383 build kits? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Hotrodding Basics
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2012, 06:09 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Southern Colorado
Age: 27
Posts: 15
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
383 build kits?

I'm seriously looking into stroking my 350 to a 383 when I get around to redoing my engine. This is a ways off, but I wanted to start my research now.

Can anyone who's familiar with 383 stroker kits recommend one. I'm looking for something mild/occasional strip. A few things I want: 6in rods, 1.6 rollers, internal balance and I want to keep my compression below 11.5:1. A kit seems like the best way to go for me and I'd rather not have to mix and match parts. I like the idea of a kit that's already done that for me.

Also, I'm going to run a tko500 with a posi rear end, any suggestions on gear ratios? i'm leaning towards 3.73 for now.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2012, 08:45 PM
SSedan64's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Macon, GA.
Age: 50
Posts: 6,016
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 46 Times in 46 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Camaro R/S LT View Post
I'm seriously looking into stroking my 350 to a 383 when I get around to redoing my engine. This is a ways off, but I wanted to start my research now.

Can anyone who's familiar with 383 stroker kits recommend one. I'm looking for something mild/occasional strip. A few things I want: 6in rods, 1.6 rollers, internal balance and I want to keep my compression below 11.5:1. A kit seems like the best way to go for me and I'd rather not have to mix and match parts. I like the idea of a kit that's already done that for me.

Also, I'm going to run a tko500 with a posi rear end, any suggestions on gear ratios? i'm leaning towards 3.73 for now.

Scat has good quality Stroker kits. A kit with a Cast Series 9000 Crank, Forged I-Beam Rods & Forged Pistons would be a reliable start.
If you use 5.7" Rods you'll have a much larger Piston selection to choose fromand also keep the Piston Pin out of the Ring area.
For a Pump gas Engine you should stay around 9.5:1 Cr w/Iron Heads and 10.5:1Cr w/Aluminum Heads.

What year Block do you have?
What size Combustion Chambers do your Heads have?
You can narrow the choices down more here.
CHEVROLET SCAT Engine Components Engine Kits & Rotating Assemblies - 383 Actual Engine CID - 5.700 in. Rod Length - Forged aluminum Piston Material - Cast iron Crankshaft Material - SummitRacing.com

Rear Gear etc.. calculators:
Gear Calculator
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to SSedan64 For This Useful Post:
Camaro R/S LT (11-13-2012)
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2012, 09:04 PM
327NUT's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: So. Utah
Age: 67
Posts: 3,263
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 77 Times in 69 Posts
I agree with SS, you don't need 6" rods or 1.6 rockers, you can build a screamer with standard parts, Scat make very good stuff. I would use the Scorpion 1.5 roller rockers and a good cam "kit" (hate that word) roller or flat tappet. All depends on how fat your wallet is. You are starting out the right way though by doing lots of research prior to buying anything.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to 327NUT For This Useful Post:
Camaro R/S LT (11-13-2012)
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2012, 09:25 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Southern Colorado
Age: 27
Posts: 15
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSedan64 View Post
Scat has good quality Stroker kits. A kit with a Cast Series 9000 Crank, Forged I-Beam Rods & Forged Pistons would be a reliable start.
If you use 5.7" Rods you'll have a much larger Piston selection to choose fromand also keep the Piston Pin out of the Ring area.
For a Pump gas Engine you should stay around 9.5:1 Cr w/Iron Heads and 10.5:1Cr w/Aluminum Heads.

What year Block do you have?
What size Combustion Chambers do your Heads have?
You can narrow the choices down more here.
CHEVROLET SCAT Engine Components Engine Kits & Rotating Assemblies - 383 Actual Engine CID - 5.700 in. Rod Length - Forged aluminum Piston Material - Cast iron Crankshaft Material - SummitRacing.com

Rear Gear etc.. calculators:
Gear Calculator

Thats the kind of info I'm looking for...awesome thanks!...

It's a 1976 with 75cc heads...all the internals are original.
I'm also wondering about the rework on the 5.7 rods I know i'd have to grind them down, but what kind of work is involved exactly or would it be better to just buy new 5.7 rods? money is tight
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2012, 09:37 PM
SSedan64's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Macon, GA.
Age: 50
Posts: 6,016
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 46 Times in 46 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Camaro R/S LT View Post
Thats the kind of info I'm looking for...awesome thanks!...

It's a 1976 with 75cc heads...all the internals are original.
I'm also wondering about the rework on the 5.7 rods I know i'd have to grind them down, but what kind of work is involved exactly or would it be better to just buy new 5.7 rods? money is tight

You could reuse your Rods. They'll need to be reconditioned = Checked for straightness & resized to make sure the Bearing surface is round, probably about $8-$10 per Rod.
The Crank/Rods/Pistons/Flexplate will need to be balanced, Externally or Internally.
You can buy a complete Rotating Assembly prebalanced = Crank/Rods/Pistons/Pins/Rings/Bearings/Flexplate.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2012, 10:16 PM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 597 Times in 546 Posts
Also be sure to add a set of ARP rod bolts for the added insurance over the stockers.

A page w/some info on the internal measurement and clearances and general areas of concern when building a 383 SBC stroker can be seen here.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to cobalt327 For This Useful Post:
Camaro R/S LT (11-13-2012)
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2012, 11:48 PM
vinniekq2's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: BC,Canada
Age: 56
Posts: 7,836
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 313
Thanked 750 Times in 721 Posts
I dont think 11.5 CR is what you want.If you are getting a T.K.O. consider the 600 and make sure it has the updated insides to make the 2-3 shift faster. The 2.8 first gear and 3.7 gears will make it jump pretty good. Spend some time putting that beast on a diet ,they are heavy. If you drag race maybe get a little more rear gear and get the optional .68 O/drive instead of .82
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to vinniekq2 For This Useful Post:
Camaro R/S LT (11-13-2012)
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2012, 09:11 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Southern Colorado
Age: 27
Posts: 15
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSedan64 View Post
You could reuse your Rods. They'll need to be reconditioned = Checked for straightness & resized to make sure the Bearing surface is round, probably about $8-$10 per Rod.
The Crank/Rods/Pistons/Flexplate will need to be balanced, Externally or Internally.
You can buy a complete Rotating Assembly prebalanced = Crank/Rods/Pistons/Pins/Rings/Bearings/Flexplate.

I've heard that you should have the assembly balanced even if it's bought prebalanced; true?

With the TKO 600 at the strip, it seems like the gears will be too long on the top end compared to the 500, what kind of quarter mile time difference would I be looking between these 2?

And what mods does it take to drop weight off the 600?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2012, 09:39 AM
vinniekq2's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: BC,Canada
Age: 56
Posts: 7,836
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 313
Thanked 750 Times in 721 Posts
of course check balance,and send in related parts. If you drag race,plan your gears and et before you start. The O/drive makes it "streetable". Ive run gear ratios from 2.7 -5.57,,,what are your intentions?When I was young it was fun street driving with 5.13s and a 4speed,now I use 3.50s and a 5 spd,you decide?
Steeper gears are most notice able when you launch the car.
How quick is this car going to be?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2012, 11:01 AM
my87Z's Avatar
Veteran/Firefighter-EMT-I CRT
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: maryland
Age: 30
Posts: 1,685
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6
Thanked 11 Times in 11 Posts
Most "kits" that you buy from say SCAT or Eagle have "stroker" rods that are already made to clear the cam, cylider wall bottoms and the pan rails. It is still a really good idea to mock the engine up and turn it over slowly to see if there are any problem areas which you can just take a die-grider to those areas of the block.

If you aren't trying to make tons of power, just say in the 430-470hp and 440-480tq range then you would do fine in buying an externally balanced rotating kit with "hyper" pistons instead of forged. I would assume that you are planning on changing the heads as well. Look for a set in the 195-200cc intake runner range: AFR, DART, Brodix are who I would recomend. If you are on a budget then the DART platinum iron heads are the greatest deal for the money IMHO. To run easily run pump gas with a pair of 64cc combustion chamber iron heads you will want to look for a piston with a 15-18cc dish. This will put the compression right in the range of 9.5-9.8:1.

IMHO your rocker ratio choice should depend on whether you going to run a flat tappet cam or a roller cam. If you plan to go cheaper with a flat tappet cam then I would suggest just going with a 1.5 rocker ratio, but if you plan to spend a bit more money (which is WELL worth it) and go with a roller cam then I would go with the 1.6 rocker ratio.

Your gear ratio really be a well thought out choice. The size of your tire, cam you plan to use, use of the vehicle, weight of the vehicle, the last gear in the transmission, and the desired cruising speed are all factors in selecting your rear gears.

The 3.73:1 gears you mentioned would work great in the TKO 600. When you calculate out the 2.87/1.89/1.28/1.00/0.64 gears of the TKO 600 with 3.73, the final drive ratio is almost identical to using a th350 with a set of 4.10:1 gears. When you calculate out the TKO 500 which has 3.27/1.98/1.34/1.00/0.68 with the 3.73 rear gears it comes out to be really close to what a th350 would be with a set of 4.56:1 gears (all done 1-3rd).

but again it all depends on what kind of use this car is going to get and what kind of cam this car is going to get. putting it all together with a set of 28" tall tires the TKO 600 and 3.73's would do great with a cam in the 220-240 @ .050 duration area, which would make for a pretty decent street car with some track use. The TKO 500 and 3.73's would do better with a cam in the 235-250 @ .050 duration area, which this motor would want a bit more compression (Iron= 10:1+ and alm 10.5:1+, which could still be tuned to run fine on pump gas) this would make for more of street/strip car with a bit less street manors. Both are still very do able for the street, you just have to decied how far you want to go with it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to my87Z For This Useful Post:
Camaro R/S LT (11-13-2012)
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2012, 11:33 AM
How fast is fast enough?
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Age: 29
Posts: 9,000
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 17
Thanked 315 Times in 295 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Camaro R/S LT View Post
Thats the kind of info I'm looking for...awesome thanks!...

It's a 1976 with 75cc heads...all the internals are original.
I'm also wondering about the rework on the 5.7 rods I know i'd have to grind them down, but what kind of work is involved exactly or would it be better to just buy new 5.7 rods? money is tight
It would be best to run the 6" rods like you originally planned.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2012, 12:06 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Southern Colorado
Age: 27
Posts: 15
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I will be running this on the street as well, cruising speed at 65(to and from the strip) about 20 min one way so I do need that O/drive gear.

Right I don't want tons of power, my87Z had it right; 430-470hp and 440-480tq range and I very much want a roller cam.

I talked to a friend and he immediately recommended gears in the 5+:1 range with a 5 speed.

As for weight I'll be gutting the car, engine bay and interior trying to drop as much weight as possible; thinking about getting rid of the power steering (racing seats if budget allows.) I'm not too sure about what weighs the most that you can get rid of really, so suggestions are welcome. Power to weight is something very important for sure.

Suspension is a whole other ball field, I'm not really to that yet but I'll be looking into it.

As for tires I'm gona go with a pair of slicks at the track(not sure on the overall size yet) and then just some cheap street tires.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2012, 12:11 PM
techinspector1's Avatar
Senior Curmudgeon
 
Last wiki edit: DynoSim combinations Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hemet, California, USA
Age: 72
Posts: 12,898
Wiki Edits: 326

Thanks: 751
Thanked 985 Times in 831 Posts
The problem in choosing a transmission and a rear gear is getting both ends of the equation to where they will be effective for every day use.

I might use a first gear final drive of 10:1 (also called starting line ratio) and a top gear final drive of 2.90 or numerically lower with a ~28" tire. Multiply the rear gear ratio times the first gear ratio to find the first gear number. For instance, a 3.55 rear gear times a 2.87 first gear would yield a 10.18:1 first gear final drive ratio, assuming a ~28" tire. A taller tire might require a numerically lower rear gear. A shorter tire might require a numerically higher rear gear. The same 3.55 rear gear with a 5th gear of
0.82:1 will yield a top gear final drive ratio of 2.91:1, making all gears useable in everyday driving or for drag strip use. You don't want the cruise ratio too low, numerically, if you plan to use any kind of decent cam timing. For instance, if the cam begins making power at 1600, then you might want to cruise at ~2500 to be "up on the cam" at highway cruise speed. A 2.91 final drive ratio with a ~28" tire will cruise at 72 mph at 2500. The Tremec TCET4618 5-speed fits the bill here, with a torque capacity of 600 ft/lbs and the right gear ratios.
TTC: TREMEC Transmissions
I know what you're thinking and the answer is no. You will never get out of 4th gear on a 1/4 mile drag strip unless you're building a 1,000 hp motor and mounting it in a 2,000 lb car. The average "hot" street driver will post a trap speed of ~115-120 mph in the quarter. With the above combination, you'd be at 120 mph at 4,200 rpm's in 4th gear, so like I said, you'd never get to 5th gear in the quarter mile.

Last edited by techinspector1; 11-13-2012 at 12:30 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to techinspector1 For This Useful Post:
Camaro R/S LT (11-13-2012)
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2012, 12:15 PM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 597 Times in 546 Posts
One easy way to figure what rear gear ratio to run is to estimate what cruising speed rpm you want, then gear for that. The first gear ratio will be fine doing it that way, too. First gear should be in the 10:1 range for good acceleration.

Some calculators to play with.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2012, 12:46 PM
vinniekq2's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: BC,Canada
Age: 56
Posts: 7,836
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 313
Thanked 750 Times in 721 Posts
If you used a 4.56 gear and built an engine that makes power to 6400 rpm and used a 28.5 tall tire...That car could go 120 mph at redline and at 2700 rpm(using .68 O/drive) would be cruising over 70 mph. That an extreme scenario in my opinion. like tech says thats an 11 second car that can cruise to the track.If it spends a lot of time on the track,then buy a trailer for race days,long walk home if something breaks
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Hotrodding Basics posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
383 Stroker Kits kburb Hotrodding Basics 2 12-03-2011 06:44 PM
383 stroker kits?? for a 98 block kennyhammond Engine 7 01-18-2011 02:08 PM
1981 Corvette / 350(383 stroker) kits swdynamic Engine 1 07-09-2007 04:44 PM
PAW 388 or 383 kits, any good rick458 Engine 3 02-12-2005 02:26 PM
383 Stroker Kits Chevy21 Engine 11 12-02-2004 10:38 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:13 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.