engine, else the bearing clearance would be fine at a bit under 0.002, at least IMO. I'd rather see you using tools instead of plastigage to measure the oil clearance, though. What pan and oil pump setup you using?
thanks thats a good tip for using water pump gasket , as for the main bores would of hope so as the mains and studs were fitted for deck plate honing and would off hoped that this would of been checked first before work was done. when i fitted the crank for clearances it did turn over very easy with no issues at all.
this is my frist ever engine build and the plan was for a very strong street engine , saying that i mean 80% street and 20% strip time.
i'm not a pro so i don't have all the tools , a dail bore gauge would of been what i would of used to check oil cearance if i had one. i'm building this in my garage and working with what i have.

as for the oil pan here a link to the one i have and will be using

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su.../model/caprice

and this is the oil pump that i have.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mo...make/chevrolet
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #37 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2013, 04:13 PM
bjautos7's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 87
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Years ago, I was talking with Joe Mondello on the phone about the end play on a 455 I was building. He told me to hold a block of wood on the crank snout at the front and fram hell out of it with a BFH, then go around back and do the same thing on the rear of the crank. That will set the thrust bearing and everything will be dandy he said. I did and it was.
thanks tecinspector1 when i get the new bearing i going to tq then down to 15 ftpd to seat the bearings then back of the bolts and do the same to set the thrust on the rear mains. then check from there.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #38 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2013, 10:25 PM
bjautos7's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 87
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
was talking to my machine shop today and he seems to think that my main bearing clearances will be fine as it not a race motor ,and will spend most of the time on the road. what do others think. should I go with what I have or wait and get the hx bearings.

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #39 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2013, 11:16 AM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 597 Times in 546 Posts
I'd run the oil clearance you have now. I see Summit has a pick up that works w/the pan and oil pump you have: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3620.

The PU is a press fit, you can make a tool to install it unless you want to use a shop. Some guys weld or braze them on. I use locktite and a press fit w/o welding, the choice is yours.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #40 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2013, 02:11 PM
bjautos7's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 87
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
I'd run the oil clearance you have now. I see Summit has a pick up that works w/the pan and oil pump you have: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3620.

The PU is a press fit, you can make a tool to install it unless you want to use a shop. Some guys weld or braze them on. I use locktite and a press fit w/o welding, the choice is yours.
Is i think i will run with the oil clearance i have. when i got my sump i got that pick up at the same time to match the pan. thanks for the info for making my own tool to fit the pick up to the oil pump. i was'nt going to braze the pick up tube to the pump as it has support bracket to bolt to the pump.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #41 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2013, 10:48 PM
1Gary's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: 383 dyno sym
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Roch,NY
Age: 67
Posts: 1,538
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 201
Thanked 156 Times in 142 Posts
Might be coming on this thread too late.My opinion would be to have the crank polished.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #42 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2013, 12:30 AM
bjautos7's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 87
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Gary View Post
Might be coming on this thread too late.My opinion would be to have the crank polished.
thanks Gary , the crank is new and was polished after every thing was balances.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #43 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2013, 03:25 PM
bjautos7's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 87
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
going back to when i fitted the cam in the block with out the chain it turned over freely and easy. after fitting the chain it was a bit harder to turn over so at the time i did'nt think to much of it.


Last edited by bjautos7; 04-12-2013 at 03:52 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #44 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2013, 03:30 PM
bjautos7's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 87
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
sorry wrong photo.


Last edited by bjautos7; 04-12-2013 at 03:57 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #45 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2013, 04:11 PM
bjautos7's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 87
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
when i did the dummy up i founded that the billet timing set from comp cams part number 7136 was really tight fitting , had to use a bolt to pull on to cam shaft noise , then when i striped the block back down this is what i found. the cam bearing still looks to be ok and smooth to touch. now will the chain free up like with its frist run or should i just replace it with a new one.

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
whats better 400 crank or a 383 crank in a 350 sbc when trying to build a 383? onlychevy Hotrodding Basics 14 12-28-2012 07:27 AM
383 build mgr64733930wo Introduce Yourself 2 07-10-2012 03:13 PM
i need a 383 build!! Ruger69 Engine 3 11-09-2011 02:06 PM
383 Build mannyandlily Hotrodding Basics 5 12-20-2009 09:12 PM
383 build reflog Engine 6 11-01-2006 08:28 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:20 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.