[bobbypantera]

Well, i took my 454 apart yesterday, cam had walked block is trashed so.....

back to the small block chevy

ok i have a 2 bolt main block, and i want to build a 383

im going through speedomotive for the bottom end, the mighty mouse setup

NEW! HIGH NODULAR 3.750 STROKE CRANK
5.7 GM STAGE 1 RODS w/ARP WAVE LOC BOLTS
HYPEREUTECTIC FLAT TOP PISTONS
COMP. RATIO: 58cc = 11.1-1, 64cc = 10.3-1 72cc = 9.5-1, 76cc = 9.1-1

SEALED POWER CAST RING SET
CLEVITE 77 ROD & MAIN BEARINGS

ok i want this to be a street engine, but mixing a lil octane boost in every tank of gas or just doing a mix of 93/100 octane is no big deal, its a weekend car

i have performer rpm air gap intake and a either a holley 670 street avenger or a race prepped 650 double pumper, so what i need is a head and cams combo to round out this small block

oh yeah and i have aroune $1,500 to spend on the heads, cam, and rocker arms... budget is kinda tight... but a grand is going in my shortblock, and thats what i have left over

its going in a 72 nova, 3200lbs, th-350, 2200 stall, and 3.73 gears

any help on putting a good power making combo together would be appreciated

i want the most amount of power i can get for the money, but set goals relistically in the 400 hp and 450 ft. lbs of torque range.....

[bracketeer]

Well, i took my 454 apart yesterday, cam had walked block is trashed

The block can be repaired. Common problem with BBs.

[bobbypantera]

im thinking of brodix track1 heads

SB-Chevy, 221cc Intake, 67cc Combustion Chamber, 1.470'' Dual Spring, 140# @ Seat, .600'' Max Lift, 2.055''/1.600'' valves

and a comp magnum energery cam

Operating Range: 2000-6000 RPM
Duration Advertised: 280° Intake / 280° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 230° Intake / 230° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .480'' Intake / .480'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 110°

or the comp cams xtreme energy 274

Operating Range: 1800-6000 RPM
Duration Advertised: 274° Intake / 286° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 230° Intake / 236° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .490'' Intake / .490'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 110°

good idea bad idea???

[bobbypantera]

yes, the block can be repaired, but id rather not go that path

[TurboS10]

I got my Dart Pro 1 heads assembled off of ebay for $950. I got them from Yoders Performance(yoders 81 on ebay). He owns a machine shop and does the assembly and finish work on the heads. I have been very happy with them and they fit my budget very well....much cheaper than from summitt or jegs.

I would go with the 200cc Pro 1's. They will make very good power and will give you room to grow if you want to do some port work later. The majority of people are going to tell you AFR are the best for the money...which they might be. But they will cost you a bit more and if they dont fit the budget they just dont....that is why I recommend the ebay darts.

I like the summitt cams as well. They have a pretty decent selection for street applications. I am running one of their cams and am very happy with it. It is 230 dur @ .050, 480 lift, 114 lsa. The wide lsa works great for my turbo engine, and would also work well for a street engine to give a nice wide power curve. The comp cams listed above are very similiar to the summit cam as well. I dont like comp cams because of failure problems I have had so I dont recommend them. The grinds are good, but the failure rate is high in my experience.

That should leave just enough money for a set of Summitt full roller rockers. I am running them and I am happy with them as well. Only beef I have is I had to clearance them for the head studs. With bolts they would be fine.

Chris

[bobbypantera]

ive pretty much decided to go with the jegs aluminum 197 heads in the 72cc variety, that gives me a 9.5:1 compression ratio and the 280H cam should make decent power, live on pump gas, and fit within my budget

ordered my bottom end today, so thats set in stone, but everything else is still open to change

[bobbypantera]

dart pro 1's from yoders racing are looking really good right now, about the same price as the jegs pieces with better flow...

[TurboS10]

Originally Posted by bobbypantera

dart pro 1's from yoders racing are looking really good right now, about the same price as the jegs pieces with better flow...

I think that the jegs heads are small Brodix. They are not real good flowing, but not bad.

Chris

[NXS]

The summit cams have that 114 lobe sep in general and are good for a stock build-up or with dish pistons but in an rpm limited 383 with high compression a tighter lobe sep will be needed. this will produce more power in a tighter rpm range with out needing to rev so high and will also keep detonation down.

I'd go with a 550" lift solid with 108-110* of lobe sep for the most power....which is what you want, correct?

[TurboS10]

Power where?? Where you can use it or at the peak? The most common mistake people make is to over cam an engine. The big lift in a roller with a short duration will still have good street manors. A cam with that kind of lift in a flat tappet with be too large for a heavy car with a 2200 RPM stall....basically stock. The 114 lsa with the longer duration will make for good low end torque and still pull up high enough for those 3.73 gears. My 400 easily pulls to 6k. I dont really use the low end with my convertor, but it should be rock solid. You can go down to 110 or so on lsa, but it will still take a little of the low end grunt out. That grunt makes a street car *feel* fast.

Chris

[bobbypantera]

im going to run a LUNATI Voodoo cam

with the dart 200cc pro 1's

Duration at 050 inch Lift: 227 int./233 exh.
Advertised Duration: 268 int./276 exh.
Intake Valve Lift : 0.489
Exhaust Valve Lift : 0.504
110 lsa

and probally move to a coverter in the 2,500 range and switch to a manual valve body... its going to be a stoplight to stoplight street car....

[NXS]

I ran a couple of cams using Virtual Engine Dyno Pro. According to it the 555" lift Solid will make more Tq down low and more HP up high....at least with those heads. Here are the results.