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Old 06-13-2010, 02:08 PM
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383 Build Questions

Hello all 'rodders.
>Boy, do I have questions!! I thought building a 383 stroker was going to be easy as dropping a 400 crank in a 4-bolt 350 block. But after reading some posts here it looks like a lot of work.
>What I need first is a Budget-Minded approach to the build, I don't want to break the bank! And a good reputable shop in the Phoenix area to do some of the Machine work. I see some of you are in my area.
>What I have to start with is a 80-85 4-bolt 350 block and pistons, I have casting numbers to post if needed.
>This will be my First Ground-up build, I have done a lot of shadetree work like swapping heads, timing chain sets and the more simple stuff. I am Married so the Budget-Minded thing is very important, you guys can relate.
>Thanks for any info and help

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Old 06-13-2010, 02:48 PM
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the pistons that you already have could pose the biggest problem, as if they are for a 350 then the compression height on them is around 1.540-1.560" and the compression height you will need for a 383 is 1.425-1.440. you have to remember that since you are adding .25" stroke that and still using the same size rods that you will have to use a piston with a shorter compression height.

what is the pn# of the pistons, or just tell us the specs that came with them, that might be easier as it will keep us from having to look them up. the main cost behind going with a 383 us that unless you buy a stroker kit then the rods will have to be clearanced in order to not hit the cam, or you will have to use a small base circle cam, and then you may have to clearance the pan rail, and the bottom of the cylinder bores for the rods. i bought a stroker kit for mine and the only thing i had to clearnace was the bottom of the cylinder bores, and i used a regular base circle cam.

if you have a die grinder you could do the clearance work to the block your self as this does not have to be supper precise but i would leave clearancing the rods to a machinest.

typically building a 383 only cost about 300-400 more than building a 350 and if you build it right then you can expect about 10% more hp and about 15% more tq, and that is about the cheapest way to gain that much power. but you have to build it right, as the same cam and heads on a 383 will not act the same as they would in a 350, you will need to go will more duration on the cam, and a larger intake runner in order to get the 383 to run similar to the 350. (RPM wise, not power wise) if you dont understand this then jusst then me know and i can go further in depth about it
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Old 06-13-2010, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERacerX
Hello all 'rodders.
>Boy, do I have questions!! I thought building a 383 stroker was going to be easy as dropping a 400 crank in a 4-bolt 350 block. But after reading some posts here it looks like a lot of work.
>What I need first is a Budget-Minded approach to the build, I don't want to break the bank! And a good reputable shop in the Phoenix area to do some of the Machine work. I see some of you are in my area.
>What I have to start with is a 80-85 4-bolt 350 block and pistons, I have casting numbers to post if needed.
>This will be my First Ground-up build, I have done a lot of shadetree work like swapping heads, timing chain sets and the more simple stuff. I am Married so the Budget-Minded thing is very important, you guys can relate.
>Thanks for any info and help
As far as the crank, there are a couple of ways to go. If you use an OEM 400 crank, the main bearing journals must be turned down from 2.650" to 2.450" so the crank will fit into the 350 block's main saddles. The 400 motor was externally balanced, so you will have to use the 400 damper/balancer and the 400 flexplate with eccentric weight pad.

If you opt for an aftermarket crank, you can choose either internal or external balancing. One of the most popular cranks is the Scat 9000 series cast STEEL crank, combined with the Scat 5.7" I-beam forged Pro Stock rods. You can order the crank lightened and the rods already modified for camshaft lobe clearance. Usually, there will be no interference at the bottom of the cylinder bores with this combo, but the block may require some simple clearancing at the pan rail for the big end of the rods. Some fellows use the longer 6.0 rods in the 383 build. I don't care for them because Iskenderian says the longer rod crap is voodoo and also because I don't like the way the shorter piston compression distance puts the wrist pin up into the oil ring land. The 5.7 rod puts the pin below the land and that's where it needs to be in my opinion.

While I wouldn't use cast pistons for this type of built, I would use cast hypereutectic pistons such as those offered by Keith Black. Depending on the cylinder heads you use, you will most likely have to use a dished piston and KB makes theirs with a D-shaped cup so that there is a nice flat area on the crown of the piston to mate up with the underside of the cylinder head to generate a good squish across the combustion chamber. Of course, forged pistons are an option, depending on your budget. They are the best pistons you can use from a break-proof standpoint and also will stand detonation better than a cast or cast hyper piston in the event you run into a bad load of fuel.

I'm just skippin' over a few points to consider and trying to give you an idea of what's ahead.
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Old 06-13-2010, 06:36 PM
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Thanks to you all

thanks for the info so far guys. As for heads I want to use a pair of aluminum LT1 style 202's with centerbolt valve covers and angle plugs that I already have, just need to rebuild them.
(my87z)--the pistons are stock 350's already in the block.
If I could get part #'s for pistons and crank, that would be great.
Thanks again for all your help so far.
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Old 06-14-2010, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERacerX
thanks for the info so far guys. As for heads I want to use a pair of aluminum LT1 style 202's with centerbolt valve covers and angle plugs that I already have, just need to rebuild them.
(my87z)--the pistons are stock 350's already in the block.
If I could get part #'s for pistons and crank, that would be great.
Thanks again for all your help so far.

unless this is a 92'-97' gen II sbc LT block then those LT heads wont work on them, as they are a reverse coolant flow head, and can only be put on LT motors. in order to build the 383 you will have to sell the 350 pistons, you just wont be able to use them with a 3.75" crank
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Old 06-14-2010, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my87Z
unless this is a 92'-97' gen II sbc LT block then those LT heads wont work on them, as they are a reverse coolant flow head, and can only be put on LT motors. in order to build the 383 you will have to sell the 350 pistons, you just wont be able to use them with a 3.75" crank
Is this why I blew a head gasket and burnt valves? I had installed them on my 78 block and had this trouble. But, I am not sure that they are LT heads. They have angle plugs and centerbolt valve covers. I will try to find casting #'s to post.
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Old 06-14-2010, 06:47 PM
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Head casting #10088113 What are they or where would I find out?
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Old 06-14-2010, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERacerX
Head casting #10088113 What are they or where would I find out?
GM ZZ4 Cast # 10088113 Part # 1255646
Intake Valve 1.94
Exhaust Valve 1.50
Intake Runner 163cc
Exhaust Runner 60cc
Max. Valve Lift
Combustion Chamber 58cc

GM ZZ4 Cast # 10088113 Part # 1255646
0.050 I30.18 E22.78
0.100 I58.23 E47.33
0.200 I116.60 E94.01
0.300 I158.36 E126.00
0.400 I185.00 E144.96
0.500 I193.14 E162.18
Source:
GM High Tech Performance Magazine September 2000
See: http://www.herningg.com/projects/350heads.html

Aluminum SBC Heads # 10088113 vette

Aluminum Corvette heads on SB 400

GM aluminum head specs

and tons of other articles...
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&source=...1974faf5e3db50
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