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Old 03-01-2010, 10:43 AM
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383 build looking for opinions

alright im looking to build my 1st supercharged engine... well actually it will be my 1st ground up build
id like to run it past you guys to get your opinions, i want it to be streetable but im afraid that my eyes might have gotten a little big during my search...
the car is a 48dodge 2 door coupe that has been shortened about 14in channeled 4in and the roof has been chopped about 4in as well. The frame is from a 1984 Oldsmobile cutlass (shortened to fit)
this is what I've put together thus far:
id like to build a Chevy 383
callies crankshaft and forged internals
trick flow 445hp super 23 top end kit
cam specs 246/254 degree duration at .050, .558/.558 in. lift
heads are a 195cc intake and a 62cc combustion chamber
Magnuson 122 high-helix rotor supercharger
not sure on a what carb yet
the build is a copy of this article except id like mine to be a 383
im also curious as to how their engine can be built with a summit kit (cast steel crankshaft, and hypereutectic pistons) and be able to pull those sort of numbers... I ask because I would not mind saving a few bucks

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Old 03-01-2010, 10:55 AM
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What static compressionare you targeting? Its not a bad build, but does i fit exactly what you wantor would you change something else? Now is the time to figure that out.

BTW I'm sure they used every trick in the book to get those dyno numbers. Don't be suprised if your RWHP even with the larger stroke is about 20% lower.
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Old 03-01-2010, 11:19 AM
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That's about a 25-30% torque increase. Below 20% HP increase. Totally believable, IMHO.

The 468/443 NA numbers look a bit high, especially the HP, but who knows. They don't mention if the dyno tests were done on the same dyno- plenty of room for 'error'.

I do not run a blower engine, so take the following w/a grain of salt.

If you want to use a single carb, the 850 range set-up for a blower should get you by. I see the test used a 950, so that should be a guideline.

I don't know about the "kit" approach when doing a blower like you're talking about. I'd rather spec the cam and heads for the application, exactly, instead of buying a NA combo and adding a blower into the mix.

AFA cast pistons, they will handle that blower. But there's ZERO room for error. One slip-up or failure at the wrong time and those slugs will be toast.

Last edited by cobalt327; 03-01-2010 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 03-01-2010, 11:23 AM
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I was thinking my compression should be right around 9:1
I'm open for ideas of change... id like to produce as much power as I can while having good behavior on the street... id like be at the 500hp range and a supercharger is kinda my dream
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Old 03-01-2010, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 48Frankin
id like be at the 500hp range and a supercharger is kinda my dream
Nothing wrong w/that! I always wanted a Corvette... lol

There are guys here and elsewhere that will be glad to get into the specifics w/you on the build.

What you can do in the meantime, is research the hell out of it- google, forums, manufacturer's literature, there are books on the subject as well (I do not know titles to recommend ).

Good luck.
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Old 03-01-2010, 01:52 PM
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The higher the static compression ratio you use, the more you limit boost that you can run on pump gas. 8:1 for 8 psi is a rule of thumb for good pump gas operation. Many builders have used more boost than this, but like I'm saying, this is a rule of thumb from the engineers at Blower Drive Service.

Figuring CFM requirements are as follows:
Figure the naturally aspirated requirements first. Cubic inches times RPM's divided by 3456 = naturally aspirated airflow at 100% volumetric efficiency.
For instance, 383 X 6500 / 3456 = 720 CFM.

To determine CFM required with a blower on the same motor, use this formula to determine the multiplying factor to use with the naturally aspirated figure.
(Boost divided by 14.7 + 1)
For instance, (8 divided by 14.7 + 1)
(0.544 + 1)
(1.544)
Now, use this 1.544 multiplying factor with the original naturally aspirated figure of 720 to find the CFM required to feed a 383 at 6500 with 8 lbs of boost.....
720 times 1.544 = 1,111 CFM.

Here is a good list of general recommendations......
http://www.blowerdriveservice.com/recommend.php
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Old 03-02-2010, 05:35 PM
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you mean I gotta do some math???
J/K Thank you

well guys a pulled the trigger! just got home from the machine shop. They have ordered my Callies rotating assembly and are going to prep my block. I also figured id have them assemble my short block I am excited
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Old 03-02-2010, 06:57 PM
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This should be a nice build. You will find that the blower will tame the cam down considerably due to the far better fuel distribution and vaporization.

You will most likely need a 3000 converter assuming you are using an auto. This will keep the motor in the torque band and prevent lugging it.

Use plenty of carb. I don't think you can really over carb a blower. I have 2- 750 dp on my 355. I've never heard of a 'bog' due to over carb with a blower. Boost is nearly instant.

Seriously look at an AFR gage either a hang on one or permanently mounted. It will really help with tuning.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/
Summit has this stuff too.

I would guess the car will be over 3000 lbs so it will get a much needed kick in the pants. If you haven't had experience with this stuff you should stop over at Target and get a 3 pack of shorts just in case. hahah
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Old 03-02-2010, 09:55 PM
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I can say that im 100% sure that I have never been in a car thats going to have this much "kick" but i've been close kinda...
1 being a 67 mustang with about 100 less hp and atleast 150 less tq and i never got to drive it
2 being a blown 454 67 camaro but it maybe had 1-2 psi (it was all for show)
3 being a c5 corvette which was my toy last year

so needless to say I'm stoked to have my skull plastered to my headrest

for a carb I was thinking something in the 950 range but sounds like I should go bigger?
thanks for your help guys!
wish this site had build forums instead of journals I like getting feedback!

o what about headers??? ive got all sorts of room for just about anything
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Old 03-02-2010, 11:35 PM
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Headers?? Get the biggest tubes you can. Try and get coated headers. Jet Hot is my favorite. It will keep the area a bit cooler. 3 inch exhaust. Copper gaskets all around. There is no tuning on blown motors. Mufflers are up to you. Anything will be louder than NA. I use some Summit turbo mufflers. They seem ok so far. The trooper didn't think they were too loud.

Here is my rod right before it went to the paint shop.
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Old 03-03-2010, 04:33 PM
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DANG! I bought some 40 series flowmasters with a 2.5 in and out... I guess im just going to have to spend more money!!!

so then for headers I could use anything as long as it flowed? could I just weld a 3-4in pipe to a header flange?

also I imagine I will want to have a high volume water and oil pump? Could I get away with a stock water pump? (reason I ask is because I have 2 of them) trying to save what I can

and bentwings when you say the blower will tame the cam down does that mean I can run a bigger then norm cam?
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:09 PM
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Those 40's will be nice. I prefer the 3 in pipe as it doesn't 'rap' as much. You can always put an X or 'H ' pipe in. they seem to break up the harshness. If you finish with a couple feet of 4 in straight it will be like rolling thunder.haha

I use block huggers. Try and get 1 3/4 tubes. I had to cut the 2 1/2 collector off and merge in a 3 inch one. I'll try and get a picture tomorrow. It was a lot of work however. I will probably make a fixture and build some 2 inch BH's with 3 in collector this summer. You could just use a 2 1/2 to 3 inch adaptor I guess but it will be somewhat of a choke point.

I needed to use a short WP so I just got a hotrod polished aluminum one. It is supposed to be high volume. I still run 195-210 the same as it did NA. Most of the blower kits require a short pump. If you can use a stock fan and shroud it will be best but most have to use a big electric fan with a big radiator and shroud. don't skimp. i've only seen one but there are good reports of using Tarus double electric fans. All electrics suck a lot of current.

I think you can say that the blower will 'tame ' the cam down for lack of better terminology. It churns up the mixture very well and warms it some so you maintain very high vapor content as opposed to liquid dribbles in the manifold. I don't see any change in vacuum at idle. I still get 12inches but off idle is where I really see it. Cruise vac get up to 16-17. That is a big help at low rpm. I have little hole in the mixture that I'll get into later after the car is back togher. With a 3000 converter I hardly ever see less than 2000 except just off idle. As soon as you even touch the throttle it goes up to 2500-3000. Throttle response is lightening fast. You really have to be careful or you will be laying rubber every time you step on it.

I don't think you will get quite the hit with a single carb but it will be very quick. Much more so than NA.
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Old 03-07-2010, 10:50 PM
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Here are couple pictures of how I modified my headers. I cut the 2 1/2 inch collector off and added a 3 inch one. I had to blend in a couple pipes with patch pieces. Lots of work. I also 'clocked' the flanges so they clear the starter on the right and the steering on the left. I use annealed solid copper gaskets all around. They seem to be the only thing that work with the blower heat.
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Old 03-08-2010, 05:08 PM
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those look awesome! nice work!
btw I changed my build a bit... still the same blower but i've changed everything else...
I was looking at these Brodix heads link
and this comp cams (284/305 507/525) link
any opinions??? i've never matched a set together so this could be way off
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