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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2013, 01:04 PM
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A harder race bearing against a cast cam isn't a solution.Gear drives are unforgiving.The solution is to not use gear drives........

We had three and because of issues removed all three.Btw-it is recommended not to use dual chain drives on hydro roller cams.To use the larger style of motor cycle chain and sprockets works well.

Vinnie is right with belt drives.Think of the hundred of thousandths of OHV engines out there doing thousands of trouble free miles.

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2013, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Gary View Post
A harder race bearing against a cast cam isn't a solution.Gear drives are unforgiving.The solution is to not use gear drives........

We had three and because of issues removed all three.Btw-it is recommended not to use dual chain drives on hydro roller cams.To use the larger style of motor cycle chain and sprockets works well.

Vinnie is right with belt drives.Think of the hundred of thousandths of OHV engines out there doing thousands of trouble free miles.
Thanks for your input regarding the cam gear drive. But regarding your comment on belt drives: as a tech in the automotive field I see more manufacturers,(i.e. Honda, Hyundai especially. Toyota years ago) moving towards chain driven cams. Just an observation here, not an argument for or against.
Could be the on-board computers can sense a timing lapse and make up for it for the chain driven engines when they start to stretch.
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2013, 03:13 PM
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Could be the on-board computers can sense a timing lapse and make up for it for the chain driven engines when they start to stretch.
no, they cannot "make up" for stretching timing chains.

there are many different engines, some use belts, some use chains, many different kinds of chains, etc.

I like belts for a few reasons- dampen harmonics, and cheaper/easier to replace. They can wear faster though.
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2013, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
no, they cannot "make up" for stretching timing chains.

there are many different engines, some use belts, some use chains, many different kinds of chains, etc.

I like belts for a few reasons- dampen harmonics, and cheaper/easier to replace. They can wear faster though.
Mitsubishi does exactly that, they will set a code when the motor has been pounded on mercilessly and the chain has stretched, it changes cam timing, so it will throw a code for timing chain stretch, and it has to have the stretch measured and the new values inputted. At that point it will accomadate the changes in cam timing. This can actually be done several times before it gets to a point where the ecu can't make the changes to accomadate the stretch. Then its time for a new chain....the risk being once the parameters have been changed enough times people tend to ignore the light and one day you will start it and things touch other things and the dealer makes lots of money lol.
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 07:20 PM
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ok i think that covers timing chains , gears abd belts.
Has been a while since my last post. Have change the main bearing to hx .001 undersize which gave me 2.5 clearances at the mains. This also free up my tight timing chian as well. so after a couple other checks I have started reassemble. here are some photo's









now every thing is free and turning over very nicely. i have should have known better, as i record when i stripped the block it had .001 undersize bearing from factory.
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 07:23 PM
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after this , I fitted the timing cover , pointer , block off plate for fuel pump and the oil pump.

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Old 07-24-2013, 07:25 PM
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before fitting the sump I had to remove the engine from the engine stand to fit the one piece seal and rear frost plugs

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Old 07-24-2013, 07:27 PM
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after fitting oil pump and pick up and checking and was happy with every thing , the sump went on.

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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 07:33 PM
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The head I have chosen for my engine are 195 AFR heads, I don't know much about heads but these a are very nice set. after checking heads , I bolted them on and was very pleased how thing are coming togiver.



next thing was to put in the Hydraulic Roller Lifters and Hardware.



next on the list was to install the pushrods , and the 1.6 roller rockers



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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 07:36 PM
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now the flex plate , balancer , water pump , starter motor , dip stick , engine mounts and oil filter.

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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 07:41 PM
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next on the list was to make temp plates to port match my intake manifold.



found some cool valve covers and the intake manifold is now port matched to the heads and bolted on.

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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 07:43 PM
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now time time to prime the oil pump and to see if there is any oil pressure.



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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 07:48 PM
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now just the finishing touches , carb , fuel log , dizzy , leads e.c.t




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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 07:50 PM
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if all go's well will have hp / tq numbers next week. now what numbers do you think it will make , I say 480hp and -502tq.
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 10:51 PM
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what cam?
I want to guess too,lol.nice job
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